Handlebar vibration

[lakegastonhank]

Thanks for confirming this is not just me having problems. Since some bikes have the problem and many others don't, I know something is wrong with mine, so:

1. Checked torque on a few engine mount bolts I could easily get to. Found one WAY too loose. Yikes! Not sure if this is a Yamaha fault or the dealer I purchased bike from. I found several issues directly related to the dealer.

2. My handle bar risers were dangerously loose when I purchased the bike, so I believe that after checking ALL engine and suspension bolts, I'm going to take off the risers and see if I can modify them and install some sort of rubber isolation at the triple clamp mount.

3. If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll take bars off. (leave my inner tube rubber isolation here) Cut them down maybe 1/2", install bar snake, new foam type grips and bar end weights.

Maybe we can figure this thing out together...

[BBB]

there was a recall on the risers on some FJs. Might be worth checking whether yours was either done or not affected.

[lakegastonhank]

Another thing I tried that did help quite a bit was to rotate the bars forward a bit to change how my hands related to the bars. I took them way more forward than where I thought felt right and the numbness almost went away. Before I rode yesterday I rolled the bars back to where I liked them and boom, numbness became ridiculous. Rotated back and things got better again. I wonder now if new bars might be worthwhile?

[lakegastonhank]

As I mentioned earlier in this post, I have an issue with my dealer. Before I left the showroom, I asked the shop manager if the recall had been done (I purchased brand new 2015 in 2017) and he assured me he had done it. Since the risers were dangerously loose before I even got home, I either doubt that is true or his shop is just SO bad they didn't tighten the riser nuts properly.

I do believe the main vibration issue is where the risers attach to the top triple clamp. it doesn't look like a proper way to mount these...

[fr8dog]

My bars were rolled forward from the dealer. When I started tinkering I aligned the dot on the bars with the risers per the manual. When I got on the bike my mirrors were way off. So the dealer had the bars rolled forward. Same vibration either way.

The risers can be turned 180 degrees depending if you want the bars forward or back.

I thought about installing sorbothane somewhere between the risers and triple tree. By the time you torque it down I think the rubber wouldn't be effective. Not sure.

On my son's multistrada you can push the bars up and they give a little. Some type of rubber in there somewhere. The shop manager at the dealer showed me that. He came from a harley dealer so he knew where to look.

I think the vibration is normal for this bike. Still bugs me.

[lakegastonhank]

FJ-09 Handle bar vibration problem

Step One:

This modification is the first and cheapest effort to stop vibration through bars. I will tackle isolating the handle bar risers if this doesn’t achieve desired results. The only thing that makes this modification difficult is having the factory heated grips, but as you’ll see, it is not a big problem.

First thing is to remove the hand guards. (Mine are KTM Adventure guards) Loosen all the screws on the bar controls and carefully slide them to the inside of the bar on both sides. (It is easier to do one side at a time) You do not have to remove any of them.

On the end of the bar is a black threaded screw that the hand guard bolt attaches to. A pair of channel locks with a rag to guard the bolt will remove these. (These and the hand guard screws will have to be carefully cut down too) Gather as much of the grip wire as you can to gain slack to remove the throttle grip. Be very careful not to put too much stress on these wires. Carefully slide the grip and throttle housing off the bar.

Now, using a large tubing cutter, cut off ½” inch off the end of the bar. I went ¾” but 1/2'” is probably sufficient. You will have to cut this same measurement off the hand guard bolt and the threaded bar end. (I left the guard screw a little long so I could add washers for a homemade bar end weight) Install the black bolt back into the end of the bar.

You can now slide the throttle housing and grip back onto the bar and reposition the controls in their new location. The fun part is to now lube up the over-grip foam pad grip and your existing grip. I have always used New Dawn dishwashing liquid for grips as it will dry and adhere very well. (Plus make later removal much easier) Take your time and stretch the foam grip a bit as you slide it over the heated grip. IMPORTANT NOTE: When you order these foam grips, you must specify LARGE or oversize, otherwise you may get grips intended to replace existing grips.

The left heated grip is a bit harder to remove. I used a small flat blade screwdriver to lift up a bit of the grip, and using the very small tube on WD 40, sprayed it into the grip all the way around the bar. Work the oil into the grip by twisting it. It may take several applications, but it will finally slide off the bar. (This is why I don’t use grip glue)

Now I installed 5 metal washers onto the guard end screw and tightened well. (TaDa, almost free bar end weights) Sit on the bike and position the controls, then tighten them well. Reposition the mirrors to suit you. Let the bike sit over night so the grips can dry and take a set.

For older guys like me, I rolled my bars a bit forward from usual; to further change your hand/arm position. This seems to alleviate numbness even more. I will ride today to evaluate results and report back.

[chitown]

On 2/9/2019 at 12:38 PM, lakegastonhank said:

Another thing I tried that did help quite a bit was to rotate the bars forward a bit to change how my hands related to the bars. I took them way more forward than where I thought felt right and the numbness almost went away. Before I rode yesterday I rolled the bars back to where I liked them and boom, numbness became ridiculous. Rotated back and things got better again. I wonder now if new bars might be worthwhile?

The medical column that ran in Motorcycle Consumer News back in the day had some fairly lengthy discussions of rider hand numbness and wrist angle. One task on any new to me bike is attempt adjustment of the bars and/or controls such that there's as little bend as possible in the wrist at my most-common riding position.

Another article focused on the neck angle. A rider may have a helmet they've used for years without issue but changing bikes usually means changing riding position, different forces from aeros, and move pressure from the neck bar to a new position. Just another item to consider in sources of numbness.  

 

[betoney]

5 minutes ago, chitown said:

One task on any new to me bike is attempt adjustment of the bars and/or controls such that there's as little bend as possible in the wrist at my most-common riding position.

 

^^Exactly!^^  It drives me nuts when I see newer riders with their levers level to the horizon, when I recommend adjusting them downward in the same plane as their forearm, you get a quizzical look and the reply, "You can adjust the lever angle? thats how the dealer had them set when I bought the bike".

You should see my dirtbike levers, I stand alot when riding and position myself forward over the bars, so my levers are positioned at a very downward angle to keep my wrists straight.

Sit on your bike in the garage, slightly loosen all of your controls and rotate them so when you use them you dont have to bend your wrist upward.  When you take it out for a test ride I think you will notice a huge improvement in wrist and forearm comfort.

[lakegastonhank]

After Ride report:

1.       The narrowed bars make the bike handle much, much better. The difference is obvious after the first corner. This alone is a major step forward. (Remember mine are a full 1 ½” narrower)

2.      There is still some vibration but the larger, softer grips reduce the felt sensation significantly. A one hour ride was quite a difference from before, with my hands no longer falling asleep. A longer ride? Maybe not so much different, so I believe the hand guards can go back on. These really make four season riding possible with the thinner gloves for the heated grips.

3.      The heated grips still work effectively, but one step higher is necessary.

4.      The rolled-forward handle bar position is also much better, but even further forward may be necessary.

So where do I go from here?

1.       The obvious answer is the handle bar riser mounts. These must have some sort of vibration isolation. This is not a difficult modification, but you will need a very long ratchet extension to remove the nuts from the risers. I recommend using anti-seize on these nuts and bolt in case further mods are necessary. DO NOT STRIP THESE OUT or you will be really screwed.

2.      I had rotated my risers to set the bars ½” forward. This could be contributing to the vibration also, so I will reverse them as I isolate the risers from the triple tree.

3.      While my homemade bar end weights did seem to make a difference, I will purchase the FZ-09 bar end weights. (Why in the world they didn’t put them on the FJ, I can only wonder)

 

Some great answers here and all are simple and easy to accomplish. I too raced motocross for 12 years and bar positioning, which is a "move-and-test" feat, which makes you try the bars in several positions to see how your hands, wrists and arms react.

[andersh]

On 1/21/2019 at 5:57 AM, wordsmith said:

Installing Grip Puppies on each handlebar grip is a proven way to minimise/ eradicate vibration, unless it is very pronounced - in which case something may be wrong.

Just be aware that the handles will get really fat. I tried the Grip Puppies, but really didn't like them.

[bugie]

On 2/9/2019 at 12:43 AM, thepmh said:

thanks bugie. Have you programmed your settings for the intensity on all 3 heat levels?

I have done this and while you can feel the heated grips on 10, there is still a noticable decrease in their effectiveness

[bugie]

9 hours ago, andersh said:

Just be aware that the handles will get really fat. I tried the Grip Puppies, but really didn't like them.

That is true! It takes a little getting used to and at first you may find yourself over accelerating, but it'll be fine when you get used to it. The advantage is the wider grips mean that accelerating/deaccelerating requires very little twist of the wrist. The additional wider grips also mean that the pressure on the wrist is distributed across a wider area so makes it a lot more comfortable.

[lakegastonhank]

Yamaha FJ-09 vibration part3

Update:

I found another dealer related problem on my FJ. I was going through my service manual and, completely by accident, opened to a page in Chassis and suspension. There on the page was a picture of the handle bar and clamps.

The notation mentioned the correct position of the handle bar clamps and sure enough, mine were reversed. Once I removed them I noticed each one was clearly stamped “L” or “R”. Damn, if I hadn’t noticed that I probably never would have realized there was a problem there.

The notched areas should face OUTWARDS.

Once I had them corrected, I cranked the bike on the center stand and it was immediately evident the vibration was much less. It is still not as it should be, but I am now close to an almost vibration free handle bar.

[sdb]

I know the name is stupid but it if you can find a set of Vibrinators ( bare ends with a cantilevered weight that runs inside the handle bar for want of a better description ) give them a try along with thick, adventure grips (better than grip puppies) along with padded gloves.  I’m guessing the combo cut down on the vibration by about 50%.

[tobz]

I posted this mod in another thread a while ago. Now that I've been able to ride it some, I can say that any handlebar vibration has been completely eliminated.

Rox Speed FX anti vibration pivot risers, and universal 10mm stud handlebar mounts from Nekin.