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Windscreen / Dash Stay Cracked (2015 FJ-09)


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I have my FJ apart to change the air filter and so some other stuff. I just looked at the stay and a long bolt will go all the way through it. I’ll go tomorrow and buy a long bolt, a couple of washers and nut to reinforce the stay. Even if it doesn’t do any good I can imagine it would hurt anything. 

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Let’s go Brandon

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  • 6 months later...

I had the exact same problem. I thought maybe the taller windshield caused it ( on the bike when I bought it). It was either that or maybe the previous owner smacked something in the brief 2000 miles he’d owned it. The metal is thin and wouldn’t turn be easy to weld. The dealer ‘hadn’t heard issues withe the brace’ and my bike was 3 months out of warranty. I bought a new bracket and am now using a smaller windscreen. 

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I got a 12” piece of stainless all-thread with two washers and nuts and ran it through the tube. I’ve been running a taller screen for a long time and have a GPS mounted up there. 80k miles and no signs of cracking. 

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Let’s go Brandon

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1 hour ago, keithu said:

Great idea. I just mounted some large aux lights to that bracket, plus I have a large windshield. I'll add some allthread this week.

You’ll have to remove some of the body panels to get the all thread in. No big deal though. I even put some grease in the tube to help keep it from rusting from the inside out. 

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Let’s go Brandon

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On 12/15/2019 at 8:48 AM, micah2074 said:

I got a 12” piece of stainless all-thread with two washers and nuts and ran it through the tube. I’ve been running a taller screen for a long time and have a GPS mounted up there. 80k miles and no signs of cracking. 

Diameter threaded rod / bolt ?

Thx

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I think it should be noted that the all-thread fix only works for the lower stay which supports aux lights and the bottom of the headlight assembly. I believe the OP had a problem with the upper stay, which is unfortunately blocked by a welded-on bracket.

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8 hours ago, micah2074 said:

Im pretty sure I used the all thread in the tube he shows that’s cracked. In the drawing, it’s the tube that runs through the bracket. 

There are two tubes. The lower one supports the bottom of the headlight assembly and has aux light mounts. The upper tube supports the top of the headlights, instruments, and windshield, and that's the one that cracked according to the photo @piotrek posted on page 1. I don't think there is much strain on the lower tube unless you mount large aux lights using the Adventuretech bracket as I did.

You can't put all thread through the upper tube because it's blocked. Although if it does eventually break, you could insert some all thread to reinforce it and then weld it back together.

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I wonder if "Liquid Steel" type epoxy could be injected into the tube (obviously first blocking off the opposite half of each end of the tube on the other sides of the "offending" brackets; and whether the epoxy would act as an internal vibration damping medium and improve fatigue strength, which is often reduced due to vibration (frequency harmonics) as often as it is by load and/or impact (flex) induced stress.

Thoughts?

It would be interesting to attempt it but if the tube does NOT crack, could it be attributed to the epoxy injection...

 

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13 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

I wonder if "Liquid Steel" type epoxy could be injected into the tube...

 

That's an interesting idea. I don't know the properties of Liquid Steel, but if it hydroforms itself to the inside of the tube and then cures rigid I think it would provide good reinforcement.

What's unclear is if the tube is continuous all the way through the central frame member, or if it is actually just two short tubes welded to each side of the central frame. I inspected mine but I can't tell without extensive disassembly. If it's two short tubes the epoxy idea won't work.

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I thought about my concept before I saw your reply, and was going to it the insertion of two lengths of steel wire,one on either side of the bracket, in conjunction with the high modulus steel fiber-filled epoxy; same concept as concrete and steel rebar (which is a composite).  I'll  insert a wire first to determine if the tube is one continuous piece, and if it is, the wire can be also used to "work" the epoxy into the tube. Probably won't try this until later this winter along with my other winter maintenance projects, as I'm still too busy riding this week with this crazy warm stretch we're having here.

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