deersSlayer

I have about 10k on my bike and noticed after my last oil service. I need to check my oil level. I had the same noise on a crf and the oil level was just to low.

I tried using the Pitbull stand that i have used on my last 4 bikes. One of my old pins worked in diameter size, but was hitting the horn. I need to get the right pin that has the correct offset, if that makes sense.

I look forward to hear what you think after you mount the super tenere pegs.  they look like a great solution

The SuperTen pegs are the best solution for me. Vibration reduction, traction when I stand up to stretch and look great. Very happy with this farkle. 

Some guys don't want to mark up their new white kicks (tennis shoes)

There are also the flip-flop wearers, although that demographic tends toward pure sportbikes.

Another data point: I ordered my heated grips at Power Yamaha in Sublimity, OR in May. I just received them two weeks ago and installed them this weekend.

Went to the dealer today to grab an oil filter and to inquire about the availability of heated grips. To my surprise, he had one set in stock! Otherwise, he said it was a 2 month backorder....

At *least* 2 months. I'm more than three and a half months into my wait for the things to show up. It was a joke that I might not have them by fall when the first two backorder dates passed without any grips. Now it's not a joke anymore, it's ridiculous. 
I don't know how much longer I'm willing to wait....

What did I do today with my FJ-09? Well.... I hit a deer at speeds of 40 to 45mph and stayed on the bike! She weighted about 65 to 70 pounds. Broke the front fender and the innermost faring on both sides as well as the nose faring under the lights. All in all I'm lucky. Its my 3rd deer and only time I've stayed on the bike by hitting one. So as the forms says "what did you do to your FJ-09 today?"

Elka stage 2 : $599 Elka stage 4 : $799
Elka stage 5 : $999
[ul type=disc][*]http://www.elkasuspension.com/fz092015/[/ul]

These 222's really grip and I can't kill the rear yet at 4500 miles.

[span] On a 14,710km circumnavigation of Oz some time ago I managed quite adequately with a 40L case strapped onto the rear seat pan (two-piece seat on the GS).   More recently, a three-week 5,700km interstate trip including eight days around Tasmania was more than comfortably dealt with by a 32L top-box.[/span]
 
Often, less is more!   But - clearly - YMMV!

To anyone who has removed the handguards as part of the windscreen thing...did you install bar-end weights or anything else in their place?

FWIW, with the Yamaha hard bags on the bike it wobbles a hell of a lot easier than it did without them, when riding at 70+mph; just give the bars a little push and it'll wobble away for a bit.  The difference versus no luggage was quite obvious.  It's not hard to control, but a bit disconcerting. 
I'm more or less of the opinion that the extra weight on the rear changed the geometry just enough to cause this.  It certainly pushed the rear out of the "this feels reasonably good" range into the "this feels a bit overloaded" state.  I've not yet bothered to add some rear preload to compensate, on account of I'm both busy and lazy :-)

Basstodave, 
Just look at my post a bit earlier on this thread with some photos. I look over the shield. On Madstad website it tells you how to pick screen size. I think about 7 posts up.
I also have more photos of it on my " farkling the FJ 09 by rszk thread in accessories reviews.
 
 
I got the light grey tint. For me this is great system.
 
Cheers

Don't underestimate the twisties on the Cabot Trail. Some of those decreasing radius downhill turns will make you really pinch the seat if you don't expect them.

Be careful when installing the Cal Science windscreen. You can definitely over tighten it even with those aluminum bushings. ......... ...... Just don't think you don't have to be careful installing it. Definitely be easy on how hard you tighten the screws though, it will stay on.

I'm getting ready to install a Battery Tender connection cable off my battery. Being the first fuel injected (ECU), ABS (control module), traction control gadgeted bike I've ever had I was wondering if there is a fuse which should be pulled prior to disconnecting the battery in order to protect the ECU and perhaps ABS module from a voltage serge? I understand in cars the ECU only draws so much battery current and a serge can create a problem. Being 12v also on the FJ, I figured I should ask prior to making a HUGE mistake. I've always done negative side disconnect and reconnect first. I would hate to do a simple task and fry my ECU or other electronics. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

5,000 and I removed the D222 to do a 2400 mile ride as I was just at the wear bars.  The front D222 is up to 10,500 miles and is just nearing the wear bars. Maybe another 1500 miles on it but going to replace now.

1640 miles to clean off the rear and that's fairly typical for a performance tire on the twisties where I live in western North Carolina.  The front is still OK at 2500.

2650 miles and had to replace..... I think its all about how you ride. Mine hits hard twisties every sunday.

7700km is under 4800 miles. As long as most of those miles are not on motorway/freeway/autobahn then I think you will be okay. Are you travelling in areas where there aren't tyre shops? It's not uncommon for UK riders to arrange a tyre change, or even a service (as @johan did) part way around a similarly large loop - either ship a tyre to a known address or just buy locally.