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What is a good way to improve the brakes on a ‘15 FJ-09?  Are there better pads or do I need to replace parts( calipers, master cylinder, brake lines)?  I’d like to start with a simple fix but will take it as far as needed. Thanks

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Change fluid if it's over 2yrs old, bleed em good...

Next solution is some HH pads

Next is caliper spacers to run 320mm rotors 😁

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2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp

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Posted (edited)

Installing upgraded pads will usually make a noticeable improvement.  It is also very easy to do.  There are several brands to choose from that will improve initial bite and overall performance.  I prefer Vesrah brake pads but they are among the most expensive.  

Edited by johnmark101

There is noting like spending a day riding with friends in the grip of a shared obsession.

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Brake pads are the way to go.  Then SS lines. After that a Master Cylinder. Then finally rotors IMO.

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'15 FJ09

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Posted (edited)

Renewing the brake fluid is a top tip and something which is often ignored. Brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air over time. Changing every 24 months is deffo worthwhile and isn't a difficult job. Changing even more frequently than that at say 12 months interval is also worthwhile as it maintains 100% braking effiency.

I do this. Obtain a syringe, something like this use that to remove as much brake fluid as possible from both the front and rear master cylinder reservoirs.

Then, get a very simple one-man-bleeder, something like this - top up the BF res' to the max, then use the one-man-bleeder to bleed through the topped up and keep topping it up as you bleed the old fluid until enough has passed through to replace the original brake fluid with lovely fresh DOT4. DO NOT allow the BF res' level to drop below the minimum level as you risk drawing air into the system which will only need to be bleed out again. Keep topping up. Take your time, use plenty rags to protect from any spills as brake fluid will damage painted surfaces. You MUST also wear gloves and eye protection as you really really don't want to get brake fulid in your eye(s). Clean up any spills on the bike with water.

If this scares you. Get your local friendly motorcycle mechanic to do it. Never try and save money on brakes as that's a fools errand.

As for brake pads. I've used both SBS and Brembo with good results. Sintered pads work better but can cause brake discs to wear faster depending on your use? Brake discs are consumables though so expect they will need replaced at higher mileages.

The fact you care about your brakes is a good thing which I share and support. Happy stopping.

 

Edited by SortedGT
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The brake fluid is new and brakes are bled.  My part time retirement gig is at a bike shop where I spend 1 day a week on the sales floor and a couple days a week wrenching in the shop.  I must compliment SortedGT on his instructions on replacing brake fluid and bleeding brakes.  As one who does the job often(with the benefit of vacuum pumps ect ) I must say SortedGTs instructions/description of the job is one of the best I’ve ever read and I read shop manuals for entertainment!  I would strongly suggest anyone who sets out to bleed their own brakes reads it before starting.  SortedGT THANKS for the effort. 

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@donk - At the risk of just repeating what’s already been said, I would start with good brake pads and a thorough flush & bleed of the system.  

I have the 320mm EBC rotors & HH pads on my FJ, and while I love the package upgrade, I suspect that the pads alone would have yielded about 80% of the benefits.   With my current setup the brakes are very good, but still not what I would call truly outstanding... I have a set of Galfer lines to install, but I think that’s as far as I will go with the brake project. 

Next step would be swapping master cylinder and calipers, which I don’t think I’m going to pursue.   Well, probably not...  :)  

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I put in the Spiegler lines, 2014 R-1 320 rotors and MC with Vesrah RJL pads but had to replace the pads (went with EBC HH+) when my Forks by Matt compression screw o-ring leaked all over the left rotor and caliper. What a pain in the ass that was cuz I had to rebuild the left Fork.

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