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I've had 4 chain driven bikes in the last decade, so I've adjusted chain slack often.  The GT seems different to me though in that the slack before and after torquing the axle nut varies as much as 7 mm.  That seems like a lot.  Are others seeing this much variance?

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I didn't measure how much but I noticed early on that the chain tightens considerably after torquing the axle nut. So yes, I agree with you 

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I can’t say enough how important chain slack is to this bike in particular. It is one of the fundamental adjustments and effects a lot on this bike. Case in point.  I just installed these two days ago. Had to pull the swing arm pivot rod out as part of the process. It slides right out with the proper tension of the rear wheel. All back together. 1st ride. Love the rear set. But the bike did not feel normal at all. Clutch felt like it was catching hard, bike was jerking on engine braking. All wrong. WTF I say. Drive back home. Look at chain and say “that seems a little loose”. Yup. Probably 2-3mm tops slack added due to the swing arm removal. Set it back my normal, got on the bike and was like and immediately after leaving the driveway, bike was back to its old badass self. Booting new kicks. 

285A4073-F177-403E-907B-D69262947F35.jpeg

93B012EC-F992-453A-B834-CA20DEA168C6.jpeg

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27 minutes ago, coachluciano said:

 I just installed these two days ago. Had to pull the swing arm pivot rod out as part of the process.

 

93B012EC-F992-453A-B834-CA20DEA168C6.jpeg

Those rear-sets look nice.  Do they not have the rear brake light switch?

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1 hour ago, dbeau said:

I didn't measure how much but I noticed early on that the chain tightens considerably after torquing the axle nut. So yes, I agree with you 

Don't know if others do this, but after adjusting the slack and before I tighten the axle nut, I jam a rolled up old t-shirt or a couple of cloth shop rags between the bottom chain and the sprocket, then tighten the axle nut.  Don't know how it works, only that it works.  The sprocket will move a tiny bit into the rolled t-shirt and then stop.  Doesn't hurt the chain or sprocket and still maintains the slack that I've adjusted.  Been doing this for all my past and current chain-driven bikes.  Works very well for me.

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2013 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 (Juliette)
2013 Yamaha FJR 1300 (Rachel)
2008 Suzuki Bandit 1250S (Fiona)
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2005 Suzuki V-Strom DL650 (Hannah)
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24 minutes ago, betoney said:

Those rear-sets look nice.  Do they not have the rear brake light switch?

Indeed they do. All tucked nicely behind the master cylinder. 

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2 hours ago, dbeau said:

I didn't measure how much but I noticed early on that the chain tightens considerably after torquing the axle nut. So yes, I agree with you 

 One of the reasons I installed the Lighttech chain adjuster kits. Expensive but work really well.


He who dies with the most toys wins.

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14 minutes ago, roadrash83 said:

 One of the reasons I installed the Lighttech chain adjuster kits. Expensive but work really well.

Stock chain tensioner belongs in the garage with the rest of the stock crap Yamaha neglected to keep in-line with what this bikes performance. Giles make top of the line chain tensioner for this bike. I have one. I know nothing  about chain moving while tightening axel bolt. Lol. 

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Eh, I just leave a little extra slack before tightening the axle. Works for me.

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I barely crack the axle nut loose to adjust chain, just enough to use a tiny bit of effort to adjust blocks using chain alingment tool... I adjust my chain when it's warm also... 

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