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Tracer 900 GT Clutch Adjustment

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On 1/25/2020 at 7:54 AM, vincep said:

Careful.  Adjustable levers need to take into account the GTs cruise control.  There have been other listings on this site where the MT/FJ09 levers have not worked.

I know when I apply the front brake on my GT I hear two distinct clicks - I think there may be two micro switches in there.

Maybe a little late for this...But I had this problem with my GT900.  I bought aftermarket adjustable brake and clutch levers from Ebay.  Then, found my cruise control wasn't working.  I could hear one distinctive click when I released the lever.  I took my bike to a Yamaha dealer and he diagnosed it as the clutch lever causing the problem, and showed me there should be TWO distinctive clicks from the switch on the clutch lever side.  I swapped back to the original lever.  Got two clicks, and the cruise control worked fine again.

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On 12/8/2019 at 11:13 PM, betoney said:

Have you tried adjusting (taking up slack) on the lower cable adjuster?  You could also try moving the actuating arm one tooth so the clutch actuation is sooner in the lever travel.

Well, I also have a 2015 Candy Red Tracer :) and I also am having a bear of a time trying to adjust the clutch cable; there seems to be no adjustment that will pull the clutch in, it almost look like my actuator arm is slipping?? When I think that I have it aligned with the arrow, I actuate my lever, check that I am not coming out of gear, look at the bottom end actuating lever again and sure enough, it's backed about 10-12 degrees What gives? I have never pulled the clutch cover or done anything to the actuator. Just replaced my stock levers for Pazzos.

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29 minutes ago, helene said:

Well, I also have a 2015 Candy Red Tracer :) and I also am having a bear of a time trying to adjust the clutch cable; there seems to be no adjustment that will pull the clutch in, it almost look like my actuator arm is slipping?? When I think that I have it aligned with the arrow, I actuate my lever, check that I am not coming out of gear, look at the bottom end actuating lever again and sure enough, it's backed about 10-12 degrees What gives? I have never pulled the clutch cover or done anything to the actuator. Just replaced my stock levers for Pazzos.

If the clutch was working correctly before replacing the levers then it has to be an adjustment issue. The only adjustment you need to make to replace the clutch lever is backing out the adjuster at the lever to get enough slack to remove the lever from the perch.  There shouldn't have been any adjustments done to the bottom of the cable or the actuator arm.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Do you still have the original cable @helene? The part number for 2015 was upgraded due to early wear on the cable as it bends through a too tight curve.


Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...

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1 hour ago, betoney said:

If the clutch was working correctly before replacing the levers then it has to be an adjustment issue. The only adjustment you need to make to replace the clutch lever is backing out the adjuster at the lever to get enough slack to remove the lever from the perch.  There shouldn't have been any adjustments done to the bottom of the cable or the actuator arm.

I'll try again tomorrow. If all else fails I will replace the clutch cable, as I've always chafed at the ridiculous kink it has, past the overly long rigid tube and ferrule coming out of the perch. This has to be one of the ugliest kludges I have seen from factory... that and the soft aluminium rear axle adjuster blocks... otherwise brilliant engine and more fun than expected.

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I too am of the opinion that the clutch grab point is not soon enough and I have to let the handle out to far before it grabs.  I find myself over revving at take off sometimes.  Its odd that this is the first bike out of many that I could not get the adjustment 'perfect' for me.

I am wondering tho if rotating the clutch actuator arm 1 tooth would help?

It seems that in my case and others, when we get the clutch adjusted to our liking we have to much play in the clutch handle.  Wouldn't rotating the arm 1 tooth take up that slack?  Or am I thinking in circles?

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Just buy proper adjustable levers and quit dicking around. I had no problem finding them for my 2020.

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6 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Just buy proper adjustable levers and quit dicking around. I had no problem finding them for my 2020.

Assuming that the cable is already adjusted correctly, adjustable levers wont change the clutch actuation point.  The pivot mount and lever are 2 separate pieces and adjust independently, the lever adjuster only affects the reach to the bars.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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1 minute ago, betoney said:

Assuming that the cable is already adjusted correctly, adjustable levers wont change the clutch actuation point.  The pivot mount and lever are 2 separate pieces and adjust independently, the lever adjuster only affects the reach to the bars.

By moving the cluch lever closer to the bars, you are adjusting the clutch friction zone relative to the bar. You just loose full stroke.

No magic here.

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25 minutes ago, iitywygms said:

I am wondering tho if rotating the clutch actuator arm 1 tooth would help?

It seems that in my case and others, when we get the clutch adjusted to our liking we have to much play in the clutch handle.  Wouldn't rotating the arm 1 tooth take up that slack?  Or am I thinking in circles?

That shouldn't cause an issue as long as you still have the required slack at the lever.

I installed the R3 pivot arm on mine, its about 3/8" longer than stock so has better leverage, I installed the actuating arm offset by 1 tooth and have used it that way for thousands of miles without issue.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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1 minute ago, betoney said:

I installed the R3 pivot arm on mine, its about 3/8" longer than stock so has better leverage, I installed the actuating arm offset by 1 tooth and have used it that way for thousands of miles without issue.

Sweet.  Have a part number for the R3 pivot arm?

And I have not done it yet.  I assume all I have to do is remove the upper retaining clip to get the actuator arm off?

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Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Just buy proper adjustable levers and quit dicking around. I had no problem finding them for my 2020.

Already on order.  What did you get?  Did they fit well?

Edited by iitywygms
spelling

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5 minutes ago, iitywygms said:

Sweet.  Have a part number for the R3 pivot arm?

And I have not done it yet.  I assume all I have to do is remove the upper retaining clip to get the actuator arm off?

 

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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Just a warning, if you go with a longer arm on the selector, you will have to have a longer pull on your clutch. For those with small hands as myself, wanting a cluch release just off the bars, a longer selector does not bode well.

Ill never understand why others have a hard time conveying this, maybe it's me. It's levers, cams, and rope. Plain and simple. Clutch is on, off and a set distance traveled between.

You can add a bigger selector arm for less force, but this will require longer travel. But then you might loose out on full disengage, especially with a shallow adjusted lever.

You can add a shorter selector, requires more force, but less travel. This is essentially floppy time as the draw is now even shorter with stock levers.


Either way you go. there is only one economical way to adjust the friction zone relative to the bars without pushing rope, adjustable levers.


Bonus points for anyone that can find me a shorter selector arm but frankly I'm not sure my hands could take the abuse. Would love 1/2 -3/4 inch of travel between full off/on with the clutch.

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38 minutes ago, kilo3 said:

Just a warning, if you go with a longer arm on the selector, you will have to have a longer pull on your clutch. For those with small hands as myself, wanting a cluch release just off the bars, a longer selector does not bode well.

Ill never understand why others have a hard time conveying this, maybe it's me. It's levers, cams, and rope. Plain and simple. Clutch is on, off and a set distance traveled between.

 

That is why we were discussing moving the arm offset by 1 tooth.

I put the longer arm on, adjusted the Pazzo lever so it is on 1 - closest to the bar.  The actuation is at the last half of the lever travel where I want it to be.


***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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