norcal616 Posted January 6, 2019 Share Posted January 6, 2019 I would do a "hard reset" of the ECU...might have some bad lingering values floating around... So the ECU might be using values prior to the repair/service or mod that was done... It would be another good idea to check your current sensor values against the service manual since some got unplugged and moved around Check hoses for proper placement-might have one or two switched up...it's possible debris is fuel rail/injectors since it was "loosened up?" And resulted in a split o-ring... Has a TB synch been done? 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 1 hour ago, justplainbill said: Anything is possible, but I didn't even know what a jpb is (looked it up), so I may hold both the Electronically Illiterate and Online Chatting Lingo Ignoramus championship belts. 😀 I think Worsmith mean jpb as in JustPlainBill '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wordsmith Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 4 hours ago, justplainbill said: Anything is possible, but I didn't even know what a jpb is (looked it up), so I may hold both the Electronically Illiterate and Online Chatting Lingo Ignoramus championship belts. 😀 jpb is my lazy way of referring to justplainbill. Sorry if I offend! You must now hand back the Online Chatting Lingo Ignoramus (OCLI) championship belt, and I have a firm grip on the Electronically Illiterate (EI) one... Riding a fully-farkled 2019 MT-09 Tracer 900 GT from my bayside home in South East Queensland, Australia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justplainbill Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 3 hours ago, koth442 said: I think Worsmith mean jpb as in JustPlainBill Good call. Didn't even cross my mind... jpb was defined in an Urban Dictionary as "just playing bitch" -- meaning the preceding remark was made in a playful way. And that's how I took it. So now someone has to explain to me what a hard reset of the ECU entails? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksta43 Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 I'm going to go ahead and get the valve clearances back in spec then sync the TBs and see where we stand after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal616 Posted January 10, 2019 Share Posted January 10, 2019 Hard reset of the ECU will put the ECU back to the original values...no long/short term values it learned over time are being reused such as fuel/ign trims... It's also possible the AIS system is faulty, broken ign coils, faulty spark plugs, clogged air filter, faulty crank sensor, faulty o2 sensor...wrong sized or material used for replacement o-ring??? 2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp 2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted January 19, 2019 Share Posted January 19, 2019 There's lots of possibilities here... Nic - sorry to hear that not much has changed with the running condition. Let's rewind for a second: When you checked compression this latest time, how did the spark plugs look? Black? What changes/mods have you performed to the bike since new? Specifically have the TPS/APS settings been adjusted? Have you installed anything to "trick" the ECM into being in closed loop mode, ie O2 optimizer or another add-on that interrupts the O2 sensor wiring? (Just so you don't take this the wrong way, I'm looking for information... not finger pointing). Have you checked codes again? Is the FI light illuminated? RE: "Hard reset" of the ECM, our bikes don't have a sophisticated enough computer similar to automotive ECM's... I think the only thing the ECM compensates for (historically speaking) is a "learned idle" value. This IS NOT accessible via the DIAG menu if I remember correctly (IIRC), and can only be checked/reset with dealer software. Generally this value increases (from 0 standard to either 1 or 2) because of a carbon build-up in the Throttle Bodies. There's a service bulletin (not warranty) available from Yamaha about this symptom and it may not pertain in your situation, Nic. Only other thing I can think of is are you POSITIVE that the cam timing is correct? it's easy to slip out of time on this engine when re-assembling, and it will cause the EXACT symptoms that you are experiencing, right down to lower compression numbers due to TOO MUCH fuel being injected at the wrong time and it not being combusted completely and/or properly. This causes the rings to not seal as well until the crap gets burned out of there, meaning a lower compression reading. I believe another forum member had a timing issue some time ago. "Arm chair" DX is hard, but if you keep us posted, we can keep throwing ideas at you before you bite the bullet and take it in. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksta43 Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 On 1/19/2019 at 12:31 PM, skipperT said: There's lots of possibilities here... Nic - sorry to hear that not much has changed with the running condition. Let's rewind for a second: When you checked compression this latest time, how did the spark plugs look? Black? What changes/mods have you performed to the bike since new? Specifically have the TPS/APS settings been adjusted? Have you installed anything to "trick" the ECM into being in closed loop mode, ie O2 optimizer or another add-on that interrupts the O2 sensor wiring? (Just so you don't take this the wrong way, I'm looking for information... not finger pointing). Have you checked codes again? Is the FI light illuminated? RE: "Hard reset" of the ECM, our bikes don't have a sophisticated enough computer similar to automotive ECM's... I think the only thing the ECM compensates for (historically speaking) is a "learned idle" value. This IS NOT accessible via the DIAG menu if I remember correctly (IIRC), and can only be checked/reset with dealer software. Generally this value increases (from 0 standard to either 1 or 2) because of a carbon build-up in the Throttle Bodies. There's a service bulletin (not warranty) available from Yamaha about this symptom and it may not pertain in your situation, Nic. Only other thing I can think of is are you POSITIVE that the cam timing is correct? it's easy to slip out of time on this engine when re-assembling, and it will cause the EXACT symptoms that you are experiencing, right down to lower compression numbers due to TOO MUCH fuel being injected at the wrong time and it not being combusted completely and/or properly. This causes the rings to not seal as well until the crap gets burned out of there, meaning a lower compression reading. I believe another forum member had a timing issue some time ago. "Arm chair" DX is hard, but if you keep us posted, we can keep throwing ideas at you before you bite the bullet and take it in. -Skip The bike is bone stock just like it left the factory. I have a hard time believing that I have a carbon buildup issue given the low miles of the bike. All the timing marks were exactly where they should be. I haven't adjusted the valves yet so there was no reassembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 On 1/5/2019 at 3:17 PM, koth442 said: That is strange... Kind of makes me think fueling or timing (spark plug timing) issue. Does anybody know where the crankshaft position sensor is? Has that been looked at? Have you taken the stator cover off and had a look in there? Pickup coil is under the RH Side cover. It will set off a code 12 if it is faulty. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 2 hours ago, nicksta43 said: The bike is bone stock just like it left the factory. I have a hard time believing that I have a carbon buildup issue given the low miles of the bike. All the timing marks were exactly where they should be. I haven't adjusted the valves yet so there was no reassembly. In the latest video you posted, your complaint is that the idle seems a bit low when the engine first catches after restarting? before it settles in? Mine does the same thing. I think that's a characteristic of the bike. The only thing i noticed in your video is that the idle "hangs" just after you rev'ed it, anotherwords it hovers at 2500 RPM or whatever before it settles to an idle again. Is THIS the running condition you are concerned with? Or is it that when you were on the test ride, that the bike wouldn't pull under normal acceleration and that you had to feather the throttle in 6th to get it to accelerate through? I'm trying to narrow down what your complaint is... RE carbon build up: I've torn down engines with less than 10 hours of run time on them, and there was carbon all over the dome of the piston. Believe what you want, I've seen it with my own eyes. The reason I asked is due to the "learned" value in the ECM, which could theoretically cause an uneven or "hunting" idle condition because the amount of air entering the throttle bodies isn't what the ECM is expecting based on TPS and Intake Air Pressure sensor (x2) values. RE compression test: what kind of gauge are you using? can you borrow another one to confirm you readings of 70 lbs compression? Because your bike starts too easily for that low of a number IMHO. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Any updates on this situation @nicksta43? '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksta43 Posted March 5, 2019 Author Share Posted March 5, 2019 10 hours ago, duhs10 said: Any updates on this situation @nicksta43? I just can't seem to get motivated to work on it. I did just get new Yamaha o-rings and seals in the mail today for the fuel injectors. Since the one I replaced was definitely a different material than the Yamaha ones. I'll just replace all of them with new parts. Maybe I'll get lucky and that will clear it up. It sure acts to me like an air/fuel ratio problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 5 hours ago, nicksta43 said: I just can't seem to get motivated to work on it. I did just get new Yamaha o-rings and seals in the mail today for the fuel injectors. Since the one I replaced was definitely a different material than the Yamaha ones. I'll just replace all of them with new parts. Maybe I'll get lucky and that will clear it up. It sure acts to me like an air/fuel ratio problem. I feel you on the motivation. Still cant see how it's anything but a bad tensioner that caused the bike to run out of timing. Who knows though. Hope you get her running soon. I will check in again if we haven't heard from you in a while. '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksta43 Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 I put new factory fuel injector o-rings and seals in last weekend to replace the cheap ones installed after I damaged the original ones while messing with it earlier. Rode it 30 miles Sunday and it's still not right. It'll hang revs for about ten seconds or so then drop to a low idle before clearing up. It still falls on it's face when given throttle under load but it revs clean through the RPM range when accelerating from a stop up through the gears with no noticeable loss in power. The exhaust stinks. I can't tell if it's lean or rich but it sure acts like the fueling is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 On 3/13/2019 at 6:00 PM, nicksta43 said: I put new factory fuel injector o-rings and seals in last weekend to replace the cheap ones installed after I damaged the original ones while messing with it earlier. Rode it 30 miles Sunday and it's still not right. It'll hang revs for about ten seconds or so then drop to a low idle before clearing up. It still falls on it's face when given throttle under load but it revs clean through the RPM range when accelerating from a stop up through the gears with no noticeable loss in power. The exhaust stinks. I can't tell if it's lean or rich but it sure acts like the fueling is off. Bummer. So it's still not 100% Any codes? Did you check the throttle bodies to be sure that all the caps are in place which cover the sync ports? Are all the vacuum hoses running to the AIS pump, Air intake pressure sensors (2), etc all connected? If you stick your head close to the airbox with the engine idling, do you hear any hissing or abnormal sounds? -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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