McCruise

[2and3cylinders]

The good ole USPS tried to deliver my McCruise Tuesday and somehow couldn't find the front desk guy to sign for it.  I didn't realize what "Awaiting collection" meant until I robot messaged AP and then called my local PO.  They're supposed to try again tomorrow...grrrr

[dazzler24]

7 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

BTW, the Super T from 15 ~ 19 all use the same switch pod.

The 2016~2019 (didn't check 2020 on either) FJR1300s all use FJR Switch, Handle 7 B88-83954-00-00 and at $141.67, it's almost $20 cheaper than the XTZ...

Agreed and ditto per above.

[2and3cylinders]

41 minutes ago, dazzler24 said:

Agreed and ditto per above.

so, what would you do if you could get the oem pod that cheap?

[2and3cylinders]

Daz,

 

I did your prior let about what you're in the process of attempting before I posted again but please clarify that and "Much cheaper to just use the switches out of the new pod".

[dazzler24]

1 hour ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Daz,

 

I did your prior let about what you're in the process of attempting before I posted again but please clarify that and "Much cheaper to just use the switches out of the new pod".

@2and3cylinders - OK I'll try to clarify what I'm going to do but just so we're clear on what the options are: -

1. Buy a new FJR or Super T pod and install the whole pod including its wiring onto the bike replacing the existing FJ/Tracer pod completely.  This is where (we) would have to make a new harness to enable the new pod to be plug and play and where the expense comes into play.

OR

2. Buy a new FJR or Super T pod but then disassemble it and remove the SET/RES rocker switch and power button and then install those into the existing FJ/Tracer pod removing/replacing the blanking panels in the process of course. - the cheaper option.

 

No. 2 is what I'm intending to do.

Now having said that there are a couple of steps to complete the task to activate the cruise functions and that involves either reusing the cabling from the slim switch and soldering the wires onto the new transplanted switches via selected resistors (where required) and adding the LED also with appropriate resistors OR: -

Recovering the slim switch including its cabling and connector if you don't want to cut that off.   If you choose that option then you will have to do the same as I've just described above but with the addition of a new cable and Molex connector to interface with the McCruise.

FWIW I've decided to re-use the slim switch's cabling and connector as it is already in place and I can't see the need for the slim switch after the changeover so why go to the extra trouble if you don't have to?!  YMMV of course.

Hopefully that answers your question?

There's one other thing that I want to do after the install and that is to reprogram the McCruise to reflect the operation of the new switch markings.  i.e. At the moment the slim switch is arranged so that SET/ACC and RES/DEC are paired thus but the new switch is marked as SET/DEC and RES/ACC.  So opposite to the slim switch.

Two choices - leave the functions the same as the slim switch and just cover up the words SET and RES to remove any confusion OR reprogram the Cruise controller. The instructions to reprogram are there in the instructions so no big deal and a fairly simple process.

Hope that all helps?

 

 

[2and3cylinders]

Thanks Daz,

A couple more clarifications I think that go done to variances / semantics tween Aussie English versus Merican English...

"Recovering" = Duplicate or copy ??

"...new switch..." = FJR/YTX OEM pod or the other McCruise standard switch or what you are creating?

 

Pics are before a couple three dozen mods including 320 mm front rotors & Brembo MC, fork internal massage and Razor-R shock.  I use my FJ as a test mule for components we fab that will fit various other bikes for for customers.

[dazzler24]

1 hour ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Thanks Daz,

A couple more clarifications I think that go done to variances / semantics tween Aussie English versus Merican English...

"Recovering" = Duplicate or copy ??

"...new switch..." = FJR/YTX OEM pod or the other McCruise standard switch or what you are creating?

When I say "Recovering" in that sentence, I meant to not use the McCruise provided slim switch including its cable and Molex connector that plugs into the McCruise 'computer' module.  Set that aside.  In that case you would have to supply a new Molex connector plus pins and be able to crimp them with the right tool (preferably) and of course a new length of 6 wire cable (I'll be using 5 wires).  The other end we are soldering into our newly acquired FJR/XTZ switches.

And yes, "new switch" in that context refers to the newly bought FJR/XTZ switch.  If you have a look at the markings on the FJR switch below you'll see that they are reversed to what the McCruise slim switch is set up to be.  In other words, if you swapped the words (SET & RES) on the switch below but the + and - stay where they are, that would reflect how the slim switch is configured.

My new switch (FJR) will be here early in the week and I hope to have this job done by the end of it, at the latest, and I will post pics and all of the details then.  That will hopefully remove any of the 'mystery' out of the job.

Cheers.

PS - That bike of yours is looking immaculate.  It must be handy to be able to use your bike as a 'mule' and reap the benefits along the way!

[fddriver2]

@dazzler24

How is the double sided holding up?

[2and3cylinders]

Thanks Daz!  Good luck with your efforts.

The USPS did finally come through yesterday and I'm splitting my time today reading through the 50 +/- pages of McCruise instructions, and evaluating how to mount the Slim switch.  I did a quick check of the standard switch and the provided bracket makes accessing the FJ OEM left pod rocker impossible for my thumb even without gloves on and that is with the mirror/clutch perch rotated well forward/downward.

The photos are of Version 1 of my Slim switch mounting mock-up using a 4 mm thick rigid closed-cell polyurethane foam spacer and very thin (for now) double-sided tape to provide adequate thumb clearance between the Slim switches buttons and OEM left switch pod immediately above; particularly the horn button.  There are several holes in the underside of the OEM pod already but IMO, at this point in space and time, a metal mounting bracket that through-bolts through the bottom of the OEM pod and the Slim switch will not provide optimum positioning.  I think my spacer idea may be the best compromise and least costly for the average user (installer), as the Slim switch or OEM pod do not need to be cut or drilled, given a suitable hard plastic spacer is provided with high quality, all-weather, double-sided tape already installed on it along with an isopropyl alcohol wipe.  I'll also evaluate use of plastic zip ties and self-tapping stainless screws as a belt and suspenders approach but that will mean removal and disassembly {and possibly drilling} of the OEM pod.  The double-sided tape should provide good service given loads on it will be in shear rather than tensile, and the receiving surfaces can be slightly roughened if needed to promote bond but I don't think it will be necessary.

Thoughts?

PS, The left OEM pod I'm using for my mock-ups is the spare I mentioned I had whose rocker was damaged when the left mirror swung around and impacted it when I hit a huge Brown Sandhill Crane who decided to take flight from a ditch on the side of the road across my trajectory just as I was passing "at speed".  Can you say "sphincter moment"?

[dazzler24]

8 hours ago, fddriver2 said:

@dazzler24

How is the double sided holding up?

@fddriver2 - Well it was holding on very well but I'm changing mine out for the FJR replacement switches anyway so it won't be an issue for me soon.

Just an FYI - I used very high bond (VHB) tape as it holds on very well.  It's the stuff they use to attach Gopro mounts on helmets and surfboards and the like so can take a bit of a beating.

[2and3cylinders]

Daz,

Thanks for the complement on my FJ, it's accumulated only 35k miles in 2.5 seasons here, which is low for me but my seat time is split between two other scoots and work for the last 2 years has been ridiculous.  I'm too old for it!

My beloved 98 VTR1000F Superhawk (Firestorm to you) has languished for the last few years due to the usurper FJ, which I bought due to my aging bod.  The VTR has been slowly modded to be even more comfortable over the years because of my aches and pains but still is the sweetest handling bike, despite the stock forks (which of course are not stock internally, nor is the Pensk 3-way shock).  I'm finally going to graft on a front end of a VTR1000SP2 (RVT / RC451 or other such modern rocket) for its USD kit but I prefer the classic look of "normal" forks.  I think the ole boy still looks good for his age and miles.  My 77 also fastest red RD400 looks even better (my Yamaha's number of cylinders is where my forum handle comes from, or did I mention that previously?)  Oh, and all my vehicles are red if you note.  LOL  I still think the first gen Mazda 3 was the slickest, and its styling has been copied by BMW and Lexus, among others.

[fddriver2]

I just looked at the bottom of the control pod. What the heck are all of those holes for? 

Using @Cruizin's gif button

[2and3cylinders]

Drainage, ventilation if it does get wet...

[2and3cylinders]

Very cute puppies, are they yours?

[fddriver2]

2 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

Drainage, ventilation if it does get wet...

So covering them up with the McCruise controller = bad? 

Just now, 2and3cylinders said:

Very cute puppies, are they yours?

No. Just using the new gif button to be less "boring"