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sareis

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Posts posted by sareis

  1. Sean I just went to a Buell site and read up on drain plug problems with over tightening the plugs. Seams to be the same issue that we have experienced with Yamaha's spec. of 31 ft. lbs. In short some were recommending that 16 ft. lbs be used on the Buell while using the stock set up of bolt with rubber O-ring. Note that if you use any thread sealant and tighten with a torque wrench, that you will be tightening more than the torque is showing on the wrench. Also (for others) note that by not cleaning the oil off the threads in the pan and on the bolts that you will over tighten the bolt if you use the Yamaha spec of 31 ft. lbs. 26-27 would be safe and more accurately in line with Mfrs recommendations of 31. I repeat this every chance I get as it seams to be a continuous problem, and new people to these bikes, end up stripping out the aluminium threads in the pans by tightening with a torque wrench to mfr's spec of 31 ft lbs.
    I agree with everything you are saying. I am very careful to clean threads before I tighten anything. I have built many engines and make sure I use the proper procedures. You are very right about oil and thread sealant being on the threads causing over tightening. I use a Snap-On torque wrench that gets calibrated every year and set to zero after every use to insure the proper torque. I have seen others tightening bolts with a torque wrench and when it clicks they give it a couple more pulls. Maybe this combined with oil being on the threads is what is happening when the strip the drain plug threads.  
    I personally wire wrap everything including my oil filter (K&N KN-204). I have jigs to drill the holes in the bolts if they don't have one.
     
    Thanks for doing the research and making everyone aware to be careful.
     
     
  2. HD suggests using LOCTITE 565 THREAD SEALANT and torque it to 26 to 29 lbs.
    Saries:  Please clarify on the HD drain plug.  Are you refering to a plug that uses an rubber O-ring glued to the bolt?  I would use 26-29 on an compressible washer or copper or alum. normally.   I would think that that torque high of torque would be too much on an O-ring and make it un-servicable later.  I currently have it installed on the FJ and it seams to be  working and holding just fine.
    Let me eloaborate a little on this.  
    I have had two Buells both 1200cc. I checked the manual on the torque specs for the 2009 XB12R.
     
    For the Primary (Trans):
    1. Wipe any foreign material from the magnetic drain plug,
    inspect/replace o-ring and apply LOCTITE 565 THREAD
    SEALANT. Reinstall plug and tighten to 14-30 ft-lbs (19-
    41 Nm).
     
    For the Oil (In the swingarm):
    1. Inspect drain plug O-ring for tears or damage. Replace if
    required. Wipe any foreign material from drain plug.
    2. Apply LOCTITE 565 THREAD SEALANT, reinstall plug
    and tighten to 26-29 ft-lbs (35-39 Nm).
     
    Both drain plugs were the same size and had replaceable o-rings. I replaced them every other oil change.
     
    HTH
     
    Sean
     
     
  3. Forget that post. I have discussed this with my mechanic and he doesn't see any problem. He is thinking that a torque should be 14-17 lbs.  Will wait to see what the Mazda plug looks like and what kind of seal it uses.  Got lots of time as I just changed my oil last week and it will take a few more weeks to log another 4K.
    Note: HD uses O-rings. If they don't vibrate out of an HD, .....................? :D
    No part number on the drain plug???  It came out of a box, the box had numbers but I didn't note them.  It stated the size as M10 x 1.5.  I'm not sure that is even the size needed but it looks right.  You know if it doesn't go in with using your fingers, it is the wrong size. :)   The o-ring is glued to the bolt flange and is in a slight recess.
    HD suggests using LOCTITE 565 THREAD SEALANT and torque it to 26 to 29 lbs.
     
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