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Need a couple of recommendations


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Hello All,

Doing my own maintenance from now on with my bike, don't really like the local dealers here in Nevada seems like they are way overpriced and with the amount of riding I do for my commuting its gonna kill my budget if I continue.

I have another motorcycle a URAL and I have had an XS650 and a Kawasaki KZ400LTD-H, I am no stranger to motorcycle maintenance and I have most of the tools.

With that said, with anyone's experience my chain has some significant sag, probably just a little out of spec but does not display any power or handling issues on the bike, I keep it lubed regularly. (once a week) I am looking for a recommendation on either adjusting the chain or should I just replace the chain, I have plenty of travel left in the chain adjustment just curious based on what others have done for this bike. If suggested replacement then which one should I use? I have the factory sprocket setup. 

 

I will also be doing the oil change as well, I still have a warranty I paid for through the dealer in San Diego too. I was thinking about changing from Yamalube over to Redline which is what I have used in my other motorcycles. Thoughts? 

 

Last but not least I am at the next interval for spark plugs and I was curious if this is really necessary as often as Yamaha recommends, spark plugs are cheap but I am not the type to replace or repair things until its absolutely necessary or as a preventative measure. My spark plug experience is with carburetor bikes and this is my first fuel inject so wondering if this is normal or just the manufacturer being extra careful?

 

Thank for the replies!

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Chains flex. That's normal. The markers on the side of the swing arm near the axle bolt tell you when the chain is at the end of the permittable stretch so continue adjusting until you get close to the end of the markers.

When adjusting the chain, just keep an eye out for stuck joints and damage such as broken linkages

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Sorry Bugie, the FJ/MT doesn’t have marks to indicate when to replace a chain. I think that’s a Honda thang.

The GT tracer has an updated chain freeplay spec, IIRC it’s around 35mm. 

On 1st gen models yamaha calls for 5-15mm which around here is a no-no. I set mine at about 10-15mm when I’m sitting on the bike (looser if you’re measuring in the center stand).

replacements time varies, id say as low as 12k miles to around 20k is what most riders get. 

Spark plugs, easily can bump out the R&R to 12 or maybe even 16k mike intervals. 

Oil? Whatever makes you happy, just change it regularly and make sure it’s bike specific (for wet clutch application). No one around here has pulled an engine apart and said “I’ve got proof my oil is better than yours, look at the (lack of) wear!”

YMMV,

-Skip

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8 minutes ago, skipperT said:

Sorry Bugie, the FJ/MT doesn’t have marks to indicate when to replace a chain. I think that’s a Honda thang.

The GT tracer has an updated chain freeplay spec, IIRC it’s around 35mm. 

What i mean is sliding the axle back along the chain adjustment notches. When the chain is shot you'll be near the last adjustment notches with the chain still being out of freeplay spec. It's at this point the chain definitely needs to be changed (assuming it doesn't develop stiff spots or other physical damage before then).

Correct. The GT free play spec is between 35-45mm

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The chain is a 525 size( same for my fz-07)- set free play at 35mm... I barely have to adjust the chain ( maybe adjusted chain 2 times in 8k miles on my FJ-09 and maybe 3 times in 18k miles on my FZ-07 which is now toast)...

The hash marks on the swingarm are just quick reference marks to align the axle , then check with an alignment gauge... 

2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp
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Adjust vs buy isn't something I've asked myself with a chain. While I might replace early if a long trip is scheduled usually just go by regular checks done while cleaning. There are some basic inspection procedures in most service manuals and online articles that cover checking chain and sprockets thoroughly. At each chain maintenance day I'll follow them - checking all links for smooth operation, visual signs of oring or pin failure, pulling the chain away from the sprocket, checking sprocket teeth, etc. 

After the first slack adjustment following putting a load on a brand new chain mine usually don't need two adjustments within several thousand miles. Once that happens an order is made for a replacement to have on hand and inspections become even more careful. Chain metal (plates) doesn't deform enough for us to be concerned it's all the other more forgiving pieces that take the wear that will require slack adjustment and once one starts to go slack adjustments will increase and it's a matter of time.  

Yay! Oil questions! Least expensive in recommended viscosity that doesn't say Energy Conserving || (no good for wet clutches) in the donut label on the bottle. Expensive pic of motorcycle on label optional. 

Spark plugs don't seem to need replacing as often as Yamaha suggests. Due to limited access started doubling the interval on previous Yamahas with no detectable issues. One of those items that will get done "when I"m in the neighborhood" regardless of exact mileage. 

Edited by chitown
typos
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18 hours ago, bugie said:

When the chain is shot you'll be near the last adjustment notches with the chain still being out of freeplay spec. It's at this point the chain definitely needs to be changed (assuming it doesn't develop stiff spots or other physical damage before then).

Assuming that the gearing wasn’t dropped one tooth, then yes. 

Those marks are intended to give you a reference point for aligning the rear tire without measuring to the swingarm pivot on each side.  

-S

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try and pull the chain off the rear sprocket. The amount of movement is relative to wear. 

I changed my chain set after 18000 miles. The chain was starting to wear , the front sprocket was hooked. Should have changed this at 10K intervals. It wears 4 times faster than the rear sprocket.

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2 hours ago, scaley said:

try and pull the chain off the rear sprocket. The amount of movement is relative to wear. 

I changed my chain set after 18000 miles. The chain was starting to wear , the front sprocket was hooked. Should have changed this at 10K intervals. It wears 4 times faster than the rear sprocket.

I would venture to say that that kind of excessive wear is not normal.  Yes- the oem chain changed out at 18,000 isn't uncommon but needing to change the sprocket interval to 10,000 is very excessive.  Do you have anti-ice or salt/sand on your roads?

 

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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