theNatural

7 hours ago, kilo3 said:

For 10 bucks, I'd just replace it.
Keep in mind that 10k miles is probably based upon car/truck use, not applications with a shared transmission fluid.

If you want to go that route, just drain it and fill it up based on the oil sight, you can always add more if your low, messier to go the other way.

times are tight but i'll replace the filter too just in case

it's been 5k miles since the last oil change, and i was anticipating replacing the oil filter until i saw that the filter(purolator pl14612) is good up to 10k miles, so there's not point in replacement at this point.

so my question is whether i should remove the filter and let it drain for a few hours before i replace the oil? or should i just leave it on and then add the required oil minus what's in the filter?

8 hours ago, skipperT said:

Long needle nose pliers, preferably ones with a bend in the tip. 

https://www.kmstools.com/knipex-11-quot-angled-needle-nose-pliers.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-_HisPKH-gIVzz2tBh32JARhEAQYByABEgINI_D_BwE


the routing of the lower hose attached to the valve cover is critical, or it will get pinched. Pay attention to how it’s installed on the lower airbox fitting (there’s a dot in the hose, mark it and put it back same way)

yes, easier on the wiring harness if you disconnect ECM first. However you can leave attached if you disconnect the airbox from the throttle bodies, and then tip the airbox 45-90 degrees (turn it clockwise slightly) which will allow the ECM to slide out once you release the 2 tabs retaining it. 

-Skip

thanks for the tips.  i was able to get the hoses off with bent needle nose pliers.  it was more work than i anticipated, but i can definitely feel a difference in torque.  maybe i was running off less than the 3 cylinders?  in any case, she runs well

i'm trying to replace the spark plugs and am at the point of removing the airbox.  there is a hose going to the airbox with a special type of clamp.  how do i remove it?  i don't see anything about it in the repair manual.

also, should i disconnect the cables to the ecu or just remove the ecu from the airbox?  thanks

i dropped the master link and the grease basically came off.   what can i use as a substitute?

fortunately, the stud was still good enough to torque sprocket nut to 43 ft/lbs, and replaced the broken nut with one from home depot (which actually looks sturdier than the stock nut).

On 8/19/2021 at 8:39 AM, PhotoAl said:

I agree - it is such a tempting site!  Kind of wish I had bought the DLC caliper bolts.  

I put my bike back together Tuesday evening and these showed up Wednesday.  Thinking will just keep the caliper bolts for next time I pull the front wheel off.  Rear sprocket nuts currently at 43 foot pounds and thinking of replacing just the one I messed up - it tightened up OK but don't want to press my luck.  Currently no Locktight on them.  After I replace the rounded off nut will take them all to 50 foot pounds.

Sprockets that I pulled off after 11,000 miles looked very good.  Probably could have done without replacing even the front but hopefully this chain will last a long time.

 

looking at the studs you bought, why is there a section with no threads?

1 hour ago, draco_1967 said:

Edit: Also, when reinstalling new studs, check what the manual says. Usually, these are not screwed in until they bottom out. That will likely strip out the stud holes when the sprocket nuts get torqued. 

thanks.  i'll try that.

what do you mean 'bottom out'?

13 hours ago, PhotoAl said:

Stud doesn't look too bad to me but I'm not an expert.  I probably would not go the full tightness of 59 foot pounds on that stud.  Would also clean it up with a wire brush before installing the sprocket.  I have a small brass wire brush from Harbor Freight or Northern Tools that I cleaned up my brake caliper bolts with.  My studs look better but my bike is only 11 months old.

If you had a replacement stud and could remove that one and put the new one in without issue then I would say replace.  I ordered two yesterday just in case I messed up but looks like I won't need them.  I'm going to use all new nuts just because I have them coming.  To remove the front sprocket I'm bolting the new rear sprocket down with the old nuts and tightening them firmly.  I will replace them one the new ones arrive Wednesday.  I'm leaving next week on a 5,000 mile trip and don't want to have an issue with the chain or sprockets so I'm being cautious.  

I was looking at the ring earlier and not sure what it's purpose is other than in the event a chain were to come off it would simply spin on the ring and not become jammed in the wheel and swingarm.  My sport bikes did not have a ring.  I am reinstalling mine.  

how would you remove the stud?  it looks like it's really jammed in there

i was finally able to get the nut off by cutting it in two places, opposite of each other.  i was able to screw it off.  there is a little bit of damage on the stud (can't post pic because of file size limit).  is it necessary to have the circular brace when setting the sprocket?  i want to try to fasten it again but the brace was preventing me from using a nut splitter, so i had to drill away for an hour

14 hours ago, whisperquiet said:

Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel……cut the nut off.

currently trying this method.  will post a pic when i get home from a work

in the course of tightening the rear nut sprockets to 58 ft/lbs, one of the nuts kept spinning and didn't tighten.  it also wouldn't come off.  the stud is not moving, so the bolt and/or the stud threads are stripped. 

i tried using a vice-grip to unscrew while i pulled up, but that's not working. 

any advice on what to try?