koth442 Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 Get a saw-zaw and cut off those other two cylinders and have yourself a new thumper Bad joke I know. Really sorry to hear this, hopefully it's some bad carbon build up and you don't need to pull cases. Best of luck. '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksta43 Posted November 4, 2018 Author Share Posted November 4, 2018 So I went to re-do the leak down test today and couldn't get the tester to work properly. I think the regulator on the tester failed. Pushing on it caused the readings to be all over the place. Yesterday's tests are suspect now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 So I went to re-do the leak down test today and couldn't get the tester to work properly. I think the regulator on the tester failed. Pushing on it caused the readings to be all over the place. Yesterday's tests are suspect now. Fingers crossed for ya! '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainscarlet Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 I'm going to double check the valves this morning. My feeler gauge set only goes in .05mm increments and the thinnest I have is .10mm. For the exhaust valves .25mm wouldn't go but .20mm was loose except for #3 which the .30 gauge felt about right. The intake the .10mm wouldn't go on #1 and #2 but did on #3 on which the .15mm felt about right. I verified each cyl was at TDC on the compression stroke prior to running the leakdown test. I made sure the lobes were facing away from each other and stuck a long screwdriver in the sparkplug hole to verify TDC. I also rotated the engine one complete rotation by hand while testing cyl #3 just to be sure that it was completely closed. It was interesting to be able to see the intake and exhaust valves open and close on the gauge but disappointing in the final numbers. Ok well according to your results your somewhere between 0.20 and 0.25 on two cylinders on the exhaust side. I would say that's acceptable given that spec is 0.26 to 0.30, ok it's not spec but it's not far off and above 0.20. Intake valves should be between 0.11 and 0.20 so they are a little tight it would seem. This might be the cause of your problem. Before doing anything else I would suggest getting all your valves in spec and trying to run the bike. I saw from your later post that your compression test equipment now seems to be suspect. Like I said I'd get your valves in spec first and have another go at firing her up. CS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainscarlet Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 It'd be worthwhile checking the tensioner before firing the bike IMO, and at least resetting it per the manual. A visual of the chain inside the CP3 cover would also be a good idea (just reuse the gasket for now). Extra couple of steps before throwing down the cards. This just ties it back to the racket he'd heard before taking it to the shop. Good point, I'd forgotten that the CCT was suspected to be the original culprit in all of this. CS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justplainbill Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 We've all been focused on the cam timing chain, tensioner and related parts, but it's possible the original noise came from the clutch. In fact, since the engine manually turns over easily and the cam timing is correctly set, I'm wondering if the valve train is involved at all. The dealer tech did not start the engine (whether he tried and it didn't start or not is uncertain) and Nicksta43 said there was no reason for it not to start (noisy or not). So there is no definite diagnosis right now, except maybe tight valves. (I'm not buying carbon build up on an engine with 10K miles. Maybe 110K.) So, as long as we're encouraging Nicksta43 to take one step at a time, I'd like to suggest removing the engine clutch cover to check a loose clutch basket and to see if there are marks from the clutch plate or screws rubbing inside the cover. If parts have been rubbing for even a few seconds, the signs on both surfaces will be plain. Whether or not rubbing has occurred, try to push/pull the clutch housing in and out (toward and away from the engine) to see if there is any movement. There should be none. It wont take long and if the gasket comes away intact, it might not even require a new gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pieyed07 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 We've all been focused on the cam timing chain, tensioner and related parts, but it's possible the original noise came from the clutch. In fact, since the engine manually turns over easily and the cam timing is correctly set, I'm wondering if the valve train is involved at all. The dealer tech did not start the engine (whether he tried and it didn't start or not is uncertain) and Nicksta43 said there was no reason for it not to start (noisy or not). So there is no definite diagnosis right now, except maybe tight valves. (I'm not buying carbon build up on an engine with 10K miles. Maybe 110K.) So, as long as we're encouraging Nicksta43 to take one step at a time, I'd like to suggest removing the engine clutch cover to check a loose clutch basket and to see if there are marks from the clutch plate or screws rubbing inside the cover. If parts have been rubbing for even a few seconds, the signs on both surfaces will be plain. Whether or not rubbing has occurred, try to push/pull the clutch housing in and out (toward and away from the engine) to see if there is any movement. There should be none. It wont take long and if the gasket comes away intact, it might not even require a new gasket. This is very good advice and it Free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksta43 Posted November 6, 2018 Author Share Posted November 6, 2018 I can certainly take a look at it. I'll have to wait until this weekend to replace the air regulator on my leak down tester so nothing much is going to happen in the mean time anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilanr1 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Hi , what is your leak tester ? how do you use it ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koth442 Posted November 6, 2018 Share Posted November 6, 2018 Hi , what is your leak tester ? how do you use it ? Some light reading to answer your question https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leak-down_tester https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/car-maintenance-archive/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test '15 FJ09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJ29ER Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Tight valves can cause the valve face to not seat completely which could cause leakage... I would adjust valves and recheck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicksta43 Posted November 18, 2018 Author Share Posted November 18, 2018 Finally replaced the pressure regulator on the leakdown tester. Now all three show around 17%. I feel much more comfortable that those numbers are correct. I need to go get a new set of feeler gauges so I can double check the valve lash and adjust that if necessary. Put a manual CCT on it and then see if it'll start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted November 18, 2018 Supporting Member Share Posted November 18, 2018 @nicksta43 I'm sending positive thoughts your way buddy, I hope it's an easy fix. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Me too, nicksta43. Thanks for the update. -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duhs10 Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 @skippert @nicksta43 I'm not that knowledgable about leak down tests...but isn't 17% high? What is acceptable? Were you able to hear the air leaking from any specific area? '15 FJ-09 w/ lots of extras... Fayetteville, GA, USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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