thetruck454

Techically in order to pass you must have tread good till the next years inspection.

I always chuckle when I hear that... what, do I need to show up with a brand new spare rear tire bungee-corded on the rack?

I've never really worried about getting my bike inspected. It's only an issue if you get pulled over AND the cop knows to look for it.

My stock lasted 6500 miles before the wear bars were flush with the tread. If I wasn't due for inspection I would have ran them a little longer, but it wouldn't have gained me much. I ended up buying a set of the Michelin Road 5 tires. I'm hoping them serve me well.

I'll new to the on road world, hard core off road since early 70's, could someone please explain/photo what I need to look for as far as wear bars, as in flush to the tread, I'm at 6K miles even and thinking/hoping it's good for another 1000 miles 
Is it the little tab I have circled? 
 
 
 

 
 
The Givi 2122s
 
Ordered it from Motostorm - delivered from Italy in about one week. The screen is great so far. It did require adjustment of the mirrors to avoid touching at full lock.
 
The other concern is the warning sticker that came on the screen: "do not exceed 80mph and do not leave parked in the sun." Apparently this screen may melt your dash.
 
I've had zero problems with it over the past 1k miles. Highly recommend this screen.

@thetruck454 - Nice. Which adjusters are those?

 
Blue! Can pick her up next thursday 1 of june.
Can't wait..................
 

Hey guys, electronics engineer here.. Trust me, this is a VERY BAD idea to tap into the OEM headlight electrical circuit on the FJ09, especially for a novice... 
The LED headlights (both High and Low) are driven by a DC-DC converter below the headlight assembly. The positive (+) power for that converter is connected to a switched 12V and the negative (-) is tied to the ground. Where it gets complicated is how it is controlled... you probably realized that the headlights won't turn on unless you start the motor. That happens because it't the ECU that sends this signal to the LED controller.
 
Once the motor starts, the ECU output a tiny negative (-) control signal to one of its output. (That is not a strong relay output, it's a sensitive "open collector" transistor output). That signal is split between the Low beam input of the DC-DC converter and the High beam handlebar switch. The output of that switch then goes to the High beam input of the DC-DC converter.
 
There is no easy way to just "tap" into that system and control something else. Also, it is not safe for the ECU to install a relay on the negative (-) control High and Low signal. 1- We don't know how strong is the open collector ECU output for that (even for a relay coil) and 2- When power is removed from a relay coil, there's a phenomena called "extra current" that back-feeds a very large amount of voltage (for a very short duration) back to its source, in this case the ECU.
 
What happens when a tiny output collector sees a high voltage glitch like this ? That transistor inside the ECU blows off and that output dies (Don't ask me how I know...). I already did that on many many other bikes and it always worked, but the FJ ECU just didn't liked it that time.. The only way to protect against this would be to put a reverse diode (freewheeling / flyback) on the relay coil to "eat" that extra current before it reaches the ECU, which I wasn't smart enough to do in the first place.. But again, even with that protection, the ECU output may not be strong enough to drive a 30A inductive relay coil, so I would discard that option and leave the OEM wiring alone.
 
Long story short, if you want to add accessories to your bike, install separate wires / fuses / relays / switches directly to the battery.... If you want switched power, then add a relay on a switched AUX connector to switch your accessories. These AUX switched outputs are safe because they are fed directly by the key.
 

I haven't been inside the FJ electronics at all so I'm trying to follow you conceptually. 
1. It sounds like you tried to wire up extra lights on the FJ and damaged the ECU? If so, how exactly did you do it?
 
2. Why do the headlights have their own DC-DC converter? Do they not operate at 12V? Have different current requirements?
 
 

New Hampshire

Me too (New Hampshire)!

You all need to stop getting the recall work done. My part has been on order for about 3 weeks, still waiting!

1pm for mine today.  Also marked up the risers to make sure they replace them, as well as putting marks on the handle bars to make sure they put them back to the correct angle. 
 
 

@THETRUCK454 I am anxiously awaiting pictures of the SH58X on the bike. I have been eyeballing that top case for some time now. 
Also, did it come with the universal mounting plate? And, did you get hit with any additional customs taxes?

Got beaked!  This was an incredibly hard process with only one arm.  I had to use my nose/forehead to hold it in place while I got the four fasteners started... 

Commendable commitment and perseverance. Bike looks good. Hope your arm recovers soon... try not to phuk it up in the meantime.