steveb
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Posts posted by steveb
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Did this one about a year and a half ago. The FJ did great! https://fj-09.org/thread/4366/ride-report-9700-mile-tour
Whoa whoa whoa whoa. You did a 10k mile trip? We need pics and stories!.... promptly left on an almost 10K mile trip. ....
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I got the EK and like it just fine! The OEM chain lasted about 11,000 miles, and the sprockets were still good. Put the EK on (I did get the version for 1000-1300cc) and promptly left on an almost 10K mile trip. Never adjusted the chain during the whole trip, and it was only a little loose when I got home (and got it adjusted for the first time). I also installed a Tutoro chain oiler just before leaving on the trip so I'm sure that contributed to the chain performance. I now have over 21,000 miles on the EK and it's still doing well.I am due for a new chain. Any recommendations on brand or tensile strength? I usually see EK, RK or D.I. D. They are usually recomended for 1000cc or 1300cc.
Any thoughts are appreciated. I will be buying a full kit from Sprocket Specialists.
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I just used a sharp knife and the plastic cut quite easily. I put my travel tool kit and a tire patch kit (including the Aerostich mini-compressor http://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-mini-compressor.html) into the space. Don't think I can fit anymore there, but who knows...
dremel is overkill - the plastic is very soft - easier than cutting a PET pop/soda bottleI was thinking the same thing. They put a nice storage bin in place, yet closed off the access to it. The dremel is coming out tomorrow, the new Blue Sea power distribution box will fit perfectly in there.
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Are you trying to say that the edge of the rear tire had an uneven feeling when you place your hand on 2 sections of the tread? For example, one edge seems to be a bit lower/higher than the edge beside it?So it looks like I guessed correctly (had a 50-50 chance :^), and turned the screw in the proper direction to lessen the "Rebound Too Fast" issue (started with just an additional half turn clockwise). I also show the same tire wear pattern that superfist found as a symptom for this problem. I hadn't noticed it previously with my (primarily) solo riding , but it showed up on my last tour after riding >5k miles fully loaded plus passenger on a new rear tire during many very hot (100+) days. On the shoulder of the tire, the leading edge of the tread/sipe pattern wore faster than the trailing edge, leaving a raised "flap" of rubber along the trailing edge. I'm not really sure I understand how this happens.
That's called "cupping" when there are different "heights" or depths when the tread parts are compared with each other along the circumference of the tire.
Normal tire wear for a long ride without many corners and hot pavement.
Adjusting the suspension may help marginally, but I wouldn't get your hopes up that your next tire will wear dramatically differently because the rebound/comp is adjusted.
Running dual compound tires (OE are dual compound, but there are better ones out there IMHO) will help, as will checking your tire pressures religiously.
I've got almost 12k miles on Pilot road 3's, but have the typical straight road commute. I'm good with checking tire pressures and don't overload the bike. And my tires are still cupped as they get closer to the end of their life.
Is what it is....
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I've had cupping on other bikes and tires and this isn't it. Wear is very even and consistent. Every sipe on the shoulder of the tire is affected evenly with the leading edge smoothly worn, and the trailing edge has a thin narrow flap formed on it. Check out "Rebound too Fast" in this link: https://www.bikeminds.com/thethrottlestop/motorcycle-tire-wear-patterns-explained The tire is still feeling good and should be good for several thousand more miles.
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So it looks like I guessed correctly (had a 50-50 chance :^), and turned the screw in the proper direction to lessen the "Rebound Too Fast" issue (started with just an additional half turn clockwise). I also show the same tire wear pattern that superfist found as a symptom for this problem. I hadn't noticed it previously with my (primarily) solo riding , but it showed up on my last tour after riding >5k miles fully loaded plus passenger on a new rear tire during many very hot (100+) days. On the shoulder of the tire, the leading edge of the tread/sipe pattern wore faster than the trailing edge, leaving a raised "flap" of rubber along the trailing edge. I'm not really sure I understand how this happens.
I changed the phrasing a little bit, otherwise I entirely agree.Less damping (counter-clockwise) = "Rebound faster"
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So on a very simple & practical note, to adjust the rebound and solve the "Rebound too fast" problem, do I turn the adjustment screw clockwise or counter-clockwise?
That's a great article. Dave Moss is a knowledgeable resource and over all a great guy.I've been thinking about suspension setup recently and wanted to make a couple minor adjustments to my shock. I found this article about tire wear patterns and how they read. My stock tire was an exact match for "Rebound too Fast" after 5500 miles on the edge tread grooves. The center tread was gone, so it's not like I didn't get the full life of the tire.
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I suppose my questions is: How does rebound and preload interact and do they affect each other?
Rebound damping allows the shock to rebound at a fixed speed regardless of pre-load.
The first thing to do while fiddling with suspension is set your sag. This is suspension jargon for adjust the preload, front and rear, for you. This requires two people. This video by Dave Moss goes through the process.
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As promised here's a picture of the XL Nelson-Rigg UV-2000 Half Cover on my FJ
Cover stuffed into included pouch (Fanny pack style)
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Just bought the Nelson-Rigg UV-2000 Half Cover for traveling. My FJ has the Madstad 22" windshield, 2" mirror extenders, FJR saddlebags, and a topbox (I own both the Givi 52L and the Givi 33L).
XL size is what works for this configuration. Fits perfectly! Large would have been too small. Just thought I'd pass that along. I'll post a pic later in the week. Cover material is lightweight, waterproof, and seems tough enough so I think it's going to work out just fine.
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So you're immune to radar? :^)
"Stealth grey" you say... (rofl)"Good call Bobdog, I took the Luray-Warrenton roads this weekend too, except I was in the car, not the bike, and thought the same thing, great roads!
Saw a bunch of bikes, especially ADV and Sport Touring, no FJ's though I would have obviously noticed!"
THAT'S BECAUSE MINE'S THE FASTER STEALTH GREY...
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+1 on the review! I'm in the middle of a 6K+ trip and bought a new Neotec just before leaving. Love the helmet! Schubert didn't fit me (I'm between large and x-large). A+ on comfort, convenience, and versatility.Time for a review of the Shoei Neotec. I've put more than 7,000 miles on it and I am very impressed. It's better than my Schuberth S2 in every way. Particular strengths:
- Superb ventilation. Air flow is very noticeable across top of head when sweaty
- Comfort. Firmly supportive and cushy at the same time, The ear cut outs are positioned just right, my ears always slide right in, I imagine it would easily accept Bluetooth speakers.
- Smooth, quiet flip,up action. This is my first modular helmet and it is the way to go especially for touring. Really useful at gas and bathroom stops.
- Best sun visor I have used. Excellent clarity, smooth operation, dark without effecting vision.
- Hi viz option
- Weight feels the same as full face helmet, even over multi-hour rides
- Liner removal is easy enough; ditto the visor
- D ring buckle (I didn't like the Schuberth ratchet style)
- Pinlock insert is included. After using this you'll never do without
If it's in your price range give it a look. At a 54 cm head I straddled the small and x-small size. I went with the x-small and it has broken in nicely. A few hot spots early on but no more.
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I just had my CCT replaced! I'd called my dealer, confirmed that my VIN was included, and asked to have the work done. At first the answer was "bring it in and we'll listen for the noise". I told them it was intermittent (which it was when I first called them), and that I was planning a long trip soon. They then said "no problem, we'll change it out". They ordered the part, I brought the bike in and it's done.
One additional note - I spoke with the mechanic, and he mentioned that as part of the TSB he had also replaced the right side rear head bolt. He wasn't sure why it was required but the new bolt came with the new CCT parts (I needed the Type 1 kit). So now I have one silver looking head bolt.
I hadn't heard anyone else mention the bolt replacement so thought I would pass this on.
My CCT noise, which had increased to the point that I stopped riding the bike until I could have it replaced, is gone. Everything seems to be working well. It was only about one week between my phone call and the actual CCT replacement.
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I have the KTM handguards and did use the original FJ bar ends. No muss no fuss. The KTM handguards do come with their own bar ends but I found it much simpler to use the FJ bar ends. The inner bar mount attaches near the bend in the handlebar about a half inch or so away from the reservoir. I have not experienced any issues and, for me, the KTMs also provide increased wind protection for my hands. I also have the Madstad 22" windshield and have experienced no issues with the KTMs interfering with it.At the risk of over-clarification I'd just like to get clear whether the KTM guards can be fitted with the original bar end weight in the standard position, i.e. between the hand guard and the grip? Looking at the various pictures in this thread it looks like that would cause the inner bar mount to get too close to the brake fluid reservoir?
CS
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"An induction or inductive loop is an electromagnetic communication or detection system which uses a moving magnet to induce an electric current in a nearby wire. Induction loops are used for transmission and reception of communication signals, or for detection of metal objects in metal detectors or vehicle presence indicators."
Nope. Those traffic light triggers are not magnetic and magnets do nothing to trip them. They are inductive loops, like large metal detectors. The magnet doesn't change how much of the loop is effected in any way because the loop detects conductive material, not magnetic material. In other words, you'd have better luck tripping the light with a big hunk of copper attached to the bottom of your bike than a magnet.Another use for a really strong magnet on the underside of your bike, is to help with you being recognized by the magnetically tripped traffic light detectors (the ones that look like a "Q" was cut into the road). Not fun to miss traffic light changes because the detector didn't detect you. Strong Neodymium magnets have been recommended for this. Looking to give it a try.
The way to trip a traffic light is to stop right over top the rubber seal in the cutout on the pavement. The wire for the loop is under there. Stopping in the center of the cutout will mean your bike will not be detected by the loop.
It is a magnetic field triggered system. The vehicles metal moving through the field triggers the detection. Car works fine, motorcycle not so much. A strong magnet can help you interact more strongly with the detector field. Another recommendation I found is installing a narrow copper hoop within the rim of the front wheel. It also helps induce a change in current triggering the detector. Might try that after seeing what a strong magnet does. Won't affect other types of traffic light detectors, but there are many of the magnetic ones around sooo...
If it doesn't help, I haven't lost more than the cost of the magnet (and besides it will trap all of those metal shavings
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Another use for a really strong magnet on the underside of your bike, is to help with you being recognized by the magnetically tripped traffic light detectors (the ones that look like a "Q" was cut into the road). Not fun to miss traffic light changes because the detector didn't detect you. Strong Neodymium magnets have been recommended for this. Looking to give it a try.Here you go. Chrome plated even.
http://www.qcsupply.com/140820-heavy-duty-cow-magnet.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=QC%20Supply%20Products(BSC)&utm_term=1100310941975&utm_content=Products%20Ad%20Group
I should re-brand these as "Don't have a cow man!" automotive filter magnets to save your engine.
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I think you'll agree that we're not talking about the same kind of "limited" here. :^) After my ECU flash my bike immediately increased its top speed limitation to match the European standard "limited" top speed. Do I frequently run it at 120+mph? Nope, but it's been there without any wobble issues. Like you I'll usually run at triple digits only when conditions are just right. Normal highway cruising in my area is usually in the 80mph area. Again, no wobble issues with or without FJR saddlebags and/or Givi topbox, nor with either the stock windshield or my current 22" Madstad. I have stock suspension (usually 5th position in rear, one line showing in front). I weigh about 210 lbs plus gear.Bzzt. The speed of the bike is limited in the UK and other European countries. There is a finite speed limit due to gearing and engine revs
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I'm 6'2" (so you're a bit taller than me) and went with the 22" Madstad. Working very well for me! Much smoother airflow. I still get some airflow to the body (no pressure) which I really appreciate in warmer temperatures (live in SoCal) while still feeling protected. You would probably need the 24" version as the 22" is just tall enough for me. Good Luck!
I'm 6'6 and I'm going with madstadVery interesting thread a lot of information, not a lot of tall people who have really found a solution to the terrible stock windscreen. I tried lowering it and raising the seat to the highest position, to get the wind more on my chest. Worked terribly. So after reading all the posts ive narrowed it down to these options:
1) CalSci Large
2) Parabellum Tall
Anyone around the height of 6'4" who can comment or say that either one of these screens worked best. Thank you!!!
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Sounds like they didn't even wait for the bike to cool down!Took the FJ in for the first service, install of the factory side bags and a bath. Wish I could download the picture, but yesterday after only 3 hours of being parked outside of work I had 2 robins building a phucking nest over the key hole just below the dash, dirt, mud and phucking sticks all over the dam thing. I swear if I worked outside of the city limits I would have pulled my piece and smoked me a couple little birdies.
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The FJR bags on the FJ are 1" narrower than on the FJR. I have both and measured last year. The width is less than 36", more like 31" AIR. FJ handlebars are 38" wide with handguards. You may want to remove them. You also may want to get some vinyl protectors to put on them as you my miss judge the center of that opening. I don't think you can find the unpainted sidecases anymore, and that is too bad as they would be excellent on the FJ.I've looked at all the pictures and read as much as I can about the FJR side bags....but I can't determine if the FJR unpainted side cases stick out further (are wider) than the handlebars? I have a 36" gate I pass thru to park, and if the FJR bags are wider, then I wouldn't fit without having to take off the cases every time.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I'm referring to Yamaha PNs:
5PS-W0753-0L-00
5PS-W0753-0R-00
I have the stock handlebars and the FJR bags (I got lucky and must have bought one of the last unpainted sets available as they were being discontinued). The width of the handlebars, and that of the bags are identical at just under 38". So, if your gate is truly 36" wide, you should be able to angle the handlebars through but the bags are a different story.
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You seem to be looking at the mount only. The perpendicular bolt is used to attach the puck to the mount.
Actually I was looking at the perpendicular (not the black) bolt. So I gather the perpendicular bolt does not protrude beyond the slider puck itself (as the picture suggests). That certainly makes more sense.
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I looked at the link you provided and have a question. From the pictures (FZ-09 Frame Slider) I see a counter-sunk bolt going through the slider. One picture shows it going all the way through the slider and protruding out the other side (even though it's not even screwed all of the way in). In the pictures of it installed on the bike, they never show the side where the bolt would protrude on the other side.>> What I figured out is that the most comfortable spot for a set of pegs for me (32" seam) would be about 4-6" directly below the front engine mount. <<
I recently installed a set of Woodcraft sliders on the front (lower) engine mount and they provide a good place to rest my legs on those longer rides. A nice way to kill two birds with one stone, eh?
So does it really do that? What's the purpose of that bolt?
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I'm reading alot about the affect of the Givi screen re the helmet (less buffeting etc), but I'm not hearing anything about wind protection for the rider's body. Can anyone comment about how the Givi compares to the stock screen in this regard? Thanks!
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Looking seriously at this windscreen. Given its extra width, do you notice a significant reduction in how much wind is reaching your chest and shoulders relative to the stock windshield? I'm looking for something that works better than the stock windshield in cooler weather without being huge. I don't mind wind smoothly hitting my helmet. I would like a bit less hitting the body. I'm 6'2", 34" inseam.
No, the air hits my helmet about eye level. As you can see from that one picture, the Givi is about the same height at stock. I wasn't looking for a "still bubble", just less turbulence and noise. Much of that has to do with your height and helmet.Looks great. Clint I see from a previous post you are 6ft? Does the wind go over your helmet so you are in a 'still bubble' or is just nice air flow? And merry Christmas from the UK!
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I'm confident they fit both. I don't believe they've taken the time to re-label the webpage yet. If you look at the Shogun and the Graves slider websites they have re-labeled as fitting both. They use the same mounting points.Looking at OES site and they list sliders for the FZ but not the FJ
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/graves-frame-sliders-yamaha-fz-09-fj-09
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shogun-frame-sliders-yamaha-fz-09-fj-09
What I'm not positive about (though I believe it's most likely true) is whether the OES fork sliders and swingarm sliders fit the same on the FJ as the FZ-09. Can anyone confirm this?
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When I called my service dept. to verify the torque requirements, the tech I talked to basically said to just snug it down hand tight (and not by using the full length leverage of the wrench). I grip close to the socket and just make sure it's snugged well without trying to muscle it. I do the same for the drain bolt. The tech also mentioned that the drain bolt crush washer is good for 2-3 uses max before it must be replaced. I'll replace it every other oil change to be safe.
Snug, or you will never get it off again. Official torque is 12 lb ft (17Nm), and good luck with that.Oil filter?
Project: Alaska Blaster
in FJ-09 Build Projects
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Check out the "NEP CC-2 Cruise Control/Throttle Lock ("Fits: many OLD Yamaha w/ 7/8" handlebars"). I've been using it on my FJ for the past 2+ years. It's meant for a single throttle cable (different setup than what we have) but fits very easily with just the use of a small zip-tie (or in my case a narrow strip of velcro cable tie) to keep it in position. Nice and thin so it doesn't have any trouble fitting in the gap between the throttle grip and the mounting clamp.