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Warchild

2020 GT: a pleasant and convenient discovery

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Well, this was unexpected - and very convenient. Went to hook up the "spare" aux circuit located behind the windscreen mechanisms that everyone refers to, and discovered not only the gray one, but a second unused, uncapped black connector. Both are switched circuits... and I have plans for both of them. 👍

 

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Not to hijack your thread but I've got a question about those. I have a set of Denali D2s that I would like to run all the time- don't need them to be switched.  They use 10 watts each. Would it be ok to tie them into one of those connections? Thanks in advance 

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3 minutes ago, cwjb said:

Not to hijack your thread but I've got a question about those. I have a set of Denali D2s that I would like to run all the time- don't need them to be switched.  They use 10 watts each. Would it be ok to tie them into one of those connections? Thanks in advance 

Probably be fine. 20-watts is roughly a 1.7amp draw on our 12v systems, so even if they are fused by one of the 2-amp circuits - which is likely -  you'd still be good to go.  👍

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I tried to find a connector to match the black one, but was unable to. I checked Cycle Terminal and fleabay. 

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@Warchild - That black connector is for the second cigarette outlet accessory option.   Dig around some more and see if you find another of those grey capped connectors.   If memory serves, there are two of the grey ones, plus the black one.   

Or maybe I’m still hallucinating from ingesting too much brake fluid last weekend...  :) 

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I'm guessing that the "cap" on the gray one is actually the female connector without pins and wires. I've seen that before. Maybe someone else here can chime in with the number and size of those pins.

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12 minutes ago, cwjb said:

I'm guessing that the "cap" on the gray one is actually the female connector without pins and wires. I've seen that before. Maybe someone else here can chime in with the number and size of those pins.

Yes this is true. I used one grey for my GPS and the other for my DZELL knuckle guard LED lights.

Search online for related connectors...

Yamaha pins & connectors

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1 hour ago, Warchild said:

Well, this was unexpected - and very convenient. Went to hook up the "spare" aux circuit located behind the windscreen mechanisms that everyone refers to, and discovered not only the gray one, but a second unused, uncapped black connector. Both are switched circuits... and I have plans for both of them. 👍

 

2-connectors.thumb.jpg.01f92fc09a4bb4afb513a6fcb5750616.jpg

Yup, all three are switched.  Note that each has a 2A fuse, so keep that in mind - 2A @ 12V, though, of course - some get worried about phone chargers needlessly.  Mine run the normal 12v outlet on the left, the control board for my home made wireless charger coil on my RAM mount, and a USB charger (cheap Aliexpress version with voltage display) on the right.  

 

If you buy the opposing connectors, it's pretty snazzy, but I just cut them off and replaced them with crimp on bullet connectors and called it a day.  I found having two different types of connectors for the same things to be silly. 

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48 minutes ago, texscottyd said:

@Warchild - That black connector is for the second cigarette outlet accessory option.   Dig around some more and see if you find another of those grey capped connectors.   If memory serves, there are two of the grey ones, plus the black one.   

Or maybe I’m still hallucinating from ingesting too much brake fluid last weekend...  :) 

At least on the 2019 and 2020, the black and white connectors are identical with the white connector attached to the 12v socket on the dash and the black available for a second 12v socket (or whatever else) on the other side of the dash.  The grey is the "Extra, for whatever" connector and uses a different type of connector that's common throughout modern Yamaha bikes as an "auxiliary power connector."  All three are 2A fused and ignition switched.

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1 hour ago, Warchild said:

Probably be fine. 20-watts is roughly a 1.7amp draw on our 12v systems, so even if they are fused by one of the 2-amp circuits - which is likely -  you'd still be good to go.  👍

No problem without using a relay?

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39 minutes ago, cwjb said:

No problem without using a relay?

I wouldn't bother, myself.

You are just not drawing a ton of power if your lights are truly 10-watts a-piece. If the electrical goody being powered is high-draw, you definitely want to use a relay, and perhaps a beefier gauge wire.

The Aux Driving lamps I installed do take a more noteworthy amount of power, so they get the 30-amp relay and 16-gauge wires: 

 

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@Warchild on the topic of relays... Did you route both power and trigger wires for your aux light relay through the Fuzeblock? Or did you tap the battery directly with the 16ga power wires? I ran both lines for my aux lights through my Fuzeblock, but my lights draw less than 2 amps each. This is well under the Fuzeblock's rating (10 amp max per circuit, 30 amps total), but it's also the first time I've used the Fuzeblock and I don't know how accurately rated these things are. 

I also have my heated jacket (~5.5 amps max) run through the Fuzeblock. That's more current than the aux lights, so I suppose I'm fine. 

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9 minutes ago, keithu said:

@Warchild on the topic of relays... Did you route both power and trigger wires for your aux light relay through the Fuzeblock?

No, I did not.

The lamps are fed by a single 10-amp circuit (position # 2, switched), using 16gauge cable all the way to the Bosch mini-relay input. The signal wire source is piggybacked off that 16g cable - runs to the handlebar switch, then back down to the relay to trigger it. The voltage to signal the relay is milli-amps - just trace signal voltage, so it's fine to piggy-back for that application.

The output side of the relay has two 18-gauge wires to feed the (+) connectors for the  aux lamps individually.

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Well, here is the rest of the story.... 😁

I am using the black connector to run a Datel digital voltmeter. This is the same one I used on the Hayabusa for a decade - important to me, because I installed a lot of electrical goodies on the bike, and you want to husband your power drains over the course of some of these long nutty rides I do. In the cold night, with aux lamps and heated gear is running, that's where I want to watch the electrical health the closest.

Without the other end of the Yamaha connector handy, I just made my own connectors to fit those small pins inside the black connector:

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The leads are then carefully inserted into the Yamaha connector:

 

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Then some marine-grade heat shrink  to protect the connection:

 

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All tidied up with a bit of BMW fabric electrical tape - even though, again, it's risking a final drive leak on the Tracer to use BMW tape...  😃

 

BMWfabricTape.thumb.jpg.9e55f4c9783b7d309d2bc72a32627db2.jpg 

 

Now for the dicey part of the install: the circular Datel needs a 33mm hole for a snug fit. Of course, the right-side opening is ~31.5mm, so its DRILLING time!  😬  First,  I drape the drilling port like it's going in for surgery - because it its! 

 

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This was a gnarly drilling exercise... no fun at all... 😖. When complete, the hole is deburred, and the Datel fitted.

 

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The Yamaha connectors are then tucked back into their rubber sleeve,  the Datel feed wires are tidied up with a small zip-tie holder, the zipped into place:

 

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Viewed directly from the pilot's seat... 14.2 volts at idle, looking pretty snazzy. 👍  

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Its nice to see good charging at idle. Many bikes in the not too distant past would be draining at idle and not charging well even at their best.

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