Tracer 900GT: Illustrated Guide to Syncing Throttle Bodies, or - how to pull off all your fairings.

[keithu]

9 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Kept imagining forgetting to put the caps back on the vacuum ports or something moronic like that, and only noticing when I finally finished putting all the bodywork back on.  

LOL, funny you should mention that. I synced my TBs this winter, and just when I was re-installing the final panel I noticed those exact rubber caps still sitting in my parts holder. 🤬

 

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I swear it's way easier to do this on a straight up fully faired sportbike.

Yep. I would say the Katana 600 and Interceptor 700 I had were about as bad as the FJ-09, but everything else I've owned was a lot easier. 

[Wintersdark]

14 hours ago, skipperT said:

The alternate procedure is to wind all 3 screws in gently until they are seated. Look at your sync gauge, and whichever number TB is pulling the most vacuum is your new standard. Wind out the other 2 screws to lower the vacuum until they are all equal. 
yamaha doesn’t always print this in every service manual, but’s it’s been used since the R6 came out back in 06 IIRC? I think that was the first model where Yamaha started using paint marks on the throttle bodies to designate a “standard”. 
-Skip

Gotcha.  Yeah, that's definitely not in my service manual, but it makes a lot of sense.  Good to know, thanks!

[showmerider]

Thanks so much for the step by step with all of the photos, really appreciate it.

[Motocheck]

Thanks for the detail write up @Wintersdark

Does anyone know how to take the gas line disconnect? There’s a grey tab, should this pulled out? I don’t see space to push as normally with other gas lines.

[BBB]

That looks different to mine, but mine is a 2015. Presuming they are similar, you move the grey tab down and it unlocks two push tabs from each side. These need to be squeezed together and can be challenging to get enough pressure. There is a proper tool that looks like modfified long-nose pliers, but it is perfectly possible to do it by hand, with patience and finger strength.

[Motocheck]

I spend best $18. Got a PDF service manual of from eBay.

[Wintersdark]

2 hours ago, Motocheck said:

I spend best $18. Got a PDF service manual of from eBay.

Yeah, I did that too.  Then spent $20 for a used laser printer and got to printing all ~630 pages of it   Still cheaper than buying a print copy, if it's even available where you are (it's not, here - yamapubs won't take my money)

I still like to have access to forum guides like this with lots of photos, because service manuals are notorious for inadequate illustrations and it's always good to have a forum thread for the specific topic too where people can share tips (See: @skipperT's explanation of the alternate sync procedure, which is definitely not in the service manual.  

[Velvet]

I'm really glad that I found this thread because the factory service manual indicates to re-install the airbox after installing the sync vacuum hoses (page 3-9.) Unfortunately the Pit-Posse 90 degree adjusting tool that I bought will not fit into the tight space to adjust the air screws.  I was about to order and try the slimmer Motion Pro 110 degree tool when I came across this thread.  Now I don't have to.  I didn't seem necessary to have to re-install the airbox. 

Thanks Wintersdark!

Edited July 20, 2020 by Velvet

[Wintersdark]

On 7/20/2020 at 8:10 AM, Velvet said:

I'm really glad that I found this thread because the factory service manual indicates to re-install the airbox after installing the sync vacuum hoses (page 3-9.) Unfortunately the Pit-Posse 90 degree adjusting tool that I bought will not fit into the tight space to adjust the air screws.  I was about to order and try the slimmer Motion Pro 110 degree tool when I came across this thread.  Now I don't have to.  I didn't seem necessary to have to re-install the airbox. 

Thanks Wintersdark!

You still have to remove everything anyways, at least once, as you'll never get the manometer vacuum lines attached with the airbox in place - and the leftmost one is still kind of hard even with the airbox removed!  I suppose if you had the Motion Pro tool and set up remote vacuum connections (permanent lines out from the throttle bodies to an externally accessible location that you could then cap) then you'd be able to do a sync without stripping down the bike... But really, I question if it'd be worth the hassle.  I've never found those angled drivers to be very pleasant to use, and while this looks like a lot of work to get all the plastics off, it's actually pretty quick and easy once you've done it and are familiar with what goes where.

[st1100pilot]

Does anyone know if the SK Flowmeter will work on the Tracer TB intakes? I found this tool worked better for me than the Carbtune on my ST1100 and I'd rather not buy another synch tool if I don't need to.

6537 STE Carburetor Flow Meter (SK)

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CB Performance Racing Products has VW Performance...

 

[Wintersdark]

On 12/18/2020 at 10:45 AM, st1100pilot said:

Does anyone know if the SK Flowmeter will work on the Tracer TB intakes? I found this tool worked better for me than the Carbtune on my ST1100 and I'd rather not buy another synch tool if I don't need to.

6537 STE Carburetor Flow Meter (SK)

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CB Performance Racing Products has VW Performance...

 

No idea.  You could try, for sure; but I suspect there won't be room for the butterflies to actuate beneath the cone-shaped fitting when you cram it into a throttle body.  

Also, I'd think you'd need more than one of these, because you need to measure the vacuum of two intakes simultaneously.

[Buggy Nate]

On 6/22/2020 at 9:56 PM, BBB said:

That looks different to mine, but mine is a 2015. Presuming they are similar, you move the grey tab down and it unlocks two push tabs from each side. These need to be squeezed together and can be challenging to get enough pressure. There is a proper tool that looks like modfified long-nose pliers, but it is perfectly possible to do it by hand, with patience and finger strength.

If you fasten a cable tie head on the tips of some long nose pliers it makes a great fuel line disconnect tool.

[roy826]

Will there be any check engine light pop up from doing this procedure? Rapidly approaching my first 4k miles and I plan to check the TBs and change the oil and filter along with a air filter check while in there. I do not own a OB scan/reader so if I set off a check engine light I'll have to go to the dealer and I rather not go there.

[Wintersdark]

1 hour ago, roy826 said:

Will there be any check engine light pop up from doing this procedure? Rapidly approaching my first 4k miles and I plan to check the TBs and change the oil and filter along with a air filter check while in there. I do not own a OB scan/reader so if I set off a check engine light I'll have to go to the dealer and I rather not go there.

No, there's no check engine light issues for this.

 

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With that said, you can get an ODB2 reader and adapter from eBay for about $50 IIRC; if you've already got a reader (handheld, or one of the bluetooth ones) then you can just get the adapter for $20 IIRC.  

An example: 

Yamaha FI, OBD2 fault code scanner diagnostic tool MT10 MT09 XSR900 R1 R6 MT07

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For certain Yamaha motorbikes motorcycle ATV or similar...

It's worth having, because there are things that can cause fault codes and you really want to be able to clear them.  I personally use a ScanTool ODB2 module connected to the adapter shown above that's always connected so I can pull up live engine data on my phone while riding if I feel so inclined.  

For example, if you run the bike in gear on the centerstand, you'll trigger a fault code.  

Once there's a fault code present, you'll be unable to enter the TFT display's configuration menu's until it's cleared.

 

 

Buy one of these and use it *one time* and it's cheaper than most dealerships clearing fault codes in my experience (often charging $100 for the "service")

Edited March 10, 2021 by Wintersdark

[petshark]

On 5/19/2020 at 6:34 AM, Wintersdark said:

Remove the vacuum caps off the throttle body vacuum ports: A little wiggle with your needle nosed pliers, and they'll pop right off.  Easy as pie; don't drop them - they absolutely need to go back on when you're done.  They're here:

Easy as pie on the 2nd and 3rd but I spent an hour trying to get to the left rubber plug and had to give up. It's impossible without some very long very slim needle nose pliers and even then I don't see how I will be able to get the carb tool hose on, access is blocked from all sides.

I again watched all video's I could find and it looks like my 2019 GT has different parts than yours. I suspect it could be a EU thing.

I started to remove stuff that was in the way but the small rubber hoses seem glued to the connectors. I didn't dare pull any harder because they were stretching and seemed about to snap. No need for those metal fasteners, that is for sure. Tips are welcome (heat perhaps?)

My plan for now is to disconnect that fuel line and remove the metal bracket tomorrow and hopefully that way I can get to it.