peteinpa Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Charcoal canister delete hmmmm... Did you do it? you have to do it right or you have a vacuum leak. I'd go over that again. A hose or plug may have come off or not been reconnected. You dont need it reflashed, unless you changed mufflers. I'd go over the APS settings again also. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 1 hour ago, kilo3 said: After all this tinkering with valves, no one's done a throttle body sync yet? I’ve at least got paperwork saying a sync was done, but no numbers to back that up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 38 minutes ago, peteinpa said: Charcoal canister delete hmmmm... Did you do it? you have to do it right or you have a vacuum leak. I'd go over that again. A hose or plug may have come off or not been reconnected. You dont need it reflashed, unless you changed mufflers. I'd go over the APS settings again also. I did do the delete myself, but that was summer 2018 and it’s been fine. Maybe someone knocked a cap loose during the service. I do plan to look at that, and make sure that aps adjustment isn’t loose, and the numbers are still happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted January 27, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted January 27, 2021 6 hours ago, texscottyd said: My Dodge truck behaved that way when there was an issue with a temperature sensor, which apparently teamed up with the the air mass meter to confuse the throttle body. My dodge truck had similar symptoms a few years back, it turned out to be a $15 throttle position sensor. I recall reading about (possibly) the same issue on the FZ09 forum, there were several threads about faulty TPS. 3 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 (edited) So, I finally had some time to dig into this. Tore the bike down to get the ECU out to send for a reflash, and went to check the hoses from my charcoal canister delete, AND A BROKEN VACUUM CAP FELL OFF IN MY HAND. I stuck a new one one, checked the APS tension, and ran the APS diagnostic. That all looked good, so now it’s time for a test ride. I swear, if I bought a new bike because of a #$&! vacuum cap... Edited March 6, 2021 by angrygirafe 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supporting Member betoney Posted March 6, 2021 Supporting Member Share Posted March 6, 2021 47 minutes ago, angrygirafe said: That all looked good, so now it’s time for a test ride. I swear, if I bought a new bike because of a #$&! vacuum cap... Oh, that would be too funny... not HAHA funny but "HOLY SH!T, I cant believe it" funny. 1 ***2015 Candy Red FJ-09*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted March 6, 2021 Author Share Posted March 6, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, betoney said: Oh, that would be too funny... not HAHA funny but "HOLY SH!T, I cant believe it" funny. I’ll laugh and cry if that’s the case. But I don’t know yet, because when the wife and I hopped on to go for a spin, the dash displayed a fault code “60” and wouldn’t start. Apparently that’s related to the YCCT. Checked all the fuses and battery voltage, which was fine. And then we said “meh, tomorrow” and hopped on the Zero. Tomorrow I’ll make sure I plugged everything back in Edited March 6, 2021 by angrygirafe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 That would be a big vac. leak. That's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 Can’t clear this Fault 60. Tore down and rechecked electrical connections. I don’t think I disconnected anything other than battery, turn signals, ECU, and tank. Can’t find any spare wires floating around. I checked and ohmed every fuse, including under the right fairing. Going into Diag + Data, 60 shows no data, and 61 scrolls through a half dozen numbers. Flipping the right hand start switch to off doesn’t clear anything. Trying to crank the bike, it makes all the right noises, and the dash stops displaying the Fault code, but it won’t catch. Letting off the starter, the dash goes back to Fault 60. Ugh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteinpa Posted March 7, 2021 Share Posted March 7, 2021 Got a battery charger? Unless the ECU sees the min. voltage it won't start and I think sets code 60. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted March 7, 2021 Author Share Posted March 7, 2021 1 hour ago, peteinpa said: Got a battery charger? Unless the ECU sees the min. voltage it won't start and I think sets code 60. It’s on the baby battery tender now. Unfortunately my meter is just a leftover from sparky days, so it just shows 12v, no decimals. I should have checked it the first time to see if it was 13 or 14. It could be on its way out though; it’s two years old, but two years in Phoenix, especially after last summer is rough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 The drama continues. I got a new battery installed, and still getting the Fault 60 on the dash. It's trying to start, and it sounds like it almost catches a few times, but nada. What's really bugging me is if I get into DIAG + INFO, and scroll to 60, it shows 00 - no data. I did go to 61, and it scrolled through a handful of numbers. I went to 62, and toggled the start switch to reset the errors. Now, 60 shows 00, 61 shows 00, and 62 shows 1. The dash still shows 60 during a normal startup. I can't think of where else to look. I've checked EVERY fuse at least three times, ohmed EVERY fuse once, cleaned each 7.5 amp fuse with contact cleaner, replaced the ETV fuse with a new one. Ohmed and cleaned that. Replaced the battery. Hunted for sensors that I might have disconnected. The only things that I can think I unplugged are front turn signals, ECU, and fuel tank. ECU gets plugged back in to test, and I've tried the DIAG + DATA mode with the fuel tank unplugged and plugged back in. Only thing I can think of is maybe I pulled a wire loose in the one of the ECU connectors? That'll be fun to trace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 @angrygirafe the numbers you cleared via DIAG mode in channel 61 and 62 and what you’re experiencing in DIAG? Normal. 62 is the number of occurrences THAT HAVE BEEN REPAIRED. 61 Is the actual fault code number. This is a VERY important distinction to understand. finally, the reason fault code number 60 shows on the IC display and NOT channel 61 is because it is ACTIVE and not yet REPAIRED. Hopefully that clears things up... -Skip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
angrygirafe Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 6 minutes ago, skipperT said: @angrygirafe the numbers you cleared via DIAG mode in channel 61 and 62 and what you’re experiencing in DIAG? Normal. 62 is the number of occurrences THAT HAVE BEEN REPAIRED. 61 Is the actual fault code number. This is a VERY important distinction to understand. finally, the reason fault code number 60 shows on the IC display and NOT channel 61 is because it is ACTIVE and not yet REPAIRED. Hopefully that clears things up... -Skip Thanks Skip, that does help a bit, and it's encouraging to know that at least that is normal. Guess now I need to decide if I'm going to take it to shop yet again and hope that this time it comes back better instead of worse, or just light it on fire in the back yard and be done with it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skipperT Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 (edited) 23 minutes ago, angrygirafe said: Thanks Skip, that does help a bit, and it's encouraging to know that at least that is normal. Guess now I need to decide if I'm going to take it to shop yet again and hope that this time it comes back better instead of worse, or just light it on fire in the back yard and be done with it. No Problem... Sorry, I had to go and consult the service manual: on page 8-70 (my 2015-2016 book anyway) is a box with a description of fault code 60: YCC-T malfunction. Things to check are listed there, but if it were me - I'd head straight to the 7.5A fuse under the seat, labeled ETV or Electronic Throttle Valve. I'd expect it to be blown, replace and you should be all set. Even if it doesn't look blown, swap in another and report back. EDIT: looks based on this thread that you have already done that... Still I would replace that 7.5A fuse with another to be sure. Next, did you loosen and remove the APS sensor from the throttle body? If so check that it's installed correctly. Check to make sure the connectors aren't reversed (TPS->APS connector and APS -> TPS connector. On that note - the plugs for the Coil Packs are THE SAME as the plug for the YCC-T motor, I think it would be difficult to mix up on this engine, but verify. DIAG mode can help too: use the same channels as adjusting TPS/APS settings and see if there are any values (DIAG channel 1, 13, 14, and 15) when the throttle is rotated. Silly question, but are the cables connected properly? do they rotate the APS the proper direction (may not be possible to mix up but still... If nothing above helps, it will be down to tracing wires: at the 4P, 1 is power, 1 ground, and the other 2 are output voltages FROM the sensor TO the ECM. In theory you should have 12v on 1 wire each at the 4P connector of the TPS/APS and continuity to ground on 1 wire with key on. If we need to get more detailed I'll need to do more research and get back to you... If you need more help, post back too. HTH, Skip Edited March 13, 2021 by skipperT re-read the thread... 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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