Drive Mode B

[Skidood]

Hi all, just curious about something,...just got a 2019 GT and apart from driving it 100 yards around the dealer parking lot, I haven't driven it. I'm a returning rider after 25 years and have to get my sea legs back in the spring.  I understand that the throttle response has a bit of a pronounced  "herkie- jerkiness" to it at very low speeds or just coming off idle... I am wondering if, during my first couple of white-knuckle outings, when putting around the city streets here at low speeds, will Mode B eliminate this jerkiness? 

[betoney]

25 minutes ago, Skidood said:

Hi all, just curious about something,...just got a 2019 GT and apart from driving it 100 yards around the dealer parking lot, I haven't driven it. I'm a returning rider after 25 years and have to get my sea legs back in the spring.  I understand that the throttle response has a bit of a pronounced  "herkie- jerkiness" to it at very low speeds or just coming off idle... I am wondering if, during my first couple of white-knuckle outings, when putting around the city streets here at low speeds, will Mode B eliminate this jerkiness? 

In most conditions, yes, B-mode will be smoother, it has a slower throttle feel.  A few other things you can check (since it is brand new) is chain slack, they usually come too tight from the factory and also throttle cable slack adjustment, I found that reducing the cable slack improves the throttle feel. 

After adjusting the throttle cable, ALWAYS check by starting the engine and turning the steering to full lock left and right and make sure the idle doesn't change. 

[open1mind]

It sounds like you, like me, grew up riding bikes with Carbs, not FI.  I sometimes miss the carb bikes because modern FI always feel abrupt both going on the throttle and coming off.  Many here will disagree, but I can build a better and faster rhythm in the twisties in mode B.  Maybe my fine motor skills are just not good enough to be smooth with mode A- because I am never in that mode.

 

As stated- keeping the cable and chain in spec can make a big difference....

[betoney]

8 minutes ago, open1mind said:

It sounds like you, like me, grew up riding bikes with Carbs, not FI.  I sometimes miss the carb bikes because modern FI always feel abrupt both going on the throttle and coming off.  Many here will disagree, but I can build a better and faster rhythm in the twisties in mode B.

Yes, over 45 years riding -and jetting- dirtbikes. 

Over the years, I have developed a 'slower throttle hand' almost like a rheostat, slower and smoother on and off throttle while usually always maintaining some throttle input going into corners, never chopping it closed or whacking it open.  Even in A mode it can be very smooth.

[HGP61]

I had mine set to "B" mode for the first few weeks after I bought it. you will get used to the bike very quickly. Just take it easy and enjoy getting to know the bike. If I remember I try to switch to B mode for any low speed maneuvering or U turns and such like. 

[Heli ATP]

To start use the most conservative throttle and TCS modes to prevent unwanted wheelies. B mode for throttle and TCS 2 on (traction control system)..... have fun. 😀

[Salish900]

5 hours ago, betoney said:

Yes, over 45 years riding -and jetting- dirtbikes. 

Over the years, I have developed a 'slower throttle hand' almost like a rheostat, slower and smoother on and off throttle while usually always maintaining some throttle input going into corners, never chopping it closed or whacking it open.  Even in A mode it can be very smooth.

This has been my experience with the 900 as well. Smooth throttle inputs. The 900 is actually far smoother than my Connie had been. Man, if you aren't careful on a Connie you are peeling out the rear wheel on wet roads half the time.  I ride my 900 almost exclusively in Std and find it incredibly smooth at low speeds. But like @betoney says, it's all in the wrist...

[kilo3]

I'm going to go against the grain here and say that b mode and standard are pretty poor.  I much prefer A, however it's too aggressive off idle.  I wish there was a way to map the throttle input much like an equalizer for audio.
My solution this winter is two fold:
#1, reduce throttle pull, i have wrist issues and this may be a large source of my problem:

#2, i may also try the throttle tamer to help with the low level inputs.

What I want, but not possible, is B mode for 1/3 throttle and A mode for anything above 1/3.

[Skidood]

4 hours ago, Heli ATP said:

To start use the most conservative throttle and TCS modes to prevent unwanted wheelies. B mode for throttle and TCS 2 on (traction control system)..... have fun. 😀

Unwanted wheelies??   Holy crap....Is there a C-mode?  🙂   Lol.

Edited December 18, 2020 by Skidood

[WKE002]

I used B mode most time as cruising mostly, wait x sprocket change, going to change to much gentler (forgot was it larger or smaller front). 
 

there is a product discussed before in this forum, a device from denmark plug and play, i recalled it give a smooth slow down when throttle off but not sure if same goes for acceleration. 

[betoney]

5 minutes ago, Skidood said:

Unwanted wheelies??   Holy crap....Is there a C-mode?  🙂   Lol.

Don't worry, even in A-mode you would have to be extremely careless or deliberately trying in order to wheelie.  I have accelerated very hard on  highway on ramps several times, hard enough to activate the TCS and it always keeps the front end down like it is designed to do.

[betoney]

9 minutes ago, WKE002 said:

I used B mode most time as cruising mostly, wait x sprocket change, going to change to much gentler (forgot was it larger or smaller front). 
 

there is a product discussed before in this forum, a device from denmark plug and play, i recalled it give a smooth slow down when throttle off but not sure if same goes for acceleration. 

+1 tooth larger front or -2 or 3 on the rear will give you mellower acceleration and slightly lower cruising rpm on the highway.

This is the product you were looking for.

Yamaha MT-09 Tracer BoosterPlug

---

The BoosterPlug offers instant drivability improvements for your Yamaha...

 

[texscottyd]

11 minutes ago, betoney said:

you would have to be extremely careless or deliberately trying in order to wheelie.

Now I just feel personally attacked...  

For the record, I prefer the term ‘enlightened’ to ‘extremely careless’   

[2and3cylinders]

-1 in front & +1 in the rear, flash with quicker but smoother off/on throttle transition and keep it above 4500~5500 or better, 6500~9500 RPM in the twisties with a calibrated wrist, taught clutch and throttle cables (I put in a XSR S/A clutch long ago and USE it!) and a LOOSER chain.

I was raised on 2 smoke tarmac terrors, hard tires, expansion chambers and sweet carbs.  A dialed in carbset is IMO better than any FI I've ever tried...

Standard in the tight stuff and A everywhere else, B mode in the shizzle when its REALLY bad.

[Skidood]

6 hours ago, Salish900 said:

The 900 is actually far smoother than my Connie had been. Man, if you aren't careful on a Connie you are peeling out the rear wheel on wet roads half the time. 

Hey man, what's a Connie?  Oh never mind I see its a Concours...wow, last year when I was starting to look at bikes again, I fell in love with one at the dealer and thats when it all started with deciding to get a bike after 25 years away...and now I have a Tracer....I would have loved that bike.

Edited December 19, 2020 by Skidood