Replace clutch cushions on 2015 fj09

[banderso]

Hi,

2015 fj09. Had a buzzing/ zzzzzzzz/ vibration at idle, off throttle, low speed, and 4-5k rpm maintained speed at low load. Reading many posts on this and fz09 forums I concluded the clutch cushions were loose and sloppy.

So.....

The clutch disassembly and reassembly is covered well in other posts. I suggest using a dowel rod to keep parts in their proper sequence.

Be sure to put rags or paper towels in the gap between the oil pump and interior engine sump. Can you imagine how unhappy you would be if debris or parts fell into the motor!

1. To slide the basket off the shaft the oil pump sprocket has to be unbolted from the oil pump. I probably had 3/32" play between the basket and driven gear due to cushion deterioration.

2. There are eight 6mm x 20mm rivets holding the basket to the driven gear. I used a 40 grit flap wheel to remove the rivet heads and punched out the rivets. Could not source 6mm rivets.

3. The 6mm bored holes would be perfectly sized to tap for M7 bolts. Could not source M7 bolts. I decided to either use .250 rivets x .875 length or 5/16"-18 x 3/4". Could not source .250 rivets. Decided on 5/16"-18 bolts.

4. There is a clearance issue between the oil pump chain and rivets to consider. Measuring the clearance between the oil pump chain and driven gear backing plate was approximately .135" to .140". Any fastener must finally fit.

5. The next decision was bolt head type and material.  Button hex socket head, socket hex head, din 7991 flathead hex socket, hex head. Material, stainless, steel, g2, g5, g8. Decided on hex head grade 2, steel.

6. I had a 3/4" flat steel plate and drilled and tapped for the bolt, 5/16"-18. I screwed the bolts into the plate and using a 40 grit flap disc, shaved the bolt heads to .125" thickness. (Gave me a solid secure base to hold the bolts while grinding)

5. I drilled the clutch basket bosses with F drill and tapped with the appropriate tap. I drilled out the holes on the driven gear backing plate to 5/16".

6. Clean, clean, and reclean all parts.

7. Install the cushions on the bosses. Factory cushions have letters on one side and are installed in the up, or visible, position. The Hinson replacement cushion kit,CU216, are not marked. The bosses are also tapered that you know assembly is correct. 

8. Install the two steel rings between the basket and driven gear. The flat ring goes first against the basket. The tapered ring (think concave spring washer) is next. The concave towards the basket. Next in the assembly is the driven gear. Then the backing plate (which is marked OUT, visible to you). Add a drop of red loctite to each bolt and assemble. Torque the bolts to 106 in./lb. (I torqued all the 5/16"and M6 bolts to 106 in./lb.)

9. Reinstall the clutch basket in reverse order and your done.

I installed the slipper clutch kit.

To be clear, the vibration inherent with the triple is still there. (That what we like) The offensive vibration is gone.

 

see ya

bill

 

 

[banderso]

[banderso]

Oh, I forgot....

Attach the oil pump chain on the gear prior to installing the repaired clutch basket. 

Install the oil pump sprocket and secure to the oil pump, 106 in./lb. Torque to the bolt. (Check that the flats on the pump shaft are mated to the sprocket correctly)

[kilo3]

Ill be doing this as well this winter however i might be going with polyurethane bushings. I was offered a new clutch basket under warranty but I said not to bother, just going to do the same thing. FYI mine is a 2020 and has seen many clutch up wheelies in it's short 7.5k miles.

[david]

it is not needed to remove the oil pump gear to remove the clutch basket, remove the clutch basket bushing and the chain can be removed from oil pump gear easily.

[banderso]

Hi David,

Thank you for the update. I originally thought I could remove the clutch basket bushing(inner race) and needle bearing but was concerned about the needles falling out of their cages.. ( didn't know the construction of the bearing).

see ya

bill

[arthur]

I know this is a really really old thread, but if anyone has the knowledge.....(my 2015 FJ09 only has 4500 miles, but oh my goodness what a racket it makes, but quietens in neutral when I pull the clutch in.

Just wondering if buying a new clutch basket could have been an option for OP (by the way Bill, if you are still around - thank you

[Ccewbj]

On 7/10/2023 at 11:42 PM, arthur said:

I know this is a really really old thread, but if anyone has the knowledge.....(my 2015 FJ09 only has 4500 miles, but oh my goodness what a racket it makes, but quietens in neutral when I pull the clutch in.

Just wondering if buying a new clutch basket could have been an option for OP (by the way Bill, if you are still around - thank you

Hi, My 2015 also has this issue and have gone over many videos on this and am planning to do it as well.  Yes, you can replace the basket/driven gear assembly which was upgraded sometime after our year...maybe an improved part?  But here in CAN, the new part is 600$ +tx. This fix should be <200$ for me. If my basket is worn badly or any cracks, I'll have to replace.  Xmas list i guess.

*mine has 30k km.

Edited July 21, 2023 by Ccewbj
added info

[micah2074]

https://www.extremecreations.com.au/mt-09-fz-09-billet-clutch-basket

Expensive but purrty.

Price on the page is in Australian money.

360.44+ shipping in American.

[2and3cylinders]

My 15 has 60k miles and I installed the slipper clutch years ago for reduced pull and it's other benefits but rarely need or want to use (activate) it.  I can't remember if it always has or developed later the rattling noise at idle when in neutral with the clutch out but it quiets considerably when pulled in.

It shifts great and has a very wide clutch friction zone, which makes controlling speed and back-torque a real pleasure.  I've read how many feel the friction zone is too narrow and abrubt?

It is also smooth and to me relatively vibration free cruising at highway speeds, so much so I often forget to upshift to 5th (which seems a bit rougher; my steed loves 4th gear) and then 6th doing 70+ mph!!!  However, I seem to get better gas mileage irunning high in 4th and 5th?

During spirited and urban riding, maybe my higher concentration level is such I don't notice vibes but I have no numbness or tingling during or after long rides.

Now maybe I'm just used to moderate to heavy vibration coming from Brit singles and twins.  I also think my 98 VTR1000F is super smooth, so much so it's sneaky fast!

I also packed the now Street Naked bars full and solid with Copperhead BBs; a mod I do on all my bikes.  The adjustable clip-ons on my VTR are solid aluminum bar and seem to change the natural harmonic frequency to a pleasant  very dull throb.

Anyway, to the subject at hand, I'm afraid to "fix" something that, knock on plastic, doesn't bother me (at least with earplugs, music and wind noise), and screw up the PDG shifting (I can upshift without clutching from 3rd thru 6th, and if I'm careful even from 2nd) and, to me at least, a fairly quiet (stock exhaust but Vcyclenut ECU flash and -01 clutch cable) and comfortable fastest red 15...

Or am I just a dull twit, and/or oblivious being in such bliss to simply be out flying low on somewhat curvey, quiet back country roads, and also while droning the Slab listening to great road music getting to said roads???

[piotrek]

Thanks for the write-up. The low/steady speed clutch noise has gotten worse this season. Parts in hand... I am ready to do this, albeit just a bit differently (YT video). I will hopefully have enough time left in the season to be able to pass judgement on the outcome. Will update once done.

[piotrek]

Work in progress. I had to loosen the RH crash guard a bit to be able to remove the clutch cover. Bike on the side stand... did NOT have to drain the oil. I noticed no sign of thread locker on the main axle threads... will use blue during assembly. I dropped the oil pump sprocket bolt in the drink... so that was exciting. 😖

Clutch basket and clutch boss show some wear marks, but actual notching is very slight. Spring posts have some wear, but again... minor. I will take fine grit sand paper to mellow the edges a bit.

Best news... clutch plates, friction plates and springs are all well within spec, at >50% life left. For reference, this is at 90K km of mostly adult riding. I am going to take the shine off the clutch plates with a scouring pad, and shuffle the whole lot a little.

Clutch basket drive gear play in the video below. Cushions shrunk and hardened.

M6x1.0 Helicoil inserts are in place. I am waiting for 90 degree countersink bit to come in to finish up. Was going to use a plain old 1/2" bit... but I will wait an extra day to get this done right.

[dazzler24]

7 hours ago, piotrek said:

Work in progress. I had to loosen the RH crash guard a bit to be able to remove the clutch cover. Bike on the side stand... did NOT have to drain the oil. I noticed no sign of thread locker on the main axle threads... will use blue during assembly. I dropped the oil pump sprocket bolt in the drink... so that was exciting. 😖

Clutch basket and clutch boss show some wear marks, but actual notching is very slight. Spring posts have some wear, but again... minor. I will take fine grit sand paper to mellow the edges a bit.

Best news... clutch plates, friction plates and springs are all well within spec, at >50% life left. For reference, this is at 90K km of mostly adult riding. I am going to take the shine off the clutch plates with a scouring pad, and shuffle the whole lot a little.

Clutch basket drive gear play in the video below. Cushions shrunk and hardened.

M6x1.0 Helicoil inserts are in place. I am waiting for 90 degree countersink bit to come in to finish up. Was going to use a plain old 1/2" bit... but I will wait an extra day to get this done right.

Watching with interest.

I learned something from this after researching why use the 90deg countersink and that is that metric flat heads are 90 deg in taper.  For everyone else who didn't know - If you want the head of the screw to maintain contact on all the surface area of that taper than only use a 90 degree countersink.  I'm sure that's common knowledge for the machinists/mechanics out there but new info for me.

Also, did you need to remove the oil sprocket?  I only ask as I'm sure I've seen where it can remain on if you remove the bearings from the clutch shaft first to allow it to drop down enough to clear the teeth?

[piotrek]

19 hours ago, dazzler24 said:

Also, did you need to remove the oil sprocket?  I only ask as I'm sure I've seen where it can remain on if you remove the bearings from the clutch shaft first to allow it to drop down enough to clear the teeth?

Yup...it's in that YT video I posted above (at 1:20)... but then forgot about it and just removed the sprocket.😖

[piotrek]

Job is done. Took the bike out for a half hour ride around the neighborhood today... and I am happy to report that the racket/roughness is gone. Saved a bunch of money, so that's cool. The clutch is a bit grabby now with the stack shuffled and the clutch plates buffed dull.

I picked up guidance on torque and Threadlocker from these sources:

• Threadlocker 272 (red, high temperature), YT video re: Hinson basket kit installation. There are others.
• Bolt torque 12Nm (wet), YT video re: Extreme Creations FZ-09 basket assembly... I went 10 lb-ft.

I did not peen the bolts because the Helicoils made it awkward and I was likely to cause more harm than good. It'll be fine. 😁

The job is pretty straight forward with the right tools. I had most on hand, save for the countersink bit and the 272 Threadlocker. A couple of photos... progress and a finished product. Cushions fit very snug... helps to coat surfaces with oil.