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Main Key Switch - Stop/Kill Switch - Fuel Pump Priming


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13 hours ago, texscottyd said:

I do as well, and am kind of surprised to hear that we appear to be in the minority.  In my case, I think it’s a habit that dates all the way back to my keyless dirt bike days when it was the only option (other than crashing) to turn the thing off...   

That said, I haven’t noticed any issues with starting on my 2015 FJ.   I’ll turn the power on with the key, flip the kill switch to run, and then press the starter after a few seconds.   It fires right up every time. 

I have done it this way with all my bikes, it was the way i was taught instead of just using the key

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  • 1 month later...

The logic behind using the killswitch to turn the engine off is to program our reflexes to flick that switch immediately in an emergency:

After a crash, pinned under the bike, engine on fire... in such cases (may they never happen to any of us) using the killswitch may just save your life.

That the Tracer’s ignition key is in such a hard to reach spot makes this even more important.

I’ve just managed to convince myself to again try and make this a habit. I only use the key most of the time. 

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99.9% of the time use the key to turn the bike off but occasionally do stop it with the kill switch.  I'll have to agree with @texscottyd that it is an ingrained habit.  He used to race and would be surprised if he did not turn it off that way.  On the Tracer GT I wait until the display has cycled which on my bike is longer than the fuel pump prime.

@petshark really like your point and I'm going to change my shutdown procedure so that it will be a practiced move in case of a crash.

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  • 2 months later...
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At the course here in Edmonton they taught us to use the key and not the kill switch.  Reason being, the ignition key goes through many thousands of cycles in testing for reliability, and tends to be more robust, mechanically.  The kill switch, however, is only tested for a few hundred uses.  I don't recall the actual numbers or whatever, but that's the concept.

So, I got in the habit of using the key only.  However, the FJ key is in a bit of an awkward position - that is, until the handlebars are in the lock position - the key is then easily accessed, even with gloves on.

2015 FJ-09 / FJR touring bags / oil plug mod / Evotech rad guard / SW Motech bash plate / VStream touring windshield / Seat Concepts:  Sport Touring / Vcyclenut ABS rings (speedo correction) / Cosmo RAM mount

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On 1/10/2021 at 10:11 PM, PhotoAl said:

99.9% of the time use the key to turn the bike off but occasionally do stop it with the kill switch.  I'll have to agree with @texscottyd that it is an ingrained habit.  He used to race and would be surprised if he did not turn it off that way.  On the Tracer GT I wait until the display has cycled which on my bike is longer than the fuel pump prime.

@petshark really like your point and I'm going to change my shutdown procedure so that it will be a practiced move in case of a crash.

When you get older and the gray matter starts decaying and seeping out your ears (BTW, the latter get hairier over the ages), a preflight and shutdown check list becomes mandatory.  A "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" tag on the ignition key (and for a disc lock) may be a good idea with another hidden taped but accessible (not under the saddle obviously), along with pannier and/or top case keys.

The point is, for me anyway, if I didn't use the key to shut down I'd forget it in the ignition when I walked away.  And I used to race too.

Also, how many have the where with all to hit the kill switch in an emergency when in motion, or really, how often would one need to?  IMO, while possibly still relavent and infrequently useful, it is more a vestage from a bygone era required by the DOT and manufacturer attorneys.

Furthermore, with most modern bikes there is an tipover sensor that automatically causes the engine to shut off; which is much more realistic and practical!

 

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  • 2 years later...
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EDIT Feb 2024 :  Faulty starter relay was the cause of my woes. 

 

An old thread but.... I usually make use of the kill switch when held up at traffic works for an extended, but unknown, amount of time just to keep the engine temperature below the fan kick in level AND to keep all of the bikes circuits alive for a quick getaway.

Occasionally, some of those behind think they're on the starting line at Le Mans and are impatient to move immediately and I'm never keen to be shunted from behind.

The other day however when I was in this same scenario, I hit the starter button and ...nothing!  Did it a second time....nothing.  The third time thankfully was a normal start and away I went but if it hadn't I would have been pushing off to the side of the road.

Just got me wondering if the drain on the battery when using the kill switch is higher because, and please correct me if wrong, I think all of the circuits remain alive including headlight and that maybe pulled the voltage down enough to signal the ECU that voltage wasn't high enough to attempt a start? - I'm guessing here as my kill switch technique has served me well over the years and I've sat for longer periods than the one just described and have had faultless starts.

The battery is always kept on charge and is in good condition BTW.

It's got me wondering about the capacity of my next battery as I've added a few electrical extras to the bike over the years (Cruise control, DRLs, GPS, misc other bits) that would all be drawing power while I'm on the kill switch.

The original battery - Yuasa 10S - has a capacity of 8.6A/H. Its bigger brothers the 12S and 14S have 11A/H and 11.2A/H capacity respectively.  The 12S and 14S are physically taller but if the spacer in the battery box is removed then they'd fit easily.

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I can’t imagine that leaving ignition on with kill switch on off position for a while would drain your battery that quickly, unless your battery is on its final legs. 
I swapped to a Lithium on my Sprint over three years ago and then swapped it into the Tracer when I bought it and haven’t looked back. 
Less than half the weight and 10 Ah. 

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Also keep in the back of your head, modern motorcycles BARELY charge the battery at idle if not only maintain voltage. With these bikes being so sensitive to minimum voltage levels, I'd be hesitant to start/stop that much.

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