HELP! Bike will not start...

[betoney]

@wordsmith - So glad the issue is fixed and it was a simple remedy!

@skipperT and @StealthAu - Thanks for helping a stranded rider - Good job.  This site and its members are the best. 👍

Other readers (myself included) will hopefully catalog the knowledge for future use.

[skipperT]

6 hours ago, StealthAu said:

Not holding it at 1/4. open it a crack, hit the crank and if it doesn't fire, roll it on. What I was implying is that it will typically fire before the throttle is at 1/4 open. Not saying to stop at 1/4 if it doesn't fire, just minimise the time on the starter. 

There will be a note in the owners manual referencing not to run the starter extensively. Typically it'll say 8-10 seconds, I say 5 erring on the side of caution.

I've bought cheap bikes in past where the plugs fowling inevitably ended with seized startors. I'm sure it takes a lot of abuse to get there, still, play it safe. 

Another thought occurred to me: Yamaha’s got you beat mate: it doesn’t matter if you go 1/4 throttle just slightly crack it.... the YCCT programming only opens the butterflies as much as it’s programmed to based on CKP speed, IAP sensor data, and APS data. 
However some bikes are programmed to shut of the injectors when the throttle is held Wide Open, because that’s the correct position for a compression test. Not all mechanics remember to unplug the fuel pump before performing this test. 
 

To get a better understanding of how the YCCT will only perform certain throttle plate movements, try manipulating the throttle control with the engine off, and while cranking with the air box off so you can watch the throttle plates. 
 

-S

[candave650]

Hard start or no start is a common Yamaha problem (see Super Tenere Forum) and is usually cured by cranking with throttle WFO or new battery.

Glad it is resolved

 

[StealthAu]

8 hours ago, skipperT said:

Another thought occurred to me: Yamaha’s got you beat mate: it doesn’t matter if you go 1/4 throttle just slightly crack it.... the YCCT programming only opens the butterflies as much as it’s programmed to based on CKP speed, IAP sensor data, and APS data. 
However some bikes are programmed to shut of the injectors when the throttle is held Wide Open, because that’s the correct position for a compression test. Not all mechanics remember to unplug the fuel pump before performing this test. 
 

To get a better understanding of how the YCCT will only perform certain throttle plate movements, try manipulating the throttle control with the engine off, and while cranking with the air box off so you can watch the throttle plates. 
 

-S

I have cold start issues now and then. Results from short rides with a cold engine. 

What I said, works for me in these situations. I get what you are saying though, on other bikes with ride by wire in the same situation required manual opening of the throttle valves.

[wordsmith]

Bike started first time this (early) morning.   On the first start, with throttle about 1/2" wound open, it revved its guts out before I could stop it, just as yesterday.   I waited a few seconds, tried again - same throttle-opening - and it started perfectly.  I let it fast run and warm up while donning my riding gear, and proceeded for the day with no further troubles. 

As Gen Douglas MacArthur famously said when accepting the surrender of Japanese forces at the end of WWII - "these proceedings are now concluded".   

But I have printed and shall keep some of these words of wisdom, for which again - thanks.

[skipperT]

Glad it started, Wordsmith. But I would revert back to the proper way of starting any FI bike: don’t touch the throttle, turn the key on and press button. Should crack right off  

-S

[wordsmith]

1 hour ago, skipperT said:

Glad it started, Wordsmith. But I would revert back to the proper way of starting any FI bike: don’t touch the throttle, turn the key on and press button. Should crack right off  

-S

That's exactly what I always have done as routine.   Never before had any issues like this - it has taken years off me!  ☹️

[yzpilot]

If I ride my 2015 FJ-09 California bike daily, the bike fires right up in the mornings.  If I garage it for a few days, then I have to use the 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle or the wide open throttle method as you guys mentioned to get the bike to light up, and then it revs to the moon and I poop my pants as I back off the throttle and try to keep it idling until it warms up a tad to idle on its own and I can release the throttle.  Is this going to be the normal process until I retire the bike?  Fouled plugs?  Weak battery (original battery)?

[norcal616]

14 minutes ago, yzpilot said:

If I ride my 2015 FJ-09 California bike daily, the bike fires right up in the mornings.  If I garage it for a few days, then I have to use the 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle or the wide open throttle method as you guys mentioned to get the bike to light up, and then it revs to the moon and I poop my pants as I back off the throttle and try to keep it idling until it warms up a tad to idle on its own and I can release the throttle.  Is this going to be the normal process until I retire the bike?  Fouled plugs?  Weak battery (original battery)?

Shouldn't have to apply throttle to start... generally OEM battery last approx 3-4yrs(never put on tender during winter months but ride daily during summer type of deal)... yes a battery tender may show full charge on an older battery but battery may not have enough AMPs to fire the bike up correctly...