Recommended Suspension Settings | 220lb rider

[piotrek]

8 hours ago, Doehle said:

I am nervous about changing the other settings as I would like a plush ride

You can always just record your current settings and go back to that if your experiments go nowhere. Say your clicker/adjuster is at position zero now, turn the adjuster clockwise and count the clicks until it clicks no more (don't force it). Do this with both the rebound and compression damping adjusters. Remember to go back to the zero position when backing out the adjuster. Don't know if you have a clicker in the rear, but if not... count 1/4 revolutions clockwise or some such.

Just for clarity on the preload... the 40mm is from an unladen state (wheel off the ground) and not from the static state. Too much preload will rob you of suspension travel. You want as much travel as possible without bottoming out. Also beware of suspension feeling too plush... could mean damping needs to be firmed up.

Maybe the dealer could set up the bike for you for a nominal fee? Then again... you seem to love the ride as is... 🙂

Edited June 24, 2020 by piotrek

[StealthAu]

6 hours ago, betoney said:

I agree with you about viscosity affecting the orifice settings but not sure about 5w lasting longer.  For every stroke of the fork you are still moving the same amount of fluid through the internals.  No?🤷‍♀️

As oil ages, it gets thinner. Hence, over time you progressively dial in more damping. 

With the heavier springs, 2.5w oil is fine in the left leg. In the right leg, fresh 2.5w I set my rebound 3 clicks out. 10,000km later, I'm at the last click. No where to go now, have to replace the oil. 

5w doesn't have a longer life in general to 2.5w, it is an application thing. Right now at ~10,000km I need to replace the oil in my right leg, yet the left would still be good for another ~10,000km.

If I had replaced the oil with 5w in the right leg when I installed the springs, my rebound would have been set further out to start with and I'd have more adjustment available now. 

 

 

[Tripletrouble]

The stock suspension is just ok, and a plush ride and set up for hitting potholes is a bit tricky. I have the same road conditions.  I would say set your sag First. Then, if the stock Fork springs and shock spring are too soft, which I think they may be at your weight, then change them. Wacking the preload to max works, but it will be compromise. If that’s not financially possible, make a note of your existing settings, then set up as betony has outlined. Congratulations on your bike, enjoy ! 

[Tripletrouble]

46 minutes ago, StealthAu said:

As oil ages, it gets thinner. Hence, over time you progressively dial in more damping. 

With the heavier springs, 2.5w oil is fine in the left leg. In the right leg, fresh 2.5w I set my rebound 3 clicks out. 10,000km later, I'm at the last click. No where to go now, have to replace the oil. 

5w doesn't have a longer life in general to 2.5w, it is an application thing. Right now at ~10,000km I need to replace the oil in my right leg, yet the left would still be good for another ~10,000km.

If I had replaced the oil with 5w in the right leg when I installed the springs, my rebound would have been set further out to start with and I'd have more adjustment available now. 

 

 

Good explanation. Dave moss did a good you tube video on this. Whilst a pain in the rear, changing fork oil more frequently than indicated is not a bad thing to do at all for the reasons you have given. When changing, be aware that 5w means little across different brands.  It’s the CST number you need to look at for comparison.

 

[betoney]

2 hours ago, StealthAu said:

As oil ages, it gets thinner. Hence, over time you progressively dial in more damping. 

With the heavier springs, 2.5w oil is fine in the left leg. In the right leg, fresh 2.5w I set my rebound 3 clicks out. 10,000km later, I'm at the last click. No where to go now, have to replace the oil.

Very interesting, within the past month I had posted about being out on a ride and adjusting my fork rebound only to discover I was on the last click.  My suspension will be due for its 2 year servicing this winter, I'm sure the damping will feel different when its done.👍

[Doehle]

12 hours ago, piotrek said:

You can always just record your current settings and go back to that if your experiments go nowhere. Say your clicker/adjuster is at position zero now, turn the adjuster clockwise and count the clicks until it clicks no more (don't force it). Do this with both the rebound and compression damping adjusters. Remember to go back to the zero position when backing out the adjuster. Don't know if you have a clicker in the rear, but if not... count 1/4 revolutions clockwise or some such.

Just for clarity on the preload... the 40mm is from an unladen state (wheel off the ground) and not from the static state. Too much preload will rob you of suspension travel. You want as much travel as possible without bottoming out. Also beware of suspension feeling too plush... could mean damping needs to be firmed up.

Maybe the dealer could set up the bike for you for a nominal fee? Then again... you seem to love the ride as is... 🙂

100% lifted the bike off the ground to get an initial measurement.

Just did a 2 hour ride and hit a mega storm. Bike did fine. Soon I will start clicking away to dial in a better feel.

Will look at better springs next year. I bought this bike and kept my KLR, so I’m tapped out.

Plus a more pressing issue is working to get rid of some of the bad vibrations (hoping 1000km service and throttle body sync will help). Also seriously considering anti vibe bar risers.

[Tripletrouble]

1 hour ago, Doehle said:

100% lifted the bike off the ground to get an initial measurement.

Just did a 2 hour ride and hit a mega storm. Bike did fine. Soon I will start clicking away to dial in a better feel.

Will look at better springs next year. I bought this bike and kept my KLR, so I’m tapped out.

Plus a more pressing issue is working to get rid of some of the bad vibrations (hoping 1000km service and throttle body sync will help). Also seriously considering anti vibe bar risers.

Vibes. Throttle sync doesn’t make much of a difference. I changed foot pegs for rubber sports bike pegs. The bar ends are light and are more for show. You could replace with proper heavy bar ends from R & G (not Chinese as these are also light)   If you have big hands...look at Grip puppies. These slide over your grips and are a compact foam. I didn’t like them at first, made the grips a bit too big, but now love them. They knock of some vibes and are comfy on a long ride. Back of the rebound 3 clicks, and go from there. I used to have a KLR. The tracer is leagues ahead on the road, might take some getting used to the power. Stick it B softer mode ? 

[StealthAu]

9 hours ago, Tripletrouble said:

Good explanation. Dave moss did a good you tube video on this. Whilst a pain in the rear, changing fork oil more frequently than indicated is not a bad thing to do at all for the reasons you have given. When changing, be aware that 5w means little across different brands.  It’s the CST number you need to look at for comparison.

 

Changing oil frequently is a good thing, yes.. I tend to do it every 10 - 20,000km. 10,000km is the better, I wouldn't exceed 20,000km, it really has to be changed by then. 

I could maintain the stock oil and force myself to change it within 10,000km intervals, though if it becomes necessity to change it this frequently, you're really running the wrong fork oil. 

You're spot on the weight and cst. 5w Yamilube (obviously) or Motul is good for my application, haven't checked the others. Best to pick a brand and stick with it. I use motul as it is most readily available option where I am. 

 

7 hours ago, betoney said:

Very interesting, within the past month I had posted about being out on a ride and adjusting my fork rebound only to discover I was on the last click.  My suspension will be due for its 2 year servicing this winter, I'm sure the damping will feel different when its done.👍

 

I did see that. I asked if it were necessary to change oil viscosity if you were due for fork service. But if you are due for service in winter, 3- 6 months away, you probably need to review your oil choice or valving. What path did you decide on?

 

1 hour ago, Doehle said:

100% lifted the bike off the ground to get an initial measurement.

Just did a 2 hour ride and hit a mega storm. Bike did fine. Soon I will start clicking away to dial in a better feel.

Will look at better springs next year. I bought this bike and kept my KLR, so I’m tapped out.

Plus a more pressing issue is working to get rid of some of the bad vibrations (hoping 1000km service and throttle body sync will help). Also seriously considering anti vibe bar risers.

Springs are relatively cheap. Less than $200USD (from memory) front and rear would cover it if you do your own work. 

Chuck a zip tie around one of your fork legs, loose so it can easily slide up and down.

Mark where bottom out is on the tube with a sharpie, it somewhere around 20 mm up from memory, check for yourself. With the wheel off the ground, measure down 137mm from outer fork tube and mark a dot there. 

This will give you a visual representation of how much fork travel you are using. 

If it is bottoming out, or even getting too close, it becomes a safety issue. 

 

[duckie]

Each dampening adjustment is made up of two circuits, a low speed and a high speed. Speed being how fast the slider moves based on bikes speed and the bump.

The low speed is what is being adjusted with the clickers. The high speed is done with shim stacks. Not alot forks have external adjustment for high speed.

Adjusting the clickers is moving a tapered needle valve in and out of a orfice controlling the flow of oil through it.

When max oil flow is reached in the low speed, the high speed comes into use. Adjusting the low speed determines when the high speed comes into use.

Changing oil will effect both circuits.

Heat is the enemy of suspension oil. Alot of heat is created with suspension movement.

Implying that how hard and what type of road conditions you road on also plays a role when to change the fluid.

Fresh oil is the first thing needed when trying to set up a bike for the street.

Just some early morning random thoughts....

 

 

 

 

[Wintersdark]

On 6/22/2020 at 3:14 PM, StealthAu said:

I weigh the same as the OP. I set the preload on the forks to max and still had 50mm or a little more of sag. 

Set the rear to match the front. Had a few extra clicks in the rear, but rather keep it balanced. 

Set the rebound front and rear to where it needs to be, push down on the bike and it comes back up without bouncing. 

Kept dialing in compression damping to try and stop the forks bottoming out every ride until it became uncomfortable to ride. Just couldn't get it to work. 

Installed new springs, to my weight, front and rear. Made all the difference. Enjoyed riding the pants off it for the last 10,000km.

I hear that!

The lowest rider sag I could manage was ~52mm with the stock springs on max preload - I'm a 300lb dude.  I've got some new springs on the way from Stoltec, and cannot wait to see what it's like with them and the higher oil level they recommended. 

Gotta replace the rear shock too, when I can.  They're stupid expensive though, whereas the replacement springs for the forks where surprisingly affordable. 

 

It'll be nice, for my first time ever, to have a bike actually sprung for my weight.

[Wintersdark]

8 hours ago, Doehle said:

Plus a more pressing issue is working to get rid of some of the bad vibrations (hoping 1000km service and throttle body sync will help). Also seriously considering anti vibe bar risers.

Throttle body sync usually helps a lot there, but it's a kind of buzzy bike.  I'm really, really taken with Grip Puppies, personally - they do an excellent job of damping handlebar vibrations, and rubber footpegs help down low.  

[betoney]

18 minutes ago, Wintersdark said:

I'm a 300lb dude.  I've got some new springs on the way from Stoltec, and cannot wait to see what it's like with them and the higher oil level they recommended.

Just the correct spring rate will make a nice difference. 👍

What oil level does Stoltec recommend?  I have always read that 150mm was correct for this bike - with the recommended springs there should be no fear of bottoming.

[Tripletrouble]

4 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

I hear that!

The lowest rider sag I could manage was ~52mm with the stock springs on max preload - I'm a 300lb dude.  I've got some new springs on the way from Stoltec, and cannot wait to see what it's like with them and the higher oil level they recommended. 

Gotta replace the rear shock too, when I can.  They're stupid expensive though, whereas the replacement springs for the forks where surprisingly affordable. 

 

It'll be nice, for my first time ever, to have a bike actually sprung for my weight.

Not sure you need higher oil level if your springs are going to be stiffer ? Higher oil is normally a work around for too soft springs to prevent bottoming out. It's also easier to add oil bit by bit than remove. However, stoltec knows his stuff, trust hi. I'm just interested to know why. A rear shock will make a big difference when the time comes, but yes, it's a hard call financially. 

Edited June 24, 2020 by Tripletrouble

[Tripletrouble]

5 hours ago, duckie said:

Each dampening adjustment is made up of two circuits, a low speed and a high speed. Speed being how fast the slider moves based on bikes speed and the bump.

The low speed is what is being adjusted with the clickers. The high speed is done with shim stacks. Not alot forks have external adjustment for high speed.

Adjusting the clickers is moving a tapered needle valve in and out of a orfice controlling the flow of oil through it.

When max oil flow is reached in the low speed, the high speed comes into use. Adjusting the low speed determines when the high speed comes into use.

Changing oil will effect both circuits.

Heat is the enemy of suspension oil. Alot of heat is created with suspension movement.

Implying that how hard and what type of road conditions you road on also plays a role when to change the fluid.

Fresh oil is the first thing needed when trying to set up a bike for the street.

Just some early morning random thoughts....

 

 

 

 

Pretty good explanation for early morning... 

[StealthAu]

6 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

I hear that!

The lowest rider sag I could manage was ~52mm with the stock springs on max preload - I'm a 300lb dude.  I've got some new springs on the way from Stoltec, and cannot wait to see what it's like with them and the higher oil level they recommended. 

Gotta replace the rear shock too, when I can.  They're stupid expensive though, whereas the replacement springs for the forks where surprisingly affordable. 

 

It'll be nice, for my first time ever, to have a bike actually sprung for my weight.

Have you considered getting just a spring for the rear shock? It is cheap and will give you 20,000km or so to look for a new shock.