Another Cracked Oil Pan

[foxtrot722]

47 minutes ago, Duke said:

 

My biggest concerns with a steel plate are due to the possibility of corrosion die to dissimilar metals, and the possibility of adhesive failure due to the different expansion and contraction rates of steel and aluminum. 

Thoughts of using aluminum diamond plate? It comes in at least two thicknesses, one has some structural strength and the other is thinner and is used for decorative decking like on some boat trailer fenders. The thinner one epoxied on would offer some added protection if the pan were bumped by distributing the impact to a wider area. A BIG downside would be if it broke loose from the different expansion and contraction, at highway speeds, hitting the rear tire and just the right angle could be  disastrous. 

Edited April 29, 2019 by foxtrot722

[Duke]

1 hour ago, foxtrot722 said:

Thoughts of using aluminum diamond plate? It comes in at least two thicknesses, one has some structural strength and the other is thinner and is used for decorative decking like on some boat trailer fenders. The thinner one epoxied on would offer some added protection if the pan were bumped by distributing the impact to a wider area. A BIG downside would be if it broke loose from the different expansion and contraction, at highway speeds, hitting the rear tire and just the right angle could be  disastrous. 

I was thinking plain aluminum plate. That way if anything did contact it, it would be more likely to slide over rather than to bite into the surface. If I were able to add wings to the front and back or sides, I could use the epoxy to bond them to the pan for a little extra strength and more protection from the plate coming loose. 

[estell]

22 hours ago, Duke said:

 I wonder if simply epoxying an extra layer of material to the bottom of the pan would provide additional protection? 

You want to make the bottom of the pan thicker? thus reducing ground clearance? That would likely increase the chance of cracking the pan.

It seems to me that the better fix is to increase ground clearance by cutting off the fin and use a low-profile drain plug.

[nhchris]

What's the easiest and safest way to cut off the fin?

[estell]

20 minutes ago, nhchris said:

What's the easiest and safest way to cut off the fin?

An angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. A Dremel works. A thin cutoff wheel cuts right through the aluminum fin. 

It doesn't matter if you cut into the plug since you are replacing it too.

[Duke]

1 hour ago, estell said:

You want to make the bottom of the pan thicker? thus reducing ground clearance? That would likely increase the chance of cracking the pan.

It seems to me that the better fix is to increase ground clearance by cutting off the fin and use a low-profile drain plug.

You make a good point; however, I would also cut the fin, replace the plug, and then reduce the ground clearance by approximately 1/4” by adding more material to strengthen the bottom and bottom edges of the pan. I would do this as an alternative to adding weight and significantly reducing ground clearance by adding a cage to protect the unreinforced pan.

I’m mostly concerned about the added weight and potentially reduced cornering clearance that may be caused by aftermarket options, especially when running fully loaded. I like some of the protective products, but they are guaranteed to add weight, and will likely reduce ground clearance.

Unfortunately there is no perfect solution.

By the way, I sincerely appreciate the constructive feedback. Please keep it coming. 

[wordsmith]

Could someone pls give me the Mazda oil-drain plug part number that replaces the taller OE item?   And does the Mazda plug require a new crush-washer from them too?   Many thanks..

[micah2074]

I’ve changed a lot of oil in a lot of engines with plugs that used the sealing washers. I’ve never used a new washer and can’t think a single time ones leaked. 

[betoney]

4 minutes ago, micah2074 said:

I’ve changed a lot of oil in a lot of engines with plugs that used the sealing washers. I’ve never used a new washer and can’t think a single time ones leaked. 

I change the washer about every 3-4 oil changes, at my schedule thats about 1 washer per year.

[koth442]

7 hours ago, micah2074 said:

I’ve changed a lot of oil in a lot of engines with plugs that used the sealing washers. I’ve never used a new washer and can’t think a single time ones leaked. 

This.

[Duke]

7 hours ago, wordsmith said:

Could someone pls give me the Mazda oil-drain plug part number that replaces the taller OE item?   And does the Mazda plug require a new crush-washer from them too?   Many thanks..

Let me Google that for you. 😁

 

[SuperMax]

Can someone tell me, please, what is the oil quantity that has to be filled in after changing the oil pan? Asking as I only have 3 x 1L (total of 3.17 quarts) cans of oil and with the oil pan and oil filter being brand new, just wondering if I would need a total of 3.4L (3.59 quarts), as the service manual mentions this value for the disassembled assembly.

 

[duhs10]

3 hours ago, SuperMax said:

Can someone tell me, please, what is the oil quantity that has to be filled in after changing the oil pan? Asking as I only have 3 x 1L (total of 3.17 quarts) cans of oil and with the oil pan and oil filter being brand new, just wondering if I would need a total of 3.4L (3.59 quarts), as the service manual mentions this value for the disassembled assembly.

 

I take "disassembled" to mean the entire engine... I don't have a definitive answer for you but I suspect the actual amount of oil needed after swapping out the pan will be somewhere between the 2 values (2.70 L and 3.40 L.

[2and3cylinders]

I always carry JB Weld and some plumbers putty (and duct tape, safety wire, zip ties, etc) even before I heard about the oil pan vulnerability. I installed the SW Mototech skid plate even after a low profile plug and doing the fin trim when TW had it on sale for a week for only $90 shipped.  It still sucks...

[2and3cylinders]

Hmmm