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3 hours ago, draco_1967 said:

That must have been a pita enclosing it all in the switch housing.

@draco_1967 - Yes, it was a PITA and as mentioned I wouldn't recommend doing it that way for future installs.  There are several methods possible.  Whatever is neat and tidy and works for the individual. 🙂

Thanks for the feedback.

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So you can splice in the resistors into the McCruise cable at the Brain end under the seat?  Definitely the way to go!  No? 

Great work!

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14 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Here's a rough up of my wiring arrangement.  Hope it makes sense.  I wired (soldered) all of my resistors in line with the cabling and enclosed them within the switchblock after insulating them with heatshink.  To be honest... a pain in the ar$e!

If I was to do it again, and I might (OCD kicking in!), I would mount all of the resistors remotely on a soldered breadboard and enclose that in heatshink or a very small enclosure to keep it safe from the elements.  That could be mounted just outside the switch pod under the handlebar or even at the other end of the cable under the seat - out of sight - near the connector that interfaces to the Cruise control computer.  That way it would be just direct wiring (soldering) within the switch pod which is otherwise quite cramped for room.

Anyway, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Cheers

P.S. the resistors chosen were for a LED with a nominal forward voltage of 2V to give approx 20mA current draw.

i.e. I can see the LED in the sunlight.

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What do you mean by the insulated brown wire back light not being used?  What LED did you use again specifically?

Thanks again!

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Final mount .125" thick black ABS adapter plate with .045 thick DS tape temporarily attached to my spare OEM switch pods.  Debating between the clear .040" thick 3M 4910 VHB (like Daz initially used) at 15 #/" (26 N/cm) 90 degree peel adhesion versus the absofriggenlutely never coming off black .045" thick 3M 4949 at 25 #/" (44 N/cm).  Thoughts on which tape?  Especially considering I may go with Daz's latest above OEM switch pod splice-in route.

Oh, and their are plenty of holes still exposed in the bottom of the switch for drainage and ventilation.

 

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22 hours ago, 2and3cylinders said:

So you can splice in the resistors into the McCruise cable at the Brain end under the seat?  Definitely the way to go!  No? 

Great work!

@2and3cylinders - Yes, you could, however....there's always a however.... the SET and RES buttons use a common wire (the yellow one) to sense which button is pressed so when the resistors are remote from the switch pod you would need another wire to get back to the switch from one of the resistors.  Have a look at the circuit I provided and you will see what I mean.

However (again!),  we are 'fortunate' in that because no back light is needed we can simply cut the brown wire away from the computer end (make sure it's removed completely from the MOLEX connector or insulated as it carries voltage) and utilise that for the 'extra' wire required to get back to the switch!  Happy days.

Quote

What do you mean by the insulated brown wire back light not being used?

The McCruise supplied switches both had a backlight in them for night use.  The OEM gear FJR/SuperT doesn't and was never an option or considered in the Yamaha original design so the brown wire is not used - unless you go down the path as described in this reply above to use it for one of the SET/RES functions.

Quote

What LED did you use again specifically?

There are any number of LEDS that can be used that will do the job as well as different colours and in different sizes.  Sizes e.g.  3mm - 5mm - 10mm....  I found the 5mm was big enough to be visible while still being small enough to not 'impose' itself on the switch block.

If you want to keep the colours the same as the McCruise versions for diagnostic alignment then RED/GREEN (plus derived ORANGE) is what you need.

But to answer your specific question, this is what I used and purchased from a general electronics store. -

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If you can't get this specific one where you are in the world then I'm sure if you took this info into any electronics outlet, they would be able to help you with an equivalent.  The important bits I've highlighted in Yellow.

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Not wishing to get too technical but for those that may be interested and/or wondered why I chose the resistance values that I did then read on.

To get a nominal 20mA through the LEDs for maximum efficiency then here are the formulas: -

Pin 1 (E) RED LED - When power button pressed then:-

14V (nominal operating voltage) minus 2V (nominal forward voltage of LED)/620ohms = ~19mA (12/620 = ~19mA)

Pin 3 (G) GREEN LED - When a CRUISE button is pressed then:-

Note that this white wire is a 5V current limited output via 120 ohms from within the cruise controller so  -

5V minus 2V (nominal forward voltage of LED)/120ohms (existing resistor) + 30ohms = ~20mA (3/150 = 20mA)

You can use these formulas to calculate what you need dependant on what LED you end up with if necessary.

EDIT: -Finally, the part number for the MOLEX connector you will require if you're making up your own harness is: -

Molex Mini Fit Junior connector (part # M5557-6R) Male end with crimp pins.

 

 

Edited by dazzler24
Added Molex part number
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