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@dazzler24 - Wow, if you have the tools, diagrams and know-how to use parts to make your own switch then more power to you, that is awesome.  Getting their diagram to figure the pin out is the largest stumbling block.

Looking at the two switch blocks, they look identical except for the blanked out panels, the buttons should fit right in.  Keep us updated with progress on this project.


***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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1 hour ago, betoney said:

@dazzler24 - Wow, if you have the tools, diagrams and know-how to use parts to make your own switch then more power to you, that is awesome.  Getting their diagram to figure the pin out is the largest stumbling block.

Looking at the two switch blocks, they look identical except for the blanked out panels, the buttons should fit right in.  Keep us updated with progress on this project.

@betoney - I'd love to be able to source a wrecked bike's switch block at the right price but getting hold of one at any price, second hand, here in Oz seems difficult.  If there's anyone in North America that would like to send one my way to test the proof of concept then I'm willing to pay - as long as I don't have to go back to work to pay for it of course 🙂

I checked out the prices of new blocks here and while still expensive it would be far cheaper - and I mean by around AU$200 - to buy from the US (Part Shark e.g.) and have it posted to me?!  Why? - seems crazy to me???  Anyway, the price of a new block at around just over a third of the price of the whole McCruise system, just to extract two switches, makes that option prohibitive to me but a second hand one at the right (read sensible) price, may be worth it.

Otherwise third-party switches may be the answer.  Stay tuned.....

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I'm sure y'all can source a 3rd party switch and wire it up... follow which color wires go where and whatnot inside the switch...

both McCruise and Brandon Dist used the same black box with the cruise control hardware but used different wiring harnesses/connections... 

I have an older Cruise Control from Brandon dist which has a slim switch block from TrailTech(?) I believe the brand was that I saw on the box... 

20200207_225517.thumb.jpg.a9cd13c0d20aa7ed83c94a23c2e54d39.jpg

 

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2012 wr250f - C-class 30+ age group
2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition-80whp
2015 fj-09- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich tune by 2WDW @120whp

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Oh boy is this great!😎

20200211_165515.jpg

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"It doesn't matter who walks in, you know the joke is still the same"  Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. USA

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5 hours ago, fddriver2 said:

Oh boy is this great!😎

20200211_165515.jpg

@2and3cylinders - That was a quick delivery! The McCruise crew are efficient so that shouldn't surprise me.

Have you decided where/how you're going to mount that slim switch?

On another note I've got all of my parts together for integrating the controls into the existing control pod and have made a start.

Parts.thumb.jpg.d7531a1369beaf3b7e4ecc73927f6208.jpg

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P.S. Should have mentioned and just a footnote, I don't need all of the packaged items above .....  It's just that I had to buy them as a pack....FWIW and if anyone was in the slightest way interested. 🙂

Cheers

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Somebody in Skokie is interested but would also would need instructions and a schematic but is a decent solderer...

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BTW, I have a spare oem left switch (except for a cracked richer from when I hit a crane at speed and it slid off the Givi screen and spun the mirror on the Bikemaster  mirror extender which rotated into the rocker) to practice on..

Somebody in Skokie is interested but would also would need instructions and a schematic but is a decent solderer...

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55 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

BTW, I have a spare oem left switch (except for a cracked richer from when I hit a crane at speed and it slid off the Givi screen and spun the mirror on the Bikemaster  mirror extender which rotated into the rocker) to practice on..

Somebody in Skokie is interested but would also would need instructions and a schematic but is a decent solderer...

OK, I read you.  As always there are many, many ways to skin a cat and I am currently in the 'design' phase of my particular version.  What I want to achieve is to not impact upon the existing pod too much so that if I manage to get the Super Ten or FJR switches down the track at a decent price then I will be able to just drop them in replacing my third-party switches with zero impact.

If you have a spare pod then the world is your oyster with how you go about it.  You can hack and chop as much as you like on one pod and leave the other one for the 'real' thing later (if desired)!

In a nutshell, what I'm intending doing over the coming days is to put two IP67 rated push buttons onto the blank panel where the SET/RES OEM rocker switch would go.  These will be my SET/RES switches.  I would have preferred to use a rocker switch but the existing blank panel is angled in way too many places to make it an easy task.

I've also found a power button that will fit into the existing cruise control hole (that has a blanking plate in it currently) without any modification required to the existing pod.

The only change/modification to the pod that I'm prepared to do is to install a bright 5mm tri-colour LED between the power on and SET/RES buttons.  This will require a small ~6-8mm hole drilled.  This will serve as a power ON indicator and a cruise ENGAGED indicator all in one, much like the slim switch provides now.   i.e. Red when power switch is pressed and Orange when cruise is engaged.  There are power switches that incorporate the LED within the switch and that may be an option you may prefer?

Anyway, this is my 'plan' but as the saying goes - The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry. No matter how carefully a project is planned, something may still go wrong with it!

I can certainly provide you with my schematic, once completed, as to how I implement this project but as already mentioned it's still in the incubation stage - pre-hatching 🙂

The components I've purchased here locally in Oz have cost me about AU$20 (~US$14).  To me this is a LOT better than paying around 10x that price for the Super Ten switch module that to get the same result.  YMMV of course in the U.S. and you may prefer the OEM option which would be MUCH easier to implement!  Drop the parts in and solder a few wires and you're good to go.

Are you still with me on this journey.....?

 

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13 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

 

Have you decided where/how you're going to mount that slim switch?

 

The same way @2and3cylinders has it and wait and see what happens with new switch mounts from him and McCruise.


"It doesn't matter who walks in, you know the joke is still the same"  Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. USA

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11 hours ago, fddriver2 said:

The same way @2and3cylinders has it and wait and see what happens with new switch mounts from him and McCruise.

@fddriver2 - Sorry about the earlier response to you receiving the McCruise that I addressed to 2and3cylinders in error, but you have clearly worked out that it was meant for you. 😏

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16 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

OK, I read you.  As always there are many, many ways to skin a cat and I am currently in the 'design' phase of my particular version.  What I want to achieve is to not impact upon the existing pod too much so that if I manage to get the Super Ten or FJR switches down the track at a decent price then I will be able to just drop them in replacing my third-party switches with zero impact.

If you have a spare pod then the world is your oyster with how you go about it.  You can hack and chop as much as you like on one pod and leave the other one for the 'real' thing later (if desired)!

In a nutshell, what I'm intending doing over the coming days is to put two IP67 rated push buttons onto the blank panel where the SET/RES OEM rocker switch would go.  These will be my SET/RES switches.  I would have preferred to use a rocker switch but the existing blank panel is angled in way too many places to make it an easy task.

I've also found a power button that will fit into the existing cruise control hole (that has a blanking plate in it currently) without any modification required to the existing pod.

The only change/modification to the pod that I'm prepared to do is to install a bright 5mm tri-colour LED between the power on and SET/RES buttons.  This will require a small ~6-8mm hole drilled.  This will serve as a power ON indicator and a cruise ENGAGED indicator all in one, much like the slim switch provides now.   i.e. Red when power switch is pressed and Orange when cruise is engaged.  There are power switches that incorporate the LED within the switch and that may be an option you may prefer?

Anyway, this is my 'plan' but as the saying goes - The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry. No matter how carefully a project is planned, something may still go wrong with it!

I can certainly provide you with my schematic, once completed, as to how I implement this project but as already mentioned it's still in the incubation stage - pre-hatching 🙂

The components I've purchased here locally in Oz have cost me about AU$20 (~US$14).  To me this is a LOT better than paying around 10x that price for the Super Ten switch module that to get the same result.  YMMV of course in the U.S. and you may prefer the OEM option which would be MUCH easier to implement!  Drop the parts in and solder a few wires and you're good to go.

Are you still with me on this journey.....?

 

Is this a Super T model and switch that'll work?  Just have to add a on/off/activated light...

2017 YAMAHA SUPER TENERE ES (XTZ12EHL) Switch, Handle 7 2BS-83954-00-00?  For $161.28, it may be worth it if I can fab a patch harness.  Wut ya tink?

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16 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Anyway, this is my 'plan' but as the saying goes - The best-laid plans of mice and men often go awry. No matter how carefully a project is planned, something may still go wrong with it!

Only a few hours after writing the above it would seem the prophesy has come true!  But in a good way.

I've managed to find - stumbled across actually - a second hand FJR control pod at a sensible price that I will now use.  I'll be just using the switches out of it though and transplant them into the original pod.

This will mean I won't be making a harness but wiring it up much the same as I was with the third-party switch arrangement.

Looks like some of my recently purchased parts will go into the 'tinker' box with my other bits and pieces.

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BTW, the Super T from 15 ~ 19 all use the same switch pod.

The 2016~2019 (didn't check 2020 on either) FJR1300s all use FJR Switch, Handle 7 B88-83954-00-00 and at $141.67, it's almost $20 cheaper than the XTZ...

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7 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Is this a Super T model and switch that'll work?  Just have to add a on/off/activated light...

2017 YAMAHA SUPER TENERE ES (XTZ12EHL) Switch, Handle 7 2BS-83954-00-00?  For $161.28, it may be worth it if I can fab a patch harness.  Wut ya tink?

Yes, that's one of the part numbers that is compatible.  See my previous post (a couple of minutes ago) for what I'm doing now.  Much the same as what you are wanting to do by the looks of your question or are you wanting to make it a plug and play harness like McCruise do/did?

Much cheaper to just use the switches out of the new pod.... but to each their own of course.

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