Ride 24K on the OEM air filter...

[betoney]

1 hour ago, WKE002 said:

 i did not catch what its trying to explain, especially on the tank removal, i dont see if any fuel hose to be disconnect as that could get messy if need to remove, coming from my noob diy.

No need to remove the tank or fuel line.  Remove all 4 of the tank fasteners, lift the tank and rotate it 180 degree backward.  Place it on a towel where the seat would normally go.

There are 10 screws holding the airbox lid on, do yourself a favor and use a cordless drill with an extension and magnetic bit to (slowly and carefully) remove them.

[piotrek]

5 minutes ago, betoney said:

No need to remove the tank or fuel line

Good call... I am so used to doing the air filter change at winter teardown that this totally skipped my mind.

[keithu]

12 hours ago, piotrek said:

@keithu can help with the plastic bits, but yeah... seat, tank... fuel line coupling can be a bit of a pain. Unplug the ECU and open the air box. Do this on near empty tank... 🤔. Good luck.

If you're going to all this trouble you might as well remove the airbox completely and replace the sparkplugs and clutch cable while you're in there.

I know the newer clutch cable is less prone to breaking, but it is a wear item and relatively cheap.

[keithu]

12 hours ago, betoney said:

No need to remove the tank or fuel line.  Remove all 4 of the tank fasteners, lift the tank and rotate it 180 degree backward.  Place it on a towel where the seat would normally go.

Although once you get the hang of the fuel line connector it's not difficult to remove.

In case anyone isn't aware of this: to remove the fuel tank completely, first remove the two rear tank screws but only loosen the front bolts slightly. With the rear bolts removed the whole tank pivots up on the front bolts so you can reach in and disconnect everything. This way there's no risk of scratching the frame or dropping the tank while you wrestle with the connectors.

[fjray]

Changed to a K&N filter when I changed plugs at 9K.  Had to buy a hose clamp remover for the clamps that are not accessable with a regular hose pliers. Definitely helped watching a YouTube vid.

[Motocheck]

I recently replaced air filter at 24K KM with Sprint and paid close to $100 Canadian dollars. This filter does not require recharge kit, simply blow with compress air and its good to go. I got new spark plugs that I wanted to replace, will also remove AIS and install block off plates, planning to sync throttle bodies... but time is money! I got Vcycle ECU flash so expecting no error light after AIS remove.

[piotrek]

10 hours ago, keithu said:

If you're going to all this trouble you might as well remove the airbox completely and replace the sparkplugs and clutch cable while you're in there.

I know the newer clutch cable is less prone to breaking, but it is a wear item and relatively cheap.

2019 GT. May be a little early for either of these two things. Winter up here is probably the best time to be changing the filter anyway, as part of other maintenance. I would not be doing that mid-season.

Edited July 22, 2020 by piotrek

[piotrek]

10 hours ago, keithu said:

In case anyone isn't aware of this: to remove the fuel tank completely, first remove the two rear tank screws but only loosen the front bolts slightly.

Good tip. You can actually leave the front bolts alone if you wanted... the tank will pivot with just the rear bolts removed.

[keithu]

46 minutes ago, piotrek said:

2019 GT. May be a little early for either of these two things. Winter up here is probably the best time to be changing the filter anyway, as part of other maintenance. I would not be doing that mid-season.

Every season is riding season! It's only rain, your bike won't melt. 🙂

If it's too early to change the plugs or clutch cable, it's certainly too early to change the air filter, too. My point was just that you might as well do all of them together. 

[piotrek]

2 hours ago, keithu said:

Every season is riding season!...

LOL... I wish. I have no desire or need to slosh around in snow in freezing temps.

Edited July 22, 2020 by piotrek

[BBB]

7 hours ago, keithu said:

 It's only rain, your bike won't melt. 🙂

It won’t dissolve either 🤪

[texscottyd]

15 hours ago, BBB said:

It won’t dissolve either 🤪

I owned a Ducati Paso, and therefore question the validity of this statement...   

[Wintersdark]

On 7/4/2019 at 11:35 PM, norcal616 said:

I replace the air filter once a year but no more than 6k miles (2 oil changes)...

All the high end filters such as KN, BMC is a waste of money ( approx $80 for filter, than $30 or so for recharging oils/cleaners,etc) when OEM is $20 or less and less hassle

If anything I want a Hordpower Airbox for the FJ-09 like the airbox for the FZ-07 😍-- you think a tuned/piped FJ-09 is fast- but a proper airbox(sans noise regs, etc) will let the little ole CP3 truly shine with huge mid-top end gain... 

Also, that Hordpower airbox on the MT07 looks amazing.  I'd love one on my Tracer.

[Wintersdark]

On 7/20/2020 at 6:07 PM, WKE002 said:

tempting to get either K&N or BMC, see the service manual, a bit more work needed to gain access to the Air Filter. 

Seat Removal, Tank Removal, ECU removal.... coming from a NOOB, it looks scientific complicated. appreciate any tips to be aware of certain parts to be extra careful. service manual was not really clear or maybe i did not catch what its trying to explain, especially on the tank removal, i dont see if any fuel hose to be disconnect as that could get messy if need to remove, coming from my noob diy. 

 

I made a post about doing the throttle body sync here: 

Getting at the airbox is basically the same; just stop after you remove the ECU and open the airbox rather than removing it.  Seems like it's a big deal, and it takes a long time the first time you do it, but it's actually very simple.  Gotta remove a lot of plastics but it's really easy to do.  Just need to be coordinated about which screws go with which panels, as they all have their own different fasteners.