Necessary tools to work on your FJ or Tracer

[Wingnut 11]

You know, I think you're right. I was thinking (not too deeply) that with upper part of the cartridge exposed I could just grab it with a wrench on some flat and crank off the cartridge bottom bolt ... buuut the more I understand the design, the upper part of the assembly 'floats' in the lower half and could just spin on it's own. One Y'allTube video showed the guy just driver impacted that bolt off and removing the cartridge, no cartridge restraining tool in sight. But, in the story of MY life,  there's at least a 50% chance that bolt and bottom cartridge assy could be like penguins, married for life, with thread lock.

(*sigh*) ordering the spring compression tool ... or making one. The Ohlins don't need such a tool on their side but, I gotta get the old one out cleanly.

Really? 60 beans for a tube with notches in it? Let me have a large coffee and a few minutes at the bench to see if I can duplicate that puppy. I made the damper pull up extension with a $2 nut from the hardware and a rod I had lying around. Beats $30. Made an oil level tool like the Motion Pro with bench bin surplus.

The purchase of the NIX 30's with springs was hit so I'm taking it back where I can.

Edited January 10 by Wingnut

[piotrek 2,026]

1 hour ago, Wingnut said:

(*sigh*) ordering the spring compression tool ... or making one. The Ohlins don't need such a tool on their side but, I gotta get the old one out cleanly.

Really? 60 beans for a tube with notches in it? Let me have a large coffee and a few minutes at the bench to see if I can duplicate that puppy.

You should not need the tool to remove the cartridge. The tool comes in very handy when re-assembling things, but you should be able to just use an impact driver to remove. Keep the assembly intact and that should help keep the cartridge from spinning. Once you dump the oil, screw the cap back on the tube and give the bottom bolt a go with a driver. If you happen to be super unlucky... then rig stuff up. I made the tool from EMT for re-assembly, but managed to remove the cartridge bolt without fuss.

@betoney made a good point with the fork seals/bushings... might be a good time to do these while you're in there, if it's time. Seal driver is handy, and you can also make one if you want.

Edited January 11 by piotrek

[Wingnut 11]

Re: seals and bushings, the bike has 1225 miles on it, bought it with 950. It's been garaged it's whole life. I'll clean 'em and grease the tube slightly for stiction:

but I'm sure they're in pretty good shape.

Edited January 12 by Wingnut