Rear Brake Light Switch Problem

[betoney]

6 minutes ago, coachluciano said:

No - you need the proper switch out of the gate.

I am hoping that since it is a rear brake switch specifically for motorcycles that it is the "proper switch".

[coachluciano]

4 minutes ago, betoney said:

I am hoping that since it is a rear brake switch specifically for motorcycles that it is the "proper switch".

agreed

[texscottyd]

29 minutes ago, coachluciano said:

I think I just found my next project - lol

Just so you know, admitting you have a problem is the first step to getting help... 

 

[roadrash83]

21 hours ago, betoney said:

Has anyone completely replaced the problematic plunger switch with a hydraulic actuated switch?

No exposed parts to get dirty or corroded.  Looks interesting.

Vortex Rear Brake Light Switch - Sportbike Track Gear

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Purchase the Vortex Rear Brake Light Switch from...

 

 I am currently using hydraulic brake light switches on two of my builds and no problems. Given the choice I would have used contact switches but no provisions on the brake masters, they just look cleaner to me. I have heard of stories of them leaking and I was also told to keep the brake fluid fresh.

[betoney]

On 12/11/2019 at 8:14 AM, coachluciano said:

No - you need the proper switch out of the gate.  My guess is rear brake is like front brake and uses a normally open switch (which the hydraulic is), but if it's wired in series with anything else in the circuit, that may not be the case. I'll put a meter on mine when I get home. Then we will know.  I also have same hydraulic switch as noted above from my clutch project. I have me rear Speigler lines waiting to be installed.  I think I just found my next project - lol

I installed the switch this morning, no issues.  It is such a better design than the factory switch, no exposed parts, no adjustment to get it to engage, it just works.  👍

You can see how much road grime and crud is clogging the original switch.

[texscottyd]

That looks really clean & simple @betoney.  I should definitely do that when I have it apart to install the steel brake lines.  

Which switch did you actually purchase?   That looks like a 90 degree model, but I don’t see the FJ specifically listed anywhere from that Vortex link.  

Thanks in advance! 

[betoney]

26 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

That looks really clean & simple @betoney.  I should definitely do that when I have it apart to install the steel brake lines.  

Which switch did you actually purchase?   That looks like a 90 degree model, but I don’t see the FJ specifically listed anywhere from that Vortex link.  

Thanks in advance! 

I bought the Spiegler switch (M10x1.25).  I like the 90 degree angle, cleaner looking install IMO.

Spiegler Brake Light Switch

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Out of all the hydraulic brake light switches on the market, there's only one...

 

[coachluciano]

Sweet - Will be doing that for sure and it solves a slightly different problem I had ever since I added the MPG rearset.  Always had problems "adjusting" so it was consistent.  One thing that had me concerned is the fact it's 90 degrees and wondered how it would line up so it pointed in the proper direction.  I see @betoney  you had no issues.  Does the bango bolt also have the nice "Spiegler" rotation capability? 

[betoney]

2 hours ago, coachluciano said:

One thing that had me concerned is the fact it's 90 degrees and wondered how it would line up so it pointed in the proper direction.  I see @betoney  you had no issues.  Does the bango bolt also have the nice "Spiegler" rotation capability? 

That had me concerned as well, I had to clock it so it was tight at the angle I wanted.  The nut DOES NOT turn independently from the switch assembly, that would be too easy.

I tried it a few times and would start the threads 90 degree differently each time if that makes sense.  What worked for me was starting with the switch pointing toward me as I worked beside the bike, looking from the top would be 6 o'clock orientation. YMMV.

[betoney]

2 hours ago, coachluciano said:

Always had problems "adjusting" so it was consistent.

The factory switch on mine was very sticky with road debris and oils.  Over the years I had cleaned it a few times and adjusted it numerous times to get proper actuation.  My adjuster was at the max end of adjustment but that does nothing if the plunger switch is clogged and stuck.  Those issues are now a thing of the past!  👍

[Scooter426]

Looks like a pro install.  Nice work!  I can see that this is on my "to do" list now.  Maybe we can talk Yamaha into adding this to the list for updates on the next generation FJ.

[Tracer1]

Hi I’ve only just joined so sorry if it’s already been said. I noticed whilst relieving the boredom of lock down that my rear brake didn’t light up unless the pedal was almost fully down. I bought the rear brake lever up probably about 5mm using the adjustment rod  and now works at the slightest touch.

[betoney]

44 minutes ago, Tracer1 said:

Hi I’ve only just joined so sorry if it’s already been said. I noticed whilst relieving the boredom of lock down that my rear brake didn’t light up unless the pedal was almost fully down. I bought the rear brake lever up probably about 5mm using the adjustment rod  and now works at the slightest touch.

Those brake switches are prone to getting clogged up with oils and road debris and not functioning correctly.  I switched to a hydraulic switch with no exposed moving parts to fail. - $20

Spiegler Brake Light Switch

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Out of all the hydraulic brake light switches on the market, there's only one...

[2and3cylinders]

So is the Speigler switch normally open, I don't know how you clocked it, as crush washer thickness only varies slightly, and where do the Ieads plug in, and did they need to be spliced into an OEM 2-wire plug???  I have seen several straight up hydraulic switches but none are adjustable for activation point.   Question is, maintenance of the OEM mechanical contact switch (I use dielectric grease and a short length of closed-cell PE round joint filler used for backing up elastomeric joint sealant as a plug) with adjustability versus a hydraulic switch that can leak and also fail with no adjustability.

[betoney]

2 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

So is the Speigler switch normally open, I don't know how you clocked it, as crush washer thickness only varies slightly, and where do the Ieads plug in, and did they need to be spliced into an OEM 2-wire plug???  I have seen several straight up hydraulic switches but none are adjustable for activation point.   Question is, maintenance of the OEM mechanical contact switch (I use dielectric grease and a short length of closed-cell PE round joint filler used for backing up elastomeric joint sealant as a plug) with adjustability versus a hydraulic switch that can leak and also fail with no adjustability.

It splices into the existing brake switch wiring, 2 leads.  It doesn't have an activation point, it simply works.  I'm not sure how or why the switch would ever leak but I suppose given enough time anything is possible?