Which Tire Changer?

[Lone Wolf]

9 hours ago, Heli ATP said:

Garage sale find. Looks like all the parts are there. $200. Probably try and mount it to a board instead of drilling the floor. Or maybe I could attach it to the the hitch on my truck?

Craigs List 2 years ago, put "T-nuts" in the plywood so I can bolt it on.

It comes off the plywood and stores pretty well. Paid $225 for mine used.

Watch a lot of NoMar videos and you will be a champ

[Heli ATP]

22 minutes ago, Lone Wolf said:

...put "T-nuts" in the plywood so I can bolt it on. Watch a lot of NoMar videos and you will be a champ

Wilco, Thanks.

[2and3cylinders]

Both were screaming deals

5 (maybe 7) years ago my NoMar Classic was 650 with balancer, lube, extra bar tip, yellow thing, Xtra hand, weights, bolts. & drop in anchors, etc

[petshark]

On 11/5/2021 at 4:39 AM, Wintersdark said:

Sadly, "technique" is easy to type, but tough to learn.  Particularly when you're at risk of destroying brand new tires.  Ask me how I know

Now I've got two bikes, each that need at least two changes per year (winter/summer tires), I couldn't justify paying someone else to change mine anymore.  It's quite a bit more expensive here, with $50 per loose tire being an absolute floor, then adding some $20 of "shop supplies", taxes and such... $120 per bike, twice a year, is $480 of tire changing per year - again, as a minimum, assuming I'm only mounting new tires and get a full season out of each set.  

I was strongly considering a No-Mar changer, but I was looking at $800-$900cad shipped, which was pretty prohibitively expensive. 

So I grabbed a tire changer from http://olmaxmotors.pl

It was $400 Canadian, shipped.  Half the price, and quite a competent little machine.  I'm definitely happy.

In action: 

 

In this video the olmax features a bead breaker but recently you mentioned using C-clamps for that job. Is the Olmax bead breaker no good?

[Wintersdark]

15 hours ago, petshark said:

In this video the olmax features a bead breaker but recently you mentioned using C-clamps for that job. Is the Olmax bead breaker no good?

I don't use c-clamps to break the bead, I use them to hold the bead together and in the drop channel.  The bead breaker on the Olmax works just fine.  

There's lots of tools to do this, and I've seen pictures of people using wine corks and all sorts of things.  I just find c-clamps to be super easy.  Those trigger bar clamps are probably even better (rubber/plastic jaws are less likely to mark anything).

he biggest struggle for me before using them was when I'd get most of the tire over the rim, I'd REALLY struggle with the last part.  People would say things like "use lots of lube" and "take small bites" but neither where relevant.  The solution was getting BOTH beads into the drop channel.  I was just using my knees to push the bead on the side I was working on down into it, but the other side would work against me.  

 

Also, when putting tires on, c-clamps can work like Bead Buddies and what have you, preventing the bead from popping back out as you work your way around.  Generally not an issue with the Olmax but definitely one of you're just doing it on the ground.

[petshark]

4 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

I don't use c-clamps to break the bead, I use them to hold the bead together and in the drop channel.  The bead breaker on the Olmax works just fine.  

There's lots of tools to do this, and I've seen pictures of people using wine corks and all sorts of things.  I just find c-clamps to be super easy.  Those trigger bar clamps are probably even better (rubber/plastic jaws are less likely to mark anything).

he biggest struggle for me before using them was when I'd get most of the tire over the rim, I'd REALLY struggle with the last part.  People would say things like "use lots of lube" and "take small bites" but neither where relevant.  The solution was getting BOTH beads into the drop channel.  I was just using my knees to push the bead on the side I was working on down into it, but the other side would work against me.  

 

Also, when putting tires on, c-clamps can work like Bead Buddies and what have you, preventing the bead from popping back out as you work your way around.  Generally not an issue with the Olmax but definitely one of you're just doing it on the ground.

Ah, I misunderstood then. Thanks for the explanation.

I did my first tire change last summer and bought 4 irons and a big bucket of tire lube. I cut out pieces of washing liquid bottles to protect the rim and it all worked out but it's not a job I look forward to doing again this way. 

So I am just keeping my ears open to see what is out there. I don't' want to spend a lot of money but these tire changers seem like good investments and I love the small footprint. 

I am wondering if these will do car tires as well? Probably not.

 

[2NDCHILDHOOD]

Just used my new Olymax to change the rear tire. This is the first time I have done this myself and there is a learning curve. I think the Battle Axe got it's name from the battle it took to get it off of the rim. I had a hell of a time getting it up on the Butler tire head. The tire was so stiff I couldn't even squeeze it together with large hand clamps. I wound up using a big c-clamp to squeeze it and then used several hand clamps around the tire to hold it. It was still tough to pry it up onto the head. If anyone has any techniques that would make this easier I am all ears.

[NikenLee]

I have the Olmax tyre changer and have used it on Michelin Road 4s (fairly easy) and Pirelli Angel GT A spec tyres for the FJR which are very stiff.

I found that if you press down on the tyre rim using the bead breaker head (rather than G clamps) on the side opposite the duck bill, it is much easier to get the rim up on the head with the tyre lever.

[piotrek]

I use the EVOX changer, which is basically the same idea as the Olmax. I stick the rim clamp (lubed) on opposite side of the rim (lubed), and use a thin (lubed) tire iron (w/curved tip) to slip the tire (lubed) onto the duck-bill (lubed). Works very well. Did I mention lubed?

It's also nice to work with a changer that is anchored to something.

[TomTracer]

2 hours ago, 2NDCHILDHOOD said:

Just used my new Olymax to change the rear tire. This is the first time I have done this myself and there is a learning curve. I think the Battle Axe got it's name from the battle it took to get it off of the rim. I had a hell of a time getting it up on the Butler tire head. The tire was so stiff I couldn't even squeeze it together with large hand clamps. I wound up using a big c-clamp to squeeze it and then used several hand clamps around the tire to hold it. It was still tough to pry it up onto the head. If anyone has any techniques that would make this easier I am all ears.

Rears generally are harder because the circumference is smaller than a front tire. Side walls and bead are stiffer as a result. It's harder to keep both beads in the rim drop down too. Technique improves with practice. I got pretty quick with my HF changer and MOJO bar when I had 4 bikes A Parnes balancer was super. 

I went thru lots of tires because I took at least 2, 3000-4000mi trips on 2 of the bikes and shorter trips on the other 2 most seasons. When I sold 2 bikes a guy opened a shop nearby who would demount, mount and balance a new tire for $30! He'd order what anyone wanted or you could drop ship what you wanted. Had a hell of a business and I got out of doing my own tires.

Then the covid crap shut everything down.

[petshark]

Olmax owners: 

you also had to buy this extra 15 or 17 mm rod?

http://olmaxmotors.pl/index.php/angebote/zubehoer-accessories

 

[2NDCHILDHOOD]

2 hours ago, NikenLee said:

I have the Olmax tyre changer and have used it on Michelin Road 4s (fairly easy) and Pirelli Angel GT A spec tyres for the FJR which are very stiff.

I found that if you press down on the tyre rim using the bead breaker head (rather than G clamps) on the side opposite the duck bill, it is much easier to get the rim up on the head with the tyre lever.

 

1 hour ago, piotrek said:

I use the EVOX changer, which is basically the same idea as the Olmax. I stick the rim clamp (lubed) on opposite side of the rim (lubed), and use a thin (lubed) tire iron (w/curved tip) to slip the tire (lubed) onto the duck-bill (lubed). Works very well. Did I mention lubed?

It's also nice to work with a changer that is anchored to something.

1 hour ago, TomTracer said:

Rears generally are harder because the circumference is smaller than a front tire. Side walls and bead are stiffer as a result. It's harder to keep both beads in the rim drop down too. Technique improves with practice. I got pretty quick with my HF changer and MOJO bar when I had 4 bikes A Parnes balancer was super. 

I went thru lots of tires because I took at least 2, 3000-4000mi trips on 2 of the bikes and shorter trips on the other 2 most seasons. When I sold 2 bikes a guy opened a shop nearby who would demount, mount and balance a new tire for $30! He'd order what anyone wanted or you could drop ship what you wanted. Had a hell of a business and I got out of doing my own tires.

Then the covid crap shut everything down.

Thanks for the tips! I am going to be changing the front this week. I will use the bead breaker to drop the bead into the center of the rim in a couple of places and then use bead clamps (did not know about these and just ordered 2) to hold it down while I pry it onto the duck head. I think this is going to go a lot smoother thanks to you guys!🙃

 

 

[petshark]

Impulse-buy:

I paid 65 euro and the seller was just behind the corner. New it's around 150-200 euro. I'll call it a no-no-mar because it will mar without some alterations.

-I'll have to get proper rim protectors or try some kind of rubber tubing around the 3 "rim-grabbers".
-I'll put a rubber tile from the garden in the middle to protect the rotors
-I need to source a smaller diameter centre pipe as this one is +20mm

The good thing is that I can also use it for my car.