Simplified Chain Adjustment

[3way]

As an aside when using a laser for pinpoint accuracy. A correctly aligned chain does not mean your wheel is aligned and tracking straight. If it does, bonus, but I prioritise wheel alignment, then shim rear sprocket for chain alignment if need be. 

[Bill H]

On 7/23/2020 at 10:00 AM, KillEmAll4u said:

@gtomike That's exactly what I do. Count the flats making sure I turn an equal number on both sides then double check when everything is tightened up with the alignment tool. I apologize for my screen name. It's my PC gamer name. LOL

dont let yourself get caught up in the P C nonsense ,,no need to apologize especially to someone you dont know

IMO

[DavidS]

On 7/24/2020 at 7:08 AM, BBB said:

Hah! I thought I was the only one who had done that. Mine’s gathering dust too. 

Mine too, and I'll sell it to anyone willing to pay $5 and shipping

[Bill H]

On 7/23/2020 at 6:08 PM, betoney said:

That is a great suggestion. 👍  I will give that a try tomorrow and see how far off my current adjustment is.

Do you have these adjuster blocks? They are equal dimensions behind the axle for left and right?

the tracer has two notches top and bottom and the block also has notches top and bottom ,,I could see how it would be hard getting low enough to see and line them up,,i transferred the notch so its on top of frame  just in front of the block by making a small scratch line with a utility knife  

[Lone Wolf]

On 7/23/2020 at 5:28 PM, piotrek said:

... Bought the Motion Pro tool, because... Internet. Collecting dust in tool chest. I don't find it useful at all.

The problem is the rod is too short on that tool. I posted this in another thread, but for less than $10 you can get a 12 inch long drill bit that works much better.  an 1/8" bit is slightly smaller diameter than the rod that comes with the motion pro tool, but it gets pushed hard against the side wall when you tighten the screw. So it doesn't matter what size bit as long as it fits in the hole. This one is a 7/64.

These long bits are very accurate, you can put them in a drill and confirm they aren't bent.

[Bill H]

On 7/24/2020 at 10:06 AM, duckie said:

well, here's something  I just started doing.....I did a chain adjustment and wheel alignment then realized I needed a rear tire.

To avoid going through the process again, I put a length of vinyl tape that runs along the side of the axle slider placed such that the tape edge runs even against the front of the slider where the screw head rest. I did this for both sides.

I then placed a fine mark  on the tape at where the front edge of the adjuster is located. Did this on both sides. 

when I replaced the rear wheel, I just adjusted the axle sliders until the front edge of the axle sliders was at the marks on both tapes. I rechecked the tension and alignment to make sure nothing changed which nothing did. I kept the tape on just as a quick visual check to see if the rear axle has moved.

I need to do a tension adjustment now. So, all I have to do is adjust the chain tension, use a pair of calipers to set  the distance from old mark to the new mark once adjusted, then use them the set the distance on the other side using the old mark. Once set, remark the tape. 

I read on here about someone making their own chain tension gauge by making a mark on a piece of wood then measuring up 35mm, make another mark and then another mark 10mm from that one. which would be 45mm from the first mark. Just place the the first mark at the bottom of the chain, push the chain up to see where the top of the chain is in relation to the 35 and 45 mm marks.

Works great. So, between the tension gauge and the tape next to the axle sliders, chain adjusting just got easier for me.

 

 

Measuring center to center always clears up any confusion for me ,,however i am very confused on what you are explaining ,,

"I put a length of vinyl tape that runs along the side of the axle slider placed such that the tape edge runs even against the front of the slider where the screw head rest.

A picture is worth a 1000k words

[Bill H]

On 7/22/2020 at 7:08 PM, Ride On said:

I've found that adjusting the chain with the stock chain adjusters is a real PIA.  By using a feeler gauge stack placed between the adjustment bolt head and it's locknut I can quickly set both sides of the axle to the same displacement.  Fast and easy.  

Its interesting to see the difference in adjusting blocks here ,,mine doesnt look like either one of the photos in this topic.For instance can you tell me the spot where your bolt head is sitting against ,,is that a separate piece or is it molded with the block,,my 2020 does not have that thinner peice and therefor the adjusting bolt head is not making full contact and is actually hanging  outside the block by a third ,,the other side a 1/4

thanks

[betoney]

10 minutes ago, Bill H said:

Its interesting to see the difference in adjusting blocks here ,,mine doesnt look like either one of the photos in this topic.For instance can you tell me the spot where your bolt head is sitting against ,,is that a separate piece or is it molded with the block,,my 2020 does not have that thinner peice and therefor the adjusting bolt head is not making full contact and is actually hanging  outside the block by a third ,,the other side a 1/4

thanks

The photo above is stock axle block on the FJ, not sure if they kept the same design on the Tracer.  The other photo a few posts up is an aftermarket block.  Can you take a photo of your axle block? it might help to determine if everything is correct.

[Ride On]

25 minutes ago, Bill H said:

Its interesting to see the difference in adjusting blocks here ,,mine doesnt look like either one of the photos in this topic.For instance can you tell me the spot where your bolt head is sitting against ,,is that a separate piece or is it molded with the block,,my 2020 does not have that thinner peice and therefor the adjusting bolt head is not making full contact and is actually hanging  outside the block by a third ,,the other side a 1/4

thanks

Mine is a one piece molded block as seen behind the bolt head.

[Bill H]

36 minutes ago, betoney said:

The photo above is stock axle block on the FJ, not sure if they kept the same design on the Tracer.  The other photo a few posts up is an aftermarket block.  Can you take a photo of your axle block? it might help to determine if everything is correct.

Im curious how you know its an FY,,other than the block the only diff i see is the singular notch,,,mine has two .,{notches} top and bottom,,I cant sent a photo at this time but if you were to remove that plate where the adjuster bolt head sits against thats what mine looks like .

Edited August 27, 2020 by Bill H

[Bill H]

18 minutes ago, Ride On said:

Mine is a one piece molded block as seen behind the bolt head.

interesting ,,I dont have that thinner plate ,,not that its that big a deal i guess ,,less weight right ,,hahah

 

[betoney]

27 minutes ago, Bill H said:

Im curious how you know its an FY,

Because I own an FJ, those are the stock axle blocks.

You can see the adjuster bolt in this photo on my aftermarket blocks.

 

[Bill H]

41 minutes ago, betoney said:

Because I own an FJ, those are the stock axle blocks.

You can see the adjuster bolt in this photo on my aftermarket blocks.

 

haha yes i know that ,,i was referring to Ride Ons blocks on this page ,,so all three stock ones are different,,,,your old ones only locked in the axle on one side  it appears  where as mine are kinda like your aftermarket ones being locked in on both sides , when  i am able to send a photo we can revisit this mystery ,,it will give you something to look forward to .LOL so being as the adjusting bolt serves no purpose other then adjusting chain im sure its fine that not all of the bolt head is sitting against the meat of the block,,but id does make me wonder why its like that

Edited August 27, 2020 by Bill H

[2and3cylinders]

5 minutes ago, betoney said:

Because I own an FJ, those are the stock axle blocks.

You can see the adjuster bolt in this photo on my aftermarket blocks.

 

I use these with a vernier caliper in 2 locations and the MP CAT678048* and am waiting for the Laser from D'Faderland...

12mm Socket with millimeter detents, easy-peasy adjustment.  Before tightening I insert a very thin aluminum U-shim between the flats of the axle and the engaging recess flats of the adjuster.   I use the MP Sprocket Jammer (08-0642) in the upper run to tighten the axle nut, and lower run to loosen the countershaft sprocket nut).  I use 1.25 ~ 1.375" for slack (often using a ChainMonkey SlackSetter) and only 90 FP on the 27 mm axle nut.

DID 520 ZVM-X & SuperLite CM Steel 15T / 44T

My only issue is my poor eyesight, even with adequate illumination my poor depth perception make chain adjustment challenging.

*Chain Alignment Tool PN 

[2and3cylinders]

On 7/25/2020 at 11:32 AM, 3way said:

As an aside when using a laser for pinpoint accuracy. A correctly aligned chain does not mean your wheel is aligned and tracking straight. If it does, bonus, but I prioritise wheel alignment, then shim rear sprocket for chain alignment if need be. 

Could you detail the tools, materials and procedures with photos of how you align the wheel (to the CS sprocket?) and then shim the sprocket and  then align the chain?