Robber

On 5/1/2024 at 3:53 AM, OZVFR said:

You’re right about the rear brake not doing anything during traction control, but it does cut power if it detects the front wheel slowing compared to the rear ( as in lifting front wheel). With traction control on, my 15 front will only lifts an inch or so before TC cutting in, with TC off it will lift as much as you want. 
I have a favourite up hill hairpin corner that I wring it’s neck as I start to lift bike up, TC will only slightly lift the front as I go through the gears from first with throttle wide open and slamming the QS. 
With TC off I can’t do that as it lifts front wheel too much and I have to keep using rear brake to control it. 

It’s not a sophisticated TC, but works well enough. 

  Yep that is my experience with the traction control.  It will just bounce the front end slightly as it cuts power as soon as the front end comes up, and puts it back on when it gets down.  Except I dont slam the shifts and rarely do WOT especially in the lower gears, since it just trips the TCS anyway.  

On 10/18/2023 at 10:07 AM, thanks4thefish said:

Not exactly about synthetic but semi-synthetic and my transmission whine. I tried the Actevo Castrol 10-40 and the (yeah I know your supposed to keep rev's up and all that) 6th gear whine has diminished by 90%. Wonyachdering if anyone has experienced this. I'm wondering if Dino oil on my next change will be even quieter?

I'm a marine engineer and we always do UOA (used oil analysis) and Rotella T6 in Diesel engines has the best viscosity longevity I have ever seen in some of those 1600 HP MTU engines. Like 400 hours and still protecting. We get it in 55 gallon drums. 

I was gonna do some oil experiments to cut down on that whine. You are talking about that one at around 45-55. So did you used synthetic or regular oil. I am running 10w40 mobile 4T synthetic and whine is annoying. 

 50+ mpg every tank so far!!  According to my "Fully app" keeps track of maintaince too.  I have gotten an average of 52.8 for 1800 miles since I bought the bike mid summer.  Now before you bash me for not riding correctly.  It is more of where I ride, you won't get better milage riding anywhere.  I do virtually zero city driving and stay away from traffic.  Mostly back roads and small hwys.  They tend to have posted speed limits of around 35 and less around here because of amount of corners which most of them are blind corners.  Parts of the roads have no sun so they stay damp most of the time I wonder about some mold on these, and gravel washed out from driveways is common.  So in reality I rarely see above 60mph which is fine cause I love to do do all the twists and hills and keep it at a pace I can enjoy the scenery.  Love the foothills of the Smokies.  I run b mode on these back roads much smoother in and out of corners and use regular grade fuel.  The computer was flashed by a previous owner so I don't know if std mode is really std.

On 8/19/2023 at 1:25 PM, DavidS said:

I don't wash my bike after every ride, I know, I know........

But when it is time, I take it down to the self service car wash and put in a few quarters and spray it clean. I make sure I get everything soaking wet, and the bugs are soft and come off easily and stand back a ways to reduce the pressure on the bike.

I have been doing this for a long time, and it seems to work great for me.

What there are actual people that wash their bike after every ride!!!

I thought that was just the "fair weather under 1000 miles a year Harley types"

I am 6’2 and have 2touring shields I have used.  A givi that is the bike now and a ermax.  The ermax gives me more wind protection but the Givi has less buffeting. With the Givi the wind hits me in the upper chest shoulder area and keeps me cooler for summer.  The ermax I will put back on when it cools off for more warmth. I will post pictures with a tape measure for height reference. (Sorry pictures contain to much data to post). I do like the looks of the tinted givi better. 
   I think I will try one of those lips though been thinking about it. 

You dont need a quick shifter.  Don’t all the FJ09 and Tracers have fully messed transmission?  My 15 does and I know some other models have it to. All you need to do is let up on throttle shift and re-throttle.  So it does basically the same as an aftermarket auto shifter inside the trans.  

I have a friend who has an older FJR 1300 and he was looking at my FJ09 and saying that the saddlebags are the same. He also mentioned that the side saddlebags have been known to come off (at least on the FJR) and showed me the fix of a pin through the bottom mount. I told him that I had not seen this on the FJ/tracer forum.  Has anyone had or heard of the side bags coming off on the FJ???

Thanks

Hey guys original OP here.  It has been interesting here.  There has been some helpful info here and also some post to laugh about.  
   I will tell you that I am not the type that goes for the keep the rpms high.  I like too go on comfortable rides and enjoy the scenery, as there is a lot in the foothills of the Smokies.  One thing I have noticed that around here they do not mark the corners and you it is not very often that you see the end of the corner.  In fact what they do is put up a few 30MPH speed limit signs instead of a couple dozen “speed warning signs”, as there is no lack of curves and turns on the back roads just lack of straight roads. The opposite of from I moved From. That is why I chose the FJ. Last two bikes where a cruiser and a Goldwing that was not my style but was good for my wife.  Anyway thanks for the replies. I think that the previous owner maybe put on cheap brakes. Thanks

7 hours ago, duckie said:

The Tracer engine has plenty of engine braking…..if you are in the right gear……meaning being up high in the rpm range. 
 

I seldom use the rear brake. No need to really. Ill use it in gravel, dirt, wet and for controlling speed for slow speed maneuvering such as in parking lots. 

For slow speed maneuvering, I set the throttle to a steady low rpm and then just use the rear brake to control slow speed instead of trying to do so with the throttle…….makes doing lock to lock figure eights a breeze. 

If ya put in HH and dont use them properly……you’ll get brake squeal.

But then again…….I can two finger brake with no problem with the stock front brakes…..and never have I needed more……for the street…….even at some of the speeds I carrying in the hills.

Engine braking is your friend…..

 

Sure any engine will brake with enough rpm.  In fact an engine brakes really well after you throw a rod!  Its just what degree of engine braking to RPM you want to do.

I would rather wear out brakes than an engine.  But that is my view/opinion yours may be different and that is ok for this topic.  I just dont want to buy a used vehicle from you. 

I replace all the brake fluid and it did not make any noteworthy improvement in breaking.  So yes the rear breaking on this FJ is weak. Next is the HH pads Some of you have talked about. 

Yes I do slow down with engine but with slipper clutch or maybe the FJ doesnt engine brake as well as I am used too. Anyway I like to be able to a good firm tap on rear brake as you are just getting to a long corner or switch back and notice the corner tightens quite a bit. 

  Thanks guys I will get some Hh pads and why I dont think there is air. I will bleed the brakes, in fact I was gonna to put new fluid in and purge the old fluid out later in the year. So I will just do that now. 

I am not talking lots of speed.  I have found that using the rear with the way a bike suspension is set up that it also compresses the springs slightly so you can enter the corner tight. 

I am not talking lots of speed.  I have found that using the rear with the way a bike suspension is set up that it also compresses the springs slightly so you can enter the corner tight. 

   I am new to the FJ about 500 miles now.  I noticed that the rear brakes are rather weak from what I am used to.  My question is this normal for the bike or is it just maybe cheap pads from the previous owner.  If it is normal what recommendations for a stickier rear pads.  Otherwise I will just replace them with a good quality replacement pads.    [ If I need to burn off a little speed just before corning I like using the rears brakes and It just seem to be way more effort than should be required.]

On 1/2/2023 at 9:21 PM, howie333 said:

Bike won't start up. turns over continually fine and sounds like engine is about to start, but when start switch is released. nothing. Then  battery is reading @ 11.9 volts. When battery is charged, I meter @ 12.4 volts and will start right up and if I shut off and start up several times in a row; problem  of not starting will repeat. I get 14.8 volts when running . Battery replaced less than a year ago. Bike is kept inside and occasionally put on battery tender if bike is down for more than a couple of weeks.  

 

Anyone have this problem; and If so, please help

 

Thank You...

Just had this happen this morning it would start right up let go of starter then it dies.  Tried a few things with throttle same thing.  Shut off key turn back on ran fine.  I chalked it up to not having key turned to on all the way. ( it is tucked down there not easiest to get to.  If it does it again I will replace ignition switch.

I know this is a few months old.  Just signed up to forum planning on getting a FJ soon(have Goldwing I have had almost 15 years).  You mentioned IPhone if that is the case I use Scenic and have for 5 years now.  I create routes for rides and find it much easier then Garmin and base maps.  I even made Identical routes on the base maps for others on my rides with Garmin and on Scenic for a while.  With Scenic you can hit start ride and it will track route then at end you can save or discard ride.  If you save the ride you can have it make a route from that ride, and you can also add to it or edit it if you want to choose a different road in the route.  it will tell you ride time, moving time, ave speed, highest speed, elevations during the route both by graft or by color on actual (route summary) map.  It does eat up lots of power though so for hour or longer you will need charging capacity.