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keithu

Barn door smackdown: V-Stream Touring vs. Madstad 26"

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5 hours ago, piotrek said:

Nice shield. I was forced into one when my other barn door (Kappa the wind catcher) became prime suspect of having broken my dash stay. I think that for it's size, the Madstad still looks decent.

I use my 22" panel (at lowest setting) with the X-Creen Tour deflector that I removed from the old setup. The Madstad on its own worked very well, but the combination made it just right. The deflector is not so much an extension of the shield, but it manages buffeting very well and can be adjusted (offset/height and angle) while sitting on the bike (say a stop/ light). I still see over the screen comfortably.

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I'm a big fan of this kind of set up. Back in the day I had an ST1100, whose stock windshield was akin to stepping into the ring with Sugar Ray Leonard. I heard of the Laminar Lip, got one, and after much fidgeting with it I found the setting that miraculously calmed the air stream. At first I was mad, because I put it on and nothing changed. Then I started playing with placement, until I found The Perfect Spot for my height and riding position. It was magic! 

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’70 Yamaha 125 Enduro; ’75 Honda CB360T; ’81 Yamaha XS650SH; ’82 Honda GL650 Silver Wing Interstate; ’82 Suzuki GS650L; ’87 Yamaha Virago 535; ’87 Yamaha FJ1200; ’96 Honda ST1100; ’99 Yamaha V-Star Classic; ’00 Suzuki SV650; ’07 BMW K1200GT; ’12 Suzuki DR200; ’15 Yamaha FJ-09.  Bold = current

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15 hours ago, piotrek said:

 

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Are you going to let us into the secret of the Green Laser Of Death @piotrek? Does it target deer, lane-wandering drivers or can it be aimed by thought control? 

  • Haha 1

Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...

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18 hours ago, keithu said:

Currently I have the Yamaha bracket adjusted all the way up and the Madstad bracket all the way down. I'm trying to decide if it might be better to move the Yamaha bracket down and the Madstad bracket up. I should be able to get about the same shield height, but it might alter strain forces on the subframe. 🤨

My line of thinking says the same thing, put the force as low as possible on the frame mount.

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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7 hours ago, BBB said:

Are you going to let us into the secret of the Green Laser Of Death @piotrek? Does it target deer, lane-wandering drivers or can it be aimed by thought control? 

In a perfect world it would vaporize slow drivers and RV's.👍

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***2015 Candy Red FJ-09***

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3 hours ago, betoney said:

My line of thinking says the same thing, put the force as low as possible on the frame mount.

I've posted my solution before but for those who missed them, see these pics...

The upper cross tubes are reinforced on both sides of the two vertical adjustment "fins" with plumber's putty "bosses".  The two aluminum z-brackets transfer loads from the upper stays to the lower.  The OEM shield adjustment bits have been discarded and a bicycle QD axle fitted with an aluminum tube with small washers at each end between the two vertical adjustment "fins" to prevent over clamping the adjustment assembly.  Vinyl wrapped 60 durometer neoprene closed-cell foam is wedged between the instrument cowl and back of the shield sub-cowl but must be removed (takes 10 seconds each to remove and reinstall) to adjust the screen.

With my barn tour Give with the bolt on MRW tour spoiler, I still worry but what more can be done.  I do run an OEM height double-bubble with spoiler in moderate temps and a bikini screen in hot weather.

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On 4/29/2020 at 3:54 PM, keithu said:

Currently I have the Yamaha bracket adjusted all the way up and the Madstad bracket all the way down.

Same here... and primarily so I could brace the screen bracket to the stay. You can see a thin, flat washer poking through at the bottom bolt, between the bracket and the stay. There is already a nylon OE washer at the top, so this is just to equalize the gap top to bottom and reduce stress.

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canada.gif.22c5f8bdb95643b878d06c336f5fe29f.gif - IBA #66956 - 2015 Yamaha FJ-09

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My approach was a little different. I also have a skewer and aluminum tube replacing the OEM adjuster, and all-thread rod through the lower stay. But instead of your Z-bracket between the lower stay and adjuster, I have a brace directly between the upper and lower stays. It's hard to say which way is better. 

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