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Tracer 900 GT Clutch Adjustment


SC3896

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I have only travelled 660 miles but my clutch lever is at its max adjustment.

I can't adjust the cable st the engine end as the top adustment nut is at the top of the adjustment limit on the cable sheath and hidden inside the bracket between the top nut and the lock nut shop I can't hey to the top nut. 

Does anyone have any ideas as to how i can get at the top nut ? 

I've tried pushing up the cable sheath but it doesn't move at all. 

Thanks in advance. 

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6 hours ago, SC3896 said:

I have only travelled 660 miles but my clutch lever is at its max adjustment.

I can't adjust the cable st the engine end as the top adustment nut is at the top of the adjustment limit on the cable sheath and hidden inside the bracket between the top nut and the lock nut shop I can't hey to the top nut. 

Does anyone have any ideas as to how i can get at the top nut ? 

I've tried pushing up the cable sheath but it doesn't move at all. 

Thanks in advance. 

I think this is what you're referring to? - On my 2015 bike the cable just pops out of the 'U' shaped housing which allows you access to the top nut.  Have you released the actual cable from the clutch pull lever first?   It's (more) difficult to get the cable sheath out of the housing if you haven't.

Once it's out you can adjust away to your hearts content.  You may have to fiddle with the top adjustment (at the handlebars) to get it tuned of course.

Hope that helps?

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Thank you for your replies.  I have now been able to correct the cable adjustment myself. 

I think I must have had brain fade when I started this topic as the answer to getting access to the clutch cable top nut at the engine end,  was very easily solved by fully loosening off the cable at the clutch lever and then pushing the cable sheath out of the engine end bracket,  which allowed fully and easy access to the top adjusting nut.

A simple task made impossibly confusing by my brain fade. 🤪

20191208_122637~01~2.jpg

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I didn't  have any trouble  getting  the  cable out, but I can't seem  to get the cable adjusted to my liking.  I want the bike to start moving  when I start releasing  the clutch handle, but everytime I get it adjusted to my liking,  the clutch lever is super loose and when I adjust the knob by the lever, it puts me right back where I was, which is roughly  about half way out on the clutch lever before  the bike starts moving. Any ideas??

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20 minutes ago, showmerider said:

I didn't  have any trouble  getting  the  cable out, but I can't seem  to get the cable adjusted to my liking.  I want the bike to start moving  when I start releasing  the clutch handle, but everytime I get it adjusted to my liking,  the clutch lever is super loose and when I adjust the knob by the lever, it puts me right back where I was, which is roughly  about half way out on the clutch lever before  the bike starts moving. Any ideas??

Have you tried adjusting (taking up slack) on the lower cable adjuster?  You could also try moving the actuating arm one tooth so the clutch actuation is sooner in the lever travel.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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I've tried  adjusting the lower end several times and once I get it where I like it, the clutch lever is way too loose and after I adjust the lever  to have the proper play, I'm back where I started. I haven't  tried moving the acuating arm yet. For some reason I was thinking that had a crimped on piece of metal that  I wouldn't  be able to move, but I will look at that again.  I even took it to as local dealer and the tech said he couldn't  adjust it to where I want it and my only option  would  be an adjustable  clutch lever. But to me that doesn't  change anything  but the distance that my fingers extend out to pull thr lever. Am I wrong?

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@showmerider - To be fair, not all bikes have identical clutch actuation, I have ridden some that grab as soon as you begin releasing the lever and some that grab halfway through the travel.  Same thing with vehicles, I have been driving manual transmissions for almost 40 years and some clutches are hyper sensitive and others are extremely forgiving.

I have always used adjustable levers and agree with your mechanic, that might be the key to getting it to feel the way you like, or at least close. 

If you have it so it feels close but the cable is loose that tells me that it feels correct to you when the lever is closer to the bar, with adjustable levers you can set the correct cable tension and then adjust the lever closer to the bar as well.  They usually have 5 or 6 positions and even though I have larger hands I have my clutch lever set at the 1st or 2nd position closest to the bar.

Edited by betoney

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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I appreciate  your help and will be on the lookout  for some good adjustable levers, any suggestions? I've been riding bikes for about 40 years now and this is the first bike that I can recall that I've  had an issue  with  the  clutch that i couldn't  get adjusted to my liking. Thanks again  for your  advice 

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19 minutes ago, showmerider said:

I appreciate  your help and will be on the lookout  for some good adjustable levers, any suggestions? I've been riding bikes for about 40 years now and this is the first bike that I can recall that I've  had an issue  with  the  clutch that i couldn't  get adjusted to my liking. Thanks again  for your  advice 

s-l400.jpg

Yamaha FJ-09/MT-09 Tracer 2015-2019. Levers 2 (Brake & Clutch levers)...

 

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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9 hours ago, showmerider said:

I followed your link and put in my bike, '19 tracer 900, and it say sc it doesn't  fit my bike. I'll  keep  looking.  Thanks again  for your  help 

The Ebay description might not list the '19 Tracer but a lot of Yamaha levers are cross-compatible.  I was checking out the Pazzo fitment guide and the same lever fits the FZ09/MT09, FJ09/Tracer, XSR700/900, FZ-07/MT-07, FZ10/MT10, FZ1 Fazer, FZ8, FZ6, Niken and certain year R6 and R1.

***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Adjustable levers are really useful and I have them on both brake and clutch side. I started with cheap ebay versions, which are easy to find and they were great for a while but they became loose around the pivot point and started to get a lot of vertical movement when pulling the levers.

As it would be pretty disastrous if a brake lever failed, just when you needed it, I swapped to ASV which are around £100 a side but feel much more stable. I don’t mind buying cheap, non-critical parts, but this was an area I feel worth the spend.

I’m sure others will have a better experience than mine of ebay levers.

The other point of swapping levers is to change the length. After trying multiple versions I now have a standard length adjustable clutch lever (the shorties require too much force on only a few fingers) but a shortie adjustable brake lever.

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Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...)

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