Corroded exhaust header clamps

[v1nn1e]

I know mine wasn't garaged for the first year or two of its life but even so, the brackets/clamps and nuts that hold the exhaust headers into the cylinder head are mighty corroded.

I've been lathering them in ACF50 at every opportunity in the hope it may make a little difference.

I assume these are swaged in place when the header piping assembly is made up and so cannot be changed without a new set of header pipes...?

 

[builderbob]

Sounds like the perfect excuse to upgrade your exhaust!

You're right though, that piece cannot be replaced individually.

[BBB]

Mine were exactly the same, corroded to hell. Putting aside the ugliness, they were so bad that one of the studs sheared off when I took the headers off and I had to drill and tap the head. ACF50 will help stem any future corrosion but won’t address the state they are in now.

Whilst I had my exhaust off I cleaned as much corrosion off as I could with a wire brush and fitted new studs and nuts, which are sprayed in ACF50 regularly to try and avoid future problems. I can’t see how you change the clamps without cutting the header pipes and rewelding or changing the headers completely.

I feel your pain 😥

[v1nn1e]

Yeah, the issue with attempting a replacement is exactly that - sheared stud!

I'll continue the ACF50 and also intersperse with WD40 and whatever penetrating fluid I can lay my hands on. Hopefully, as, when and if I need to remove them, they'll come off! 😖

[v1nn1e]

BTW, for bringing your old stainless pipes up to new and shiny, there's little to beat Harpic loo cleaner.

Paint on with a brush, leave for 30 minutes or so, then use a plastic kitchen scourer. Finish up with some Solvol Autosol.

Make sure none goes on the engine or anywhere else and rinse off thoroughly with a hose!

[Dodgy Knees]

I've been using acf50 for a few years now, some say apply 2 or 3 time's a year, others say after every wash, preventing rust starting and killing any already there. However, I do wonder if hot engines and header's are really worth it, as it all seems to burn off on start up. Maybe if storing for winter or laying up for a while might make better sense.

My bikes only got 1200 miles on it and the downpipes already look a mess. I do like the look when applied, even on plastics, but hot bits, I'm not too sure....or am I doing something wrong.???

Front fender extender seems to do f- - k all to help either.

Loving the bike tho.

[v1nn1e]

Yeah, you get burn-off when the engine is started as everything hots up - it was like a bonfire down there after my latest round! 😆

I do apply the ACF50 when the bike is cold and assume it's primarily working only until the next start-up. 

I don't put ACF50 on the actual pipes, just the clamp plates and nuts that secure them, which appear to be mild steel rather than stainless.

 

[cozza]

On this subject does anybody know the thread size, would I be correct with M8?

Many thanks.

[2and3cylinders]

 For corroded fastener removal I use PB Blaster

 

Being somewhat of a fastener expert I have found for removal of corroded threaded fasteners, That vibration induced relatively gently with a air hammer at the end of the fastener will loosen up and breakdown the corrosion.

Applying dry ice to the stud and heat to the threaded Body and judicious use of counter clockwise force at the same time Has been successful more often than not.