Ride On Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 I've found that adjusting the chain with the stock chain adjusters is a real PIA. By using a feeler gauge stack placed between the adjustment bolt head and it's locknut I can quickly set both sides of the axle to the same displacement. Fast and easy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buggy Nate Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Only problem with that is that it is no more accurate. Only that the distance is the same between bolt head and the nut. Bolts aren’t a machine finished item and aren’t very accurate. What do you find hard about the standard marks? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michiel900GT Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 I do not think that the accuracy of the marks is any better than the accuracy of the bolts. In fact, I think it gets more inaccurate when you use the marks only as it's very dependable on your eye/mark coordination. Personally I always use a measuring tool to measure both sides. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nhchris Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) The only foolproof way is to make sure the chain is perfectly aligned on the rear sprocket. Any other measurements of axel nuts and swing arm marks are really secondary to chain alignment. The inexpensive Motion Pro alignment tool is very easy to get on/off the rear sprocket and indicates the slightest misalignment between chain and sprocket. I run the alignment rod full extended for highest accuracy and sight down the rod under the chain guard. Easy squeezy. Edited July 23, 2020 by nhchris 8 1 1968 Triumph Bonneville 650 1971 Norton Commando Roadster 2002 Harley 1200 Sportster 2003 Honda ST 1300 2016 FJ 09 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted July 23, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted July 23, 2020 @Ride On - In addition to what @Buggy Nate mentioned, one other thing to consider when measuring the distance between the 2 nuts is how loose the front jamb nut is, if it is looser on one side then the measurement will be different. ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTO MIKE Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 Yes the heads of the bolts and nut thickness will always vary a little ,so using the feeler gauges don't mean much. Now the threads of the bolts are another thing , they are a specific thread per inch, so if you are careful when loosening and adjust by turning equal flats on the bolts and careful not to turn when locking down ,your going to be close. Of course using a line up tool to double check as has been mentioned would be a bonus ! MIKE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KillEmAll4u Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 (edited) @gtomike That's exactly what I do. Count the flats making sure I turn an equal number on both sides then double check when everything is tightened up with the alignment tool. I apologize for my screen name. It's my PC gamer name. LOL Edited July 23, 2020 by KillEmAll4u 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wintersdark Posted July 23, 2020 Share Posted July 23, 2020 I always used to use the exposed thread distance on the adjuster nuts (measured via calipers), but on my Tracer, that does not result in a straight rear tire. Maybe something about the bolts, the nuts, or whatever, I don't know, but it just doesn't work. The bike ends up tracking very slightly left all the time, and once I got a chain alignment tool (linked above) it was immediately obvious that it wasn't actually straight. So, yeah, the measuring method works, sometimes, except when it doesn't. Get an alignment tool and be sure. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member piotrek Posted July 24, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted July 24, 2020 I initially measure from end of adjuster block to end of swing arm using Varnier caliper (depth rod). I do this at wheel install and/or chain replacement (say once per season). I check that the chain runs true... spin the wheel, eyeball it, have a listen and tweak if needed (to nearest adjuster bolt flat). For chain adjustments in between I count bolt flats as mentioned by someone earlier. Bought the Motion Pro tool, because... Internet. Collecting dust in tool chest. I don't find it useful at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member dazzler24 Posted July 24, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted July 24, 2020 And if you want to get flash and all high tech about your chain alignment , there's always this tool to consider.... Can't get a straighter line than a laser light! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member piotrek Posted July 24, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted July 24, 2020 14 minutes ago, dazzler24 said: And if you want to get flash and all high tech about your chain alignment , there's always this tool to consider.... Can't get a straighter line than a laser light! Nice tool... and has "Made in Germany" splashed all over each image 😏... so it mus be good, ja? Trouble is that front and rear sprockets aren't really truly in the same vertical plane... so a laser is bit of an overkill... but a cool toy nonetheless. I can see someone with OCD have fun with this for hours. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted July 24, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted July 24, 2020 30 minutes ago, piotrek said: I initially measure from end of adjuster block to end of swing arm using Varnier caliper (depth rod). That is a great suggestion. 👍 I will give that a try tomorrow and see how far off my current adjustment is. Do you have these adjuster blocks? They are equal dimensions behind the axle for left and right? 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member piotrek Posted July 24, 2020 Supporting Member Share Posted July 24, 2020 (edited) 2 minutes ago, betoney said: Do you have these adjuster blocks? They are equal dimensions behind the axle for left and right? Same adjusters... identical dimensions. Edited July 24, 2020 by piotrek 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmev Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 9 hours ago, piotrek said: I initially measure from end of adjuster block to end of swing arm using Varnier caliper (depth rod). I do the same thing, but use an old-fashioned 6" machinist's rule with a sliding depth gauge. The rule takes up zero space when packing for trips, too. My other trick is when you are tightening a loose chain a bit, turn the adjuster bolts equal amounts by counting how many lands have turned on the bold head. I always have a flat land facing outwards and only turn two or three lands at at time to keep the wheel parallel during adjustment. If you turn each bolt 4 lands, you're good. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBB Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 13 hours ago, piotrek said: Bought the Motion Pro tool, because... Internet. Collecting dust in tool chest. I don't find it useful at all. Hah! I thought I was the only one who had done that. Mine’s gathering dust too. 1 Red 2015 Tracer, UK spec (well, it was until I started messing with it...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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