Need a chain.

[texscottyd]

11 minutes ago, captainscarlet said:

Looks like our standard chains have built in obsolescence!

I view that as an economy reality of Yamaha manufacturing the bike to a specific price point.  10k - 15k miles from an OEM chain isn’t unreasonable, and you will be amazed at how much more substantial a good replacement chain feels... I put the DID VX on mine, and anticipate (hope? wish? pray??) for more longevity than I got with the factory chain.  

[captainscarlet]

36 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

 I put the DID VX on mine, and anticipate (hope? wish? pray??) for more longevity than I got with the factory chain.  

Indeed, according to D.I.D's own marketing blurb the VX and in particular the ZVM-X are supposed to last at least double the mileage.  Time will tell....

CS

Edited June 24, 2020 by captainscarlet

[betoney]

1 hour ago, texscottyd said:

I view that as an economy reality of Yamaha manufacturing the bike to a specific price point.  10k - 15k miles from an OEM chain isn’t unreasonable, and you will be amazed at how much more substantial a good replacement chain feels... I put the DID VX on mine, and anticipate (hope? wish? pray??) for more longevity than I got with the factory chain.  

It seems the VX has been replaced with the VX3.  I recently ordered a VX and got the new VX3 from Sprocket Center.

- "Superior longer life than previous D.I.D 525 VX chain models".👍

DID Chain 525 VX3 Pro-Street X'ring Chain - GOLD or NATURAL (choose length) - CHAINS

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<h4>D.I.D. Chain - 525 VX3 Pro-Street series X'ring Chain (Gold or Natural) -...

 

[nhchris]

So here is a photo of what I am seeing on my stock chain.  I have  three or four locations on the chain where this red dust is visible.  (I first thought it was  just a  bit of rust.)

Chain has 12,500 miles on it.

@captainscarlet and @betoney, is this what you see and is it cause for immediate chain replacement?

Thanks guys.

 

Edited June 25, 2020 by nhchris

[betoney]

@nhchris - yes but mine was quite a bit more than that.  The biggest irritation though was the tight links, they made the ride very rough.  I removed the wheel and went link by link moving them back and forth to try and free them up but that wasn't successful.

Setting chain tension was impossible since on one section it was too tight and rotate the wheel a few inches and it was far too loose.

[nhchris]

Yep, my chain tension situation is exactly the same  @betoney.  In addition, I can hear rotational noise related to the drive train when riding without ear plugs.  Sort of a "whrr whrr, whrr" that tracks with the speed of the bike.  Faster speed more whrrs per  minute!

Unfortunately sprocket center is out of stock on damped 17-tooth front at this time.  What chain do you guys recommend?

And  is it safe to use a clip link rather than a rivet master?  I don't have a chain tool but would bring bike to shop for a riveting.

[captainscarlet]

28 minutes ago, nhchris said:

So here is a photo of what I am seeing on my stock chain.  I have  three or four locations on the chain where this red dust is visible.  (I first thought it was  just a  bit of rust.)

Chain has 12,500 miles on it.

That is EXACTLY what I have been seeing on my chain and like you in a number of locations.  Also the mileage correlates very well.  I've done around 20 000 km which is give or take 12 500 miles.

My understanding from reading elsewhere is that the dust is rust from inside the chain.  Which means the inside of the rollers/links where the rust is coming from are shot.  I am currently in the middle (literally, I've just undone the front sprocket) of changing my chain.

Like you I have been experiencing noise and I'm sure more vibration than normal.

I would not use a clip link, it is much safer to use a rivit.  Also the front sprocket is a 16 tooth not 17 if you want to keep it standard.

CS

[betoney]

9 minutes ago, nhchris said:

Yep, my chain tension situation is exactly the same  @betoney.  In addition, I can hear rotational noise related to the drive train when riding without ear plugs.  Sort of a "whrr whrr, whrr" that tracks with the speed of the bike.  Faster speed more whrrs per  minute!

Unfortunately sprocket center is out of stock on damped 17-tooth front at this time.  What chain do you guys recommend?

And  is it safe to use a clip link rather than a rivet master?  I don't have a chain tool but would bring bike to shop for a riveting.

I posted a link for the DID VX3 chain right above.  My last set of sprockets looked almost unused so I ran 2 chains before swapping sprockets  I always use Superlite sprockets and always use a rivet master link.

FJ-09 | Sprockets & Chain Kits

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Sprocket Center is dedicated to being the world's premium provider of...

 

[BBB]

2 hours ago, nhchris said:

Unfortunately sprocket center is out of stock on damped 17-tooth front at this time.  What chain do you guys recommend?

And  is it safe to use a clip link rather than a rivet master?  I don't have a chain tool but would bring bike to shop for a riveting.

You can also go for undamped front sprockets, which is what I used. I honestly can't tell the difference.

Chain tools are not expensive at all and there are lots of good videos on youtube on how to use them. Articles I read suggested that clips links are only to be used where you need to make a lot of quick sprocket adjustments (race bikes) or low engine sized bikes.

[roadrash83]

@nhchris I have used master links on my race bikes and street bikes for years and never had a problem. If I did remove the master link I always replaced the locking clip and used master link pliers for install and removal. The most power full  bike I used a master link on was a BMW S1000rr.

[captainscarlet]

So the new chain is now on.  I must say it feels much more robust than the OEM item.  The job was relatively straight forward and thankfully I was able to borrow a decent chain breaking and riveting tool from a friend.  It will be interesting to see, feel and hear how the bike now feels.

CS

[captainscarlet]

Managed to get out on my first ride this Sunday since changing the chain and sprockets at the end of last week.  I must say there was a noticeable difference, with less vibration and a more general feeling of smoothness.  Also my quickshift, which is generally already smooth, was like butter.

All in all I'm glad I changed the drive train.

CS

[betoney]

48 minutes ago, captainscarlet said:

Managed to get out on my first ride this Sunday since changing the chain and sprockets at the end of last week.  I must say there was a noticeable difference, with less vibration and a more general feeling of smoothness.  Also my quickshift, which is generally already smooth, was like butter.

All in all I'm glad I changed the drive train.

CS

New chains and new tires always make a bike feel smoother and rejuvenated. 😎👍

[peteinpa]

Sad to hear the origional chain is dying at 12k miles. I'm now lubing mine at least every 200 miles.

Some tips on chains:  Signs of wearing out. First you get kinks, then that red dust, then noise, vibration, can't set freeplay.

To remove old chain just cut through the sideplates with cut off wheel on Dremel. AFTER removing countershaft nut. Why stress out or break your rivet tool needlessly. Cuts through quickly like butter.

I always replaced front sprocket with every chain, rear every other chain.

If you're going to change gearing, always go bigger. less stress on chain. Don't go smaller on front, go bigger on rear. Smaller front causes chain to curve tighter for more wear.

For me, top of the line DID chain, nothing else. always got me to at least 20k miles on my CBR1100XX.

I can't believe they even sell clip type master links anymore. Rivet only for me.

[Ride365]

I plan on installing my Tuturo oiler system on my new GT, you get insane mileage out of chains/sprockets with these oilers. I find mine no more messy than any spray lube, plus all I EVER do is wipe the chain down on occasion with a rag.