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Fitting GPR steering damper - How To.


scuff
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As there is no GPR fitting kit for the MT/FJ-09 Tracer yet, I ordered the kit for the standard FZ/MT-09. The kit and stabilizer (U.S.A. spelling) is part number 5011-4099. The supplier was Brook Suspension in the U.K. The fitting kit comes with replacement handlebar clamps which were not needed, and were too low for the tracer, and would cause the handlebars to come into contact with the fuel tank.
 
Removal of the tank panel and side panels was needed to give clear access to the top triple clamp and handlebar clamps.
 
First to be removed were the handlebars and clamps as one unit. The clamps are held onto the triple clamps from underneath by 14mm lock nuts, tightened onto studs protruding from the handlebar clamps and through the triple clamps. As you look from the saddle, the right hand nut was fairly easy to undo using a deep socket, the other side was obstructed by frame castings and had to be accessed from just above the lower triple clamp when the handlebars were turned fully left. Once the nuts were undone, the handlebars and clamps could be lifted from the triple clamps. The steering head nut was removed with a 27mm socket.
 
The kit comes with a new lower profile steering head nut (32mm socket) and washer, it was torqued up to 80ft/lb. the original studs fitted to the handlebar clamps were too short to pass through the new damper mounting plate and the top triple clamp, so I removed them, unfortunately, the replacement bolts were too long, so I used a 3mm spacer instead of cutting the hardened bolts to size. The damper mounting plate fitted between the handlebar clamps. It is marked 'this side up', so it will only go in one way. The new handlebar clamp bolts (17mm socket) were fed through into the triple clamp from underneath, and started by hand into the alloy handlebar clamps and then tightened to 29 ft/lb.
 
Next, the petrol tank front mounting bolt was removed. The damper arm locking bracket dropped straight into place and a new longer hex bolt clamped it down.
 
The main damper unit was bolted to the new bracket under the handlebars with 2 supplied hex bolts, the damper tongue slotting into the locking bracket. The damper tongue was then tightened into the bracket with a pinch bolt.
 
The bodywork was re-fitted.
 
I would suggest that this shouldn't be attempted unless you are reasonably proficient with mechanics, as it is a bit awkward at times. Having another person to hold the handlebars when removing the studs was also useful.
 
I will take the bike out tomorrow and play with the damper settings.
 
I hope this helps if you are thinking of fitting one of these dampers yourself.
 
GPR1.jpg
 
GPR2.jpg
 
GPR3.jpg
 
GPR4.jpg
 
GPR5.jpg
 
GPR6.jpg
 
And this is what I had left.
 
GPR7.jpg
 
 
Additional instructions HERE.
 
 
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The FJ doesn't need one of these as much as the FZ did, if at all. If you have your ECU reflashed for more speed and quicker response, then it may well be a good idea to get one. IMO. I got one for my FZ-09 and it proved to useful both for on the road touring and in the twisties. It was hard to adjust on the fly, as it will be on the FJ, but possible. It is easy to adjust and once you get used to knowing where to find "0", which will be easy to see on the FJ. It was blocked on the FZ with the handlebars being too close and blocking sight of the dial. The FJ doesn't have the twitches as the FZ did before the reflash, so I'm most likely will not use my GPR4 unit on the FJ. Will wait for Scuff's review after he get on it hard on some rough roads, tight twisties and is dragging his pegs, as that is when it will be needed. :)
 
BTW: Good write up and pics. Added this to the "HOW TOO" INDEX.  
SEE Scuff's follow up review with GPR4 installed.

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  106,000 m (Lost compression in #2 Cyl.)

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Question for you Scuff.
The chrome damper mount under the handlebar clamp. Does that come with it, or did you have to make it?
Did you put washers under the bolt heads as I assume your new bolts were too long (bolts you bought to replace the studs)?
 
img][img]gpr1a_zpsk1jwjezx.jpg
 
A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.
George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)
Bikes:
2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket.
2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes)
2007 FJR1300 (Sold!)
 
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The plate and the bolts came with the kit.
Once I had unscrewed the original studs, I replaced them with the supplied bolts and spring washers. I chose to put a small spacer instead of cutting a few mm off of the two bolts.
I hope that helps.
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Since I already owned a GPR4 that I bought for my FZ-09, I was glad that scuff made his post and showed how he adapted it to the Tracer. I added it to my FJ-09, knowing how it settled the steering on the FZ, and here is a minor difference in the install. I removed the studs from the risers by double bolting, tightening them together, then turning the lower bolt to remove the stud. 
.OiaBjBg.jpg
 
I then measured the studs at 45mm, and bought bolts that were at least 1/4" longer because the GPR4 mounting plate is 1/4" thick and would raise the risers that much.  
6oSc1Z3.jpg
 
I cut the heads off of two bolts that were 10mm x 1.25pitch x 60mm.
TjCNagw.jpg
 
I then applied Lok Tite to the threads to the depth equal to that which the original studs sank into the risers:
QqgLbnN.jpg
 
I screwed them into the risers and let the Lok Tite set.  
Lvo17TG.jpg
 
The external length is about 5/16" longer than the original studs and now I can use the OEM lock nuts.
1HxkurJ.jpg
 
After loc tite set up, I installed the risers and applied torque to nuts.
 
If you are an expert and find this is not a good idea to use Lok Tite on the risers like I have, Please let me know, thanks.
 
 
 
 

Ken, Candy Ass L.D.R. Sleeps 8 hours
(2)2005 FJR1300abs:  230,000 m
2015 FJ-09:  106,000 m (Lost compression in #2 Cyl.)

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If you are an expert and find this is not a good idea to use Lok Tite on the risers like I have, Please let me know, thanks.
 

Isn't it too late now? :-) 
 
2015 FJ-09 (Mary Kate)
2007 Daytona 675 (Tabitha, ret.)
1998 Vulcan 800 (Ret.)
2001 SV650S (Veronica, Ret.)
2000 Intruder 800 (Ret.)
 
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Since I already owned a GPR4 that I bought for my FZ-09, I was glad that scuff made his post and showed how he adapted it to the Tracer. I added it to my FJ-09, knowing how it settled the steering on the FZ, and here is a minor difference in the install. I removed the studs from the risers by double bolting, tightening them together, then turning the lower bolt to remove the stud. 
.OiaBjBg.jpg
 
I then measured the studs at 45mm, and bought bolts that were at least 1/4" longer because the GPR4 mounting plate is 1/4" thick and would raise the risers that much.  
6oSc1Z3.jpg
 
I cut the heads off of two bolts that were 10mm x 1.25pitch x 60mm.
TjCNagw.jpg
 
I then applied Lok Tite to the threads to the depth equal to that which the original studs sank into the risers:
QqgLbnN.jpg
 
I screwed them into the risers and let the Lok Tite set up before applying any torque.
Lvo17TG.jpg
 
The external length is about 5/16" longer than the original studs and now I can use the OEM lock nuts.
1HxkurJ.jpg
 
If you are an expert and find this is not a good idea to use Lok Tite on the risers like I have, Please let me know, thanks.
 
 
 

Locktite is installed wet, and not allowed to dry before tightening which is what you have done. Waiting for the Locktite to set up before torquing is not required. The advantage to cutting off the bolts as you have done is to make the installation easier, however using bolts is just as good structurally, but a little harder to install the risers. Red locktite is not good (hard to remove bolts and sometimes requires heat), but you have used blue, which is the removable type, and preferred on most everything on a motorcycle. Additionally, your method to remove the studs is the preferred way and does no damage to the studs. Good job. clap_zpsdyza0r53.gif 
Can you believe I actually get paid good money to write these things at work? It's fun to me. crazy_zpsrqn3rp81.gif
 
A government which robs Peter to pay Paul can always depend on the support of Paul.
George Bernard Shaw (1856-1950)
Bikes:
2015 FJ-09, Seat Concepts seat cover and foam, Cal Sci medium screen, rim stripes, factory heated grips, Cortech Dryver tank bag ring, Modified stock exhaust, FlashTune with Graves fuel map, Cree driving lights, Aux power socket.
2012 Street Triple type R (Wifes)
2007 FJR1300 (Sold!)
 
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Guest lawrenceofsuburbia
Are there suitable/ effective alternatives to this GPR unit - good though it seems - such as the piston-and-rod steering damper seen on many bikes?
 
L of S
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Are there suitable/ effective alternatives to this GPR unit - good though it seems - such as the piston-and-rod steering damper seen on many bikes? 
L of S
I think a company called hyperpro lists the mt-09 but not the tracer specifically.  
There is This one

But the mounting appears to use the filler cap ring, so I'm not sure if it would work without extensive mods.
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Okay make progress but the gpr instrustions are vag. So when installing the gpr steering nut did you leave the stock washer then put the gpr washer on top then the nut. If I install just one washer my 32mm socket wont beable to torque it down because on interferience with the top crown.
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