Niken chain auto oilers

[maximNikenGT]

Super helpful. In the Pro Oiler package sent for the Niken this is the bracket they sent me.

Will do a test fitting to see if it actually can align true to the sprocket without crafting a similar bracket. As far as nozzle placement, does it matter if you align the nozzles to dispense oil at the lowest point between sprocket teeth (see diagram position 1) or did you actually have it on the actual sprocket wheel itself closest to the outer edge (see diagram position 2)?  

If it is position 2, when  I did a test fitting to check tolerances the y shaped dispenser nozzle appeared to rub both sides of the sprocket a bit too tightly when I aligned it to the sprocket wheel. Is that normal?

[maximNikenGT]

On 7/8/2021 at 3:55 AM, biggo said:

A few pictures of my bracket just made it out of a spare piece of aluminum bar I had in shed.

I had intended for to fit on inner edge of threaded holes in swing arm but fitted it on outside in the end because of profile on inner side of swingarm mad it not square. I would like to make a neater job but its been on for 6000 kms now and works ok . No problems with either stands on bike

Hey Biggo,

How did you drill such clean holes in the aluminum? Bench vise and hand drill?

[maximNikenGT]

Alright, finally had some time to work on the ProOiler install. Went to Lowes Home Improvement and bought a piece of 2' x 1.5" aluminum for about $11 USD. 

Using Biggo's design as a guideline, I cut the bar down to 1 foot and then tried to drill mounting holes for where the two rear mounting holes would go. To cut the aluminum, I used a Bosch jigsaw cutter with metal blade attachment. Then using a set of Nyko drill punches, I measured as close as possible to where the mounting holes were and used the drill punch to set a starter point in an attempt to minimize the amount of drill bit wandering when it came time to make holes. 

Through a lot of trial and error, I now understand why Biggo went with the pattern that he did for his mounting bracket. 

The hardest part was figuring out exactly where the aluminum bracket holes to mount to the rear swingarm should be as well as where the hole to mount the ProOiler bracket should be. The mounting holes located on the inside of the swingarm won't allow the straight bar to be mounted evenly because of the irregular shapes along the backside. So one has to mount the homemade bracket on the outside of the swingarm.  But now it becomes very difficult to try to even mark exactly where the holes need to be since there's not enough clearance on the backside to insert a pen/punch/marker to mark the exact hole locations. Incidentally, all three holes require the use of a 5/16 inch drill bit to accommodate the appropriate screws. 

Also, when using your drill to make the mounting holes, be sure that you have appropriate drill bits that can drill through metal. Take safety precautions since the there will be some sharp metal shavings and the likelihood of metal dust as a byproduct is not something you want to inhale. Be sure to cut and drill the aluminum someplace that is well ventilated. 

Also, when trying to figure out where to mount the ProOiler bracket to the aluminum, ProOiler packages a set of about 5 plastic washers that you can use to adjust exactly where the oil Y nozzle dispenser needs to be. The problem is that plastic washers flex pretty bad when trying to just mount the arm to the aluminum and I was concerned that they won't hold up long term to adverse weather conditions.

I swapped the 5 plastic washers for 3 metal washers and was able to get the oil Y nozzle dispenser lined up exactly straight on both sides of the rear chain gear. Getting this to line up just right and not be a potential snag hazard on the rear chain was the hardest part. 

I also had to utilize a M6 coupling nut in addition to a longer length screw to mount the ProOiler bracket to the aluminum. M6 Long Rod Nut Hex Coupling Nut Straight Fitting Hex Rod Threaded Bar Rod Studding Hex Zinc Plated 10pcs(M6 X18mm): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific I used a M6x45mm length bolt. since the stock bolt was too short to do the job. Currently I've got a M6 coupling nut holding the backside together temporarily until I can do my final finishing touches on the aluminum bracket, but will ultimately replace the M6 coupling nut with a nylock nut. 

I started at about 7PM and by 11PM I had a reasonably decent bracket that appears as though it should do the job. Need to add some final finishing touches e.g. cut off the sharp corners for safety and cut out a notch between the two mounting points so that it doesn't interfere with swingarm chain adjustments in the future. These potential cutting points were marked using a grease pencil, and I plan on making the bare minimum of cuts necessary to not impede swingarm adjustments but maximizing safety (no sharp edges that could harm rider/passenger) and reducing unnecessary weight.

Edited November 18, 2021 by maximNikenGT
added photos

[knyte]

You may have already figured this out:

My g/f's Scottoiler has a simple tube running along the rear swingarm held in place with zip ties and dble sided tape (so as to be discrete, it's not horrid looking).  Not kidding.  In over 100,000 km's this has held up fine through all kinds of weather and road conditions with little fiddling.

Hers is situated like so - such that the end of the tube rubs on the sprocket - this bit of friction creates the right shape for the tip:

 

Idea being, it pumps out small amounts of oil right about there and flings outward from sprocket to the chain.  Ez pz.

Looks like you might have a more sophisticated setup.

[Wintersdark]

Likewise both of my bikes running Tutoro oilers just use a tube with zip ties and double sided tape.  The pvc hose from the tutoro has a metal wire inside it for the last ~5" or so, and this can be bent into whatever shape you want to lead from where it leaves your swingarm to the sprocket.  

 

 

[maximNikenGT]

4 hours ago, knyte said:

You may have already figured this out:

My g/f's Scottoiler has a simple tube running along the rear swingarm held in place with zip ties and dble sided tape (so as to be discrete, it's not horrid looking).  Not kidding.  In over 100,000 km's this has held up fine through all kinds of weather and road conditions with little fiddling.

Hers is situated like so - such that the end of the tube rubs on the sprocket - this bit of friction creates the right shape for the tip:

 

Idea being, it pumps out small amounts of oil right about there and flings outward from sprocket to the chain.  Ez pz.

Looks like you might have a more sophisticated setup.

I couldn't quite tell if it was supposed to be position 1 or position 2 since I've never seen anyone in person with one, but position 2 makes sense as far as positioning the y-nozzle further in from the gear teeth and just letting centrifugal force disperse the oil to the chains as they make contact. Super helpful. Thank you. 

[maximNikenGT]

Ok - while I'm taking a break from working with the aluminum I decided to tackle the wiring setup.

DRILLING HOLES IN THE CONTROL UNIT BOX: 

If you don't order the control unit pre-drilled with holes for the 4 sets of wires, then you'll need to break out your drill with bits (5/16" and 3/16" bits were what I used) to make three sets of holes. Two holes using the larger 5/16" bit, and one smaller 3/16" hole. The 5/16" holes I reserved for the controller cable for one hole, and then the other is to route the GPS cable along with the power and ground cables running to my Arboreal Systems power distribution unit. The smaller hole I reserved for the two cables needed to power the pump. 

WIRING CONFIGURATION OF CONTROL UNIT: 

You've got 3 different wiring options depending on whether you're using:

Option A: a reed switch+magnet option,

Option B: an electronic speedometer pulse option or 

Option C : the GPS unit. 

I've got the GPS unit option so I'll be configuring as follows:

Control box connection number and its wire connection:

1. GPS Green wire

2. Not used

3.Controller Unit black wire

4.Controller Unit blue wire

5. Controller Unit red wire

6. Controller Unit green wire 

7. Pump out (interchangeable)

8. Pump out (interchangeable)

9. Power distribution unit black (-) power cable + GPS blue wire

10. Power distribution unit red (+) power cable + GPS red wire

I went ahead and connected the pump, GPS and power distribution power cables, but held off on connecting the controller until I know where I plan on mounting it. Would like to mount it closer to the handlebars, but may end up keeping it under the seat since it's set it and leave it. Haven't decided yet. 

Will also need to figure out where to mount the oil reservoir and run the oil lines to the pump. Doesn't look there's any space under the seat to mount the oil reservoir..

Edited November 19, 2021 by maximNikenGT
Added photos

[PhotoAl]

I mounted my Scottoiler Scorpion using a simple bracket and the hole on the swingarm for a rear spool.  The Scorpion is a dual outlet nozzle that puts oil on both sides of the sprocket.  It is more in position 2 and at a slight downward angle not as steep a slope as in the diagram.  Originally had a piece that hooked into the back of the swingarm but took it off before the last trip.  I actually fiddled with the oiler one day on the trip, easy to take off and adjust the nozzles - just one hex head bolt.  The rear bolt uses thread locker but the front is just tightened.  Has been in place for 6,500 miles with no issues thru heat cold and heavy rain.  

I have a drip press for the holes and a bench vice to bend.  Aluminum came from Home Depot and the corners were rounded with a angle grinder.  File works but takes longer.

 

[maximNikenGT]

24 minutes ago, PhotoAl said:

I mounted my Scottoiler Scorpion using a simple bracket and the hole on the swingarm for a rear spool.  The Scorpion is a dual outlet nozzle that puts oil on both sides of the sprocket.  It is more in position 2 and at a slight downward angle not as steep a slope as in the diagram.  Originally had a piece that hooked into the back of the swingarm but took it off before the last trip.  I actually fiddled with the oiler one day on the trip, easy to take off and adjust the nozzles - just one hex head bolt.  The rear bolt uses thread locker but the front is just tightened.  Has been in place for 6,500 miles with no issues thru heat cold and heavy rain.  

I have a drip press for the holes and a bench vice to bend.  Aluminum came from Home Depot and the corners were rounded with a angle grinder.  File works but takes longer.

 

I have a new appreciation for beautifully made brackets.   Your bracket is wonderfully done. Wish I  had a drill press and angle/bench grinder though.

Grinder would be great to round off the sharp corners. What kind of grinding wheel did you use?

Also your bends look great. How did you bend the aluminum so clean with a bench vise? My metal bends never  look that professional...🤔

Edited November 19, 2021 by maximNikenGT

[maximNikenGT]

Did a test fitting of the oil reservoir, oddly enough there's actually enough space in front of the battery to fit the reservoir. Only downside is I'd have to take off the seat in order to check and refill the oil reservoir, but it works.  

[PhotoAl]

I used a cutoff wheel on a Ryobi 18V grinder.  Not expensive if you already have batteries and good for stripping paint off steel with a wire wheel.  

I put my oil reservoir in one of the side pods (Tracer 900 GT), have to take the seat off to refill but that is not so often - maybe every oil change or less.

[maximNikenGT]

10 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

I used a cutoff wheel on a Ryobi 18V grinder.  Not expensive if you already have batteries and good for stripping paint off steel with a wire wheel.  

I put my oil reservoir in one of the side pods (Tracer 900 GT), have to take the seat off to refill but that is not so often - maybe every oil change or less.

Do you have  a picture of how you mounted your oil reservoir? Am debating whether I want the reservoir that far out of reach under my seat since it would require me to unbolt my seats to access every time. 

[maximNikenGT]

Already continued the trimming of the aluminum piece using a metal saw on my jigsaw. Got the general cuts done but need to borrow someone's bench grinder to round off the edges and make it look proper. SAFETY TIP: Highly recommend you do this cutting in a well-ventilated area with eye protection and a breathing mask to keep from breathing in aluminum dust or having the dust particles go into your eyes. Also wear gloves and long clothes so that metal shavings won't accidentally cut/splinter you. 

In the meantime, I went ahead and tried to connect all the wiring to my Arboreal systems Neutrino power distribution unit. Hardest part was trying to adhere to the Pro-oiler guidelines of ensuring that the oil pump wasn't further than 40cm from the oil reservoir. Only way to do that and have the electronics hidden under the seat is to have the oil reservoir mounted somewhere outside of the seat. 

I was able to pack in the pump controller, the GPS unit as well as the pump in the cavity directly underneath the front of the pillion seat - which appears to be the only place one can put them without interfering with normal seat operation. 

Once I test fitted all the electronics, I then test fitted the routing of the oil line from the oil bottle to the pump and then from the pump to where the y-nozzle dispenser would ultimately be mounted. Ideally, instructions indicate that the breather line for the oil bottle needs to run lengthwise along the bike, and that the pump should not be too much higher or lower than the breather line. I would have thought one would want the bottle higher than the pump to take advantage of additional natural pressure and reduce the strain on the pump (e.g. fluid will want to go from higher to lower pressure in the tube). 

My one question is, which one of the tubes coming out of the oil bottle is the actual breather line and which one is suppose to actually run to the oil pump? The key difference between the two tubes is that one happens to have some kind of brass looking weight and additional tubing (assumably to siphon oil from the bottom of the bottle) - see picture. 

Edited December 8, 2021 by maximNikenGT
Added photos

[maximNikenGT]

Alright, finally had some time to work on the aluminum bracket. Borrowed father's bench grinder to soften up the sharp edges and round off the corner cuts.   Used my headlamp to guide me through the final steps of attaching the Y nozzle to the custom fabricated aluminum bracket and ran all the necessary power cables and confirmed that the oil delivery line is indeed the one with the tube connected with the brass filter inside the oil bottle. Hat tip to Biggo for the confirmation! 😀

Powered everything up after reconnecting the motorcycle battery and set the new power port 6 to the Pro Oiler on the Arboreal Systems Neutrino Aurora. 

Everything fired up and got a primer indicator on the Pro Oiler control. Only thing now is to get some motor oil to fill the oil bottle. Funny that I finally got everything connected and I don't have any motor oil to prime the system and do a test run. 

[maximNikenGT]

This was my attempt at adding samurai style sword etching to the aluminum bracket using the bench grinder to make it look fancy. Definitely not Applebee's on a date night...

Edited December 16, 2021 by maximNikenGT