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Oil Pan Replacement, AKA Strainer Cover Replacement


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This is my first time experiencing this problem, but many others have. 

My 2015 with the bottom drain plug finely caught up with me. was getting fuel about 200 mile from home, in the pouring rain, misjudged a little step down, bottom of bike just barley touched, just enough to feel, pulled back under fuel pump area and inspect. After about 2 minutes, saw that one little drop of oil. Rented an U-Haul 5X9 trailer and trailered the bike 200 miles to home. So the good part is, caught it as soon as it happened. 

Call the dealer where I purchased the bike, spoke with service Manager and explained the bottom drain design error and Yamaha attempted to correct the problem with a redesigned drain that was located on the side. 

Taking that into consideration,  would he provide a discount on the parts needed to make the repairs. 

After getting pricing from local dealer,  looks like to me the pricing they offered was retail. based that on a Yamaha Parts web site that was offering parts at a 40 % discount. When I added up the web parts cost and added about 40% to it, it was near what the dealer quoted me. 

Needless to say, I was a little miffed that the dealer didn't appear to offer any discount. The next time I am close by, I'll stop in and ask to speak to the Dealer Manager, only fair to let him know they have lost a customer and I won't rely on them for new bike sales, parts, or service. 

I was aware of the Mazda mod, but felt consider I ride solo and am cautious about clearance, I could avoid hitting something. Which was not the case. Remember, the bump was so light, I barely felt it. 

For those of you that might want to switch to a side drain pan, below is a part list I ordered. The online part number page showed the new part # for the pan and also a new part # for the 15 screws to mount. I was not able to tell if the screws for the new pan was longer or shorter, so I ordered them also. 

     . .Gasket  - These are the crush washers that go on the drain plug

Item #214-11198-01-00    $1.60    3    $4.80

     Gasket, Exhaust Pipe - Be sure an order these, crush washers for exhaust headers. 
Item #4FM-14613-00-00    $5.15    3    $15.45

     Element Assy, Oil Cleaner - This is the oil filter
Options: Old Sku: 5GH-13440-50-00
Item #5GH-13440-60-00    $8.08    1    $8.08

     . .O-Ring - This is the O-ring that goes on the oil level switch located on bottom of pan. One is all that is needed. 
Item #5VY-8A8E0-00-00    $4.42    2    $8.84

     . Plug, Straight Screw - This is the drain plug, not needed, it is included with the Strainer Cover Assy, that we call the oil pan
Item #90340-14132-00    $5.88    1    $5.88

     Bolt, Hexagon Socket Head - Shame on Yamaha here, when ordering the updated pan, it showed updated part numbers for the 15 bolt that attach the pan, concerned they might be a different length, I ordered a complete set, the only difference is the new one have the heard painted black, I'm returning these. 
Options: Old Sku: 91312-06025-00
Item #91317-06025-00    $1.90    15    $28.50

     Strainer Cover Assy
Options: Old Sku: 1RC-13400-00-00
Item #B56-13400-10-00    $131.45    1    $131.45

     Gasket, Strainer Cover
Options: Old Sku: 1RC-13414-00-00
Item #BD5-13414-00-00    $11.74    1    $11.74
 

Subtotal:     $214.74
Shipping:     $23.49
Salestax:     $0.00
Order Total:     $238.23

 

Learned a few things during the install, 

Parts list, 

As you know, there is a revised part # for the pan with the side drain, it also showed a revised part # for the 15 screws that attach it. I purchased just in case there was a length difference. End up the only difference was the color of the head of the screw, it was black, so I'll be returning these. 

Also, someone mention that the drain plug was included with the pan, and that was correct. 

The pan replacement is fairly straight forward, I did take a few photos of the process. It can be done with bike on side stand if you don't mind laying on the floor for a few hours. I used a couple on exercise mats to lay on. 

Picture of new pan. 

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Center stand needs to be removed, the spring was a bit of a challenge to get off. Used a block of wood to brace up the brake lever and used a screwdriver to remove. The nut for the bolt on the center stand is welded on the back side, so just unscrew the bolt, one on each side.

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Removed screws holding wiring harness, was planning to disconnect the plug, but it was not giving up easy, so unscrewed the O2 sensor, there was enough slack in the harness that it didn't twist the wires too much. I used high temp anti seize compound on the threads during the reinstall. Remember to put 5 of 6 twist counterclockwise before reinstalling so you don't end up with twisted wires. 

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Other than the header bolts, exhaust has two bolts at the rear, one on each side. nut is welded, so just unscrew the bolts. Be sure to replace the 3 crush washers and step torque to 14 foot lbs., way too much work to take a chance on a leak. I used two,  2X4 Boards, one flat and one edge ways under the muffler to support it while removing. 

DSC02976.thumb.JPG.25fd49d1ea63cf75199d5090cbf49bb0.JPG

Putting the spring back on the center stand was a challenge also, here is what I came up with that worked, in retrospect, this would have been a better way to remove the spring.

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End Product, 

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Photos of cracked pan,

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In the photo below, you can tell the contact was just high enough to give it a bump, Did not strike the leading edge of the deflector

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This was posted in the  General Discussion section, below are some tips posted by other member, hopefully I can copy the information over so it will give the member credit for their suggestions. 

micah2074

These also work well for springs.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/performance-tools-brake-spring-pliers-w175/11505733-p

 

betoney

For anyone needing to remove and replace springs, a Spring Puller Tool  is worth its weight in gold, it makes it a 2 second job.  As a life long 2-Stroke dirt bike rider, I have always had one in my tool box for the expansion chamber springs.

 

chitown

Might add that If you have access to a rear stand you don't need to remove the center stand. The headers only need to be rotated out of the way, which can be done without pulling the cat through the center stand.

When dealing with springs and no spring tool there's the penny trick too. Coins/washers/etc inserted between coils. 

 

This leads to a question, was looking ay skid pans. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

chitown

Higdonion Cages... 2 or 3 different styles of lower cages and an upper cage option... He just released a newer update design also...

 

fddriver2

https://www.motea.com/en/catalog/product/view/id/103062/s/motor-schutz-yamaha-mt-09-tracer-15-18-schwarz-inkl-montageset-importiert-70000241100/

 

Cruizin

The @higdonion model is the way to go. His revised guard is rock solid, gets the job done and looks great. Plus, he supports this forum in many ways. 

 

Link to General Discussion 

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Edited by foxtrot722
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1970 DT-250 / 1972 250MX / 1973 360MX / 1974 250MX & 1974 CZ 400 Red Frame & SC 500 / 1978 YZ 250 / 1979  YZ250 / (2) 1980 YZ 250 / 1986 YZ 490 / 1989 YZ250 WR / 1994 YZ 250 / (2) 2002 YZ 426 / 2007 YZ 450 / 2007 DR 650, 2015 FJ 09 / 2020 YZ 250

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On 5/4/2019 at 9:30 AM, ilanr1 said:

Hi , where did you buy these parts ?.

Thanks

Merchant
Interstate Cycle - MotorSport Monster

Address: 3265 Charlotte Hwy, Mooresville, NC 28117

Phone: (888) 987-6361

parts@interstatecycle.com
704-987-9800

Motor Sport Monster

When I called a explained the reason for wanting the return the 15 pan screws, part folks were very professional and understanding, are going the wave the restocking fee. 

 

Edited by foxtrot722

1970 DT-250 / 1972 250MX / 1973 360MX / 1974 250MX & 1974 CZ 400 Red Frame & SC 500 / 1978 YZ 250 / 1979  YZ250 / (2) 1980 YZ 250 / 1986 YZ 490 / 1989 YZ250 WR / 1994 YZ 250 / (2) 2002 YZ 426 / 2007 YZ 450 / 2007 DR 650, 2015 FJ 09 / 2020 YZ 250

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  • 1 year later...

Can someone tell me, please, what is the oil quantity that has to be filled in after changing the oil pan? Asking as I only have 3 x 1L (total of 3.17 quarts) cans of oil and with the oil pan and oil filter being brand new, just wondering if I would need a total of 3.4L (3.59 quarts), as the service manual mentions this value for the disassembled assembly.

 

image.png.5b65b3e3f40d9cebb0067aabc61f47bf.png

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1 hour ago, SuperMax said:

Can someone tell me, please, what is the oil quantity that has to be filled in after changing the oil pan? Asking as I only have 3 x 1L (total of 3.17 quarts) cans of oil and with the oil pan and oil filter being brand new, just wondering if I would need a total of 3.4L (3.59 quarts), as the service manual mentions this value for the disassembled assembly.

 

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Maybe buy 1 more bottle just in case? 🤷‍♀️

When I change the oil, I fill it to about 3/4 the height on the sight glass (while upright, not on the side stand) , ride it a few blocks and then let it settle a few minutes, check level and add a bit more and ride it again. 

The CP3 motor likes the level to be a bit higher on the sight glass, right in the middle 'might' be a bit low.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Yes, buying an extra 1L can of oil is definitely what I did now, problem is that I am using Motul 7100 10W50 and that is not really readily available here in US as it is in Europe, and the delivery will take aprox. 1 month. I only had 3L, as I was prepared for a regular oil changed, but then I realized I need to change the oil pan to a (very) small crack and let the oil drain for 3 days. Even though I do not expect all oil to have drained from the engine, changing the oil pan also meas that I should probably go for a bit more than the 2.7L litres recommended when replacing the oil filter.

Thanks for sharing your experience with the oil level!

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17 minutes ago, betoney said:

@SuperMax - Check your local Cycle Gear, they carry Motul 7100.

They can order it for you, they do not have any Motul oil in stock...not where I live at least. Website states for my closest Cycle Gear shop:"Requires 8-10 business days of lead time prior to shipment" - called them and they confirmed they do not stock Motul 7100

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1 hour ago, SuperMax said:

They can order it for you, they do not have any Motul oil in stock...not where I live at least. Website states for my closest Cycle Gear shop:"Requires 8-10 business days of lead time prior to shipment" - called them and they confirmed they do not stock Motul 7100

Sorry to hear its out of stock, 8-10 days might be better than ordering from Europe though?

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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20 minutes ago, betoney said:

Sorry to hear its out of stock, 8-10 days might be better than ordering from Europe though?

You'd be surprised, but most of the motorcycle webshops in Europe, besides having way better prices than the likes of Revzilla and such (for anything European manufactured) are delivering by DHL Express, that usually implies a 4 calendar days delivery (2-3 business days, guaranteed delivery). In this particular case, it isn;t worthy of ordering some 3-4L of oil only, but when it comes to higher value orders (that do include free shipping), it makes all the sense in the world to order from Spain, Italy or even Germany :)

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  • 11 months later...
  • 1 month later...
On 7/2/2020 at 7:14 AM, SuperMax said:

Can someone tell me, please, what is the oil quantity that has to be filled in after changing the oil pan? Asking as I only have 3 x 1L (total of 3.17 quarts) cans of oil and with the oil pan and oil filter being brand new, just wondering if I would need a total of 3.4L (3.59 quarts), as the service manual mentions this value for the disassembled assembly.

 

image.png.5b65b3e3f40d9cebb0067aabc61f47bf.png

I just completed this job. It ended up taking somewhere around 3.0 US quarts.

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