2021 GT Updates

[rlambke19]

17 minutes ago, betoney said:

You do realize being the first to report actually owning one that you are now the popular kid on the block and will probably get flooded with dozens of questions, my first being; fueling, how does the throttle response and on/off 'snatchiness' feel compared to the previous bike?

I rode home in engine mode "2" which is akin to the old "Standard" mode on my 2019 GT.

I'd say it's smoother than the previous model - not snatchy - just need to make sure you give it enough throttle. Once moving, the response is immediate and very linear/smooth.

I didn't switch it to mode "1" as I didn't want to fuss with it while riding - the dash contains a lot of info - need to get used to where everything is located still.

Rob

Edited May 13, 2021 by rlambke19

[Dpl900]

There is no reason to upgrade from the previous model .....If you take BMW XR1000 would be a major upgrade ....

[nick@forceberg.net]

1 minute ago, Dpl900 said:

There is no reason to upgrade from the previous model .....If you take BMW XR1000 would be a major upgrade ....

There's all the reasons. Design being a major reason to begin with. 

[Dpl900]

Just now, nick@forceberg.net said:

There's all the reasons. Design being a major reason to begin with. 

does not offer anything more than driving .... Visually divides opinions sorry for english I write from google translate

[betoney]

56 minutes ago, rlambke19 said:

I'd say it's smoother than the previous model - not snatchy - just need to make sure you give it enough throttle. Once moving, the response is immediate and very linear/smooth.

 

The new CP3 motor is listed as having a slightly heavier crankshaft for more rotating mass (smoother/tractable), like the Niken.  I test rode the Niken and immediately noticed (and enjoyed) the smoother power delivery, though it in no way diminished its 'sportiness'. 

[rlambke19]

11 minutes ago, betoney said:

The new CP3 motor is listed as having a slightly heavier crankshaft for more rotating mass (smoother/tractable), like the Niken.  I test rode the Niken and immediately noticed (and enjoyed) the smoother power delivery, though it in no way diminished its 'sportiness'. 

Exactly - smoother power delivery. 

[2and3cylinders]

If I wanted smooth I'd have got a I4, or even a V4! LOL

Got to drop out of this thread, too much time and $ invested in my 15, and it's too much to know it's shortcomings compared to the 21 despite all my mods.

Can't afford to get anything new as I don't have the time and energy to get out on the 3 steeds I now have. 😞

Could a Niken flywheel fit a 15?

[betoney]

15 minutes ago, 2and3cylinders said:

If I wanted smooth I'd have got a I4, or even a V4! LOL

Could a Niken flywheel fit a 15?

I don't know what all is different but the crankshaft is (I believe 15%) heavier on the Niken.

[Zafiro]

Driven the Tracer 9 for several hours now its frustrating not to go above 5300 rpm. Still in the break-in. When I return my loaner to the dealer next driver doesn't need to care about rpm.

The top of the foot peg is made of rubber which is comfortable for my feet but the ones for the rear passenger is the same as my old MT09. Why? looks wrong and cheap. Need to be replaced ASAP. But me knees doesn't have the same angle as my MT09 which is good for longer trips.

Preparing for another trip with two friends later today (Triumph Tiger, BMW GS1250).

Edited May 14, 2021 by Zafiro

[MightBeSasquatch]

6 hours ago, Zafiro said:

Driven the Tracer 9 for several hours now its frustrating not to go above 5300 rpm. Still in the break-in. When I return my loaner to the dealer next driver doesn't need to care about rpm.

I know discussions of engine break-in live in the same dark corner that politics and religion and other topics live in.... but the manual does specifically state that RPM's above 5300 should be avoided for "prolonged" amounts of time... As long as you're not pinning it for miles on end, you'll be just fine.

[Ride365]

Never understood the whole break in thing, the engine has in fact already been run to redline at the factory on a dyno. Just ride it normally for about 600 miles and do an early oil/filter change, makes no sense to baby the engine for no good reason. 

[ZigMerid]

5 hours ago, Ride365 said:

Never understood the whole break in thing, the engine has in fact already been run to redline at the factory on a dyno.

Which is exactly why no one should listen to self-opinionated run-in advice on the Internet. A dyno run has nothing to do with an engine and drive-train run-in which takes at least 16 hours worth of riding - according to the book. Mr Yamaha definitely does not run your new bike on a dyno for nearly a day exercising all parts of the bike at varying rev ranges.

Which book?  In this case the Yamaha Owner's Manual which on pg 64 entitled "Engine break-in", very clearly states:

"There is never a more important period in the life of your engine than the period between 0 and 1600km (1000 mi). For this reason, you should read the following material carefully.

Since the engine is brand new do not put excessive..."

So who you going to believe? Some random on the Internet or the engine manufacturer who wants your engine to perform properly over a long warranty period and well beyond?

Yeah yeah, we all hear of anecdotes where engines go just fine without a run-in; that's why they're called anecdotes rather than statistics.

Besides-which there are lots of other reasons for the break-in period. The drive-train, the brakes, the tires and more all need bedding in. Also, if there are any manufacturing faults, such as loose bolts or poorly connected brake lines and the like; much better to discover those during cautious riding than when going flat-bunny five seconds out from the dealer.

So yeah, follow the manufacturer's guidance and ignore all else.

Edited May 14, 2021 by ZigMerid

[ODiE]

6 hours ago, Ride365 said:

Never understood the whole break in thing, the engine has in fact already been run to redline at the factory on a dyno. Just ride it normally for about 600 miles and do an early oil/filter change, makes no sense to baby the engine for no good reason. 

They very good reason to not run your engine above 5600rpms for a prolonged period of time is because the owner manual said to and if you just spent that much dough on a brand new bike it's prudent to listen. 

[betoney]

2 hours ago, ODiE said:

They very good reason to not run your engine above 5600rpms for a prolonged period of time is because the owner manual said to and if you just spent that much dough on a brand new bike it's prudent to listen. 

There as many reports supporting both sides of the argument.  I'm sure you saw the MC Garage video where they broke in in 2 identical bikes for the recommended duration, one according to the manual and one at close to red-line, they tore them down and had a professional examine and measure the engine components and there was no discernible difference between them. 🤷‍♀️  Do what you are comfortable with.

 

[roadrash83]

The most important thing to me on engine break in, is to not lug it.