thetruck454

I always chuckle when I hear that... what, do I need to show up with a brand new spare rear tire bungee-corded on the rack? Pretty much

I agree, however the only reason I don't is when you work on a government installation, they turn you around if your inspection or registration is over due.

I'll new to the on road world, hard core off road since early 70's, could someone please explain/photo what I need to look for as far as wear bars, as in flush to the tread, I'm at 6K miles even and thinking/hoping it's good for another 1000 miles Is it the little tab I have circled? Yup that's the wear bar. My tires were just a hair less tread than that, but not quite to the wear bar and they wouldn't pass inspection. Techically in order to pass you must have tread good till the next years inspection. Each place has a different interpretation of what a year's worth is. I just got someone who wasn't willing to push the definition.

My stock lasted 6500 miles before the wear bars were flush with the tread. If I wasn't due for inspection I would have ran them a little longer, but it wouldn't have gained me much. I ended up buying a set of the Michelin Road 5 tires. I'm hoping them serve me well.

That sucks.....

I use this for my cold weather screen, it's great. My warm weather screen is the Calsci shorty

After months of internet research and several jacket returns, I think I found my next jacket. This thing has vents everywhere and the fit is pretty good. Along with my Dianese mesh jacket, it should cover all my seasons. I just can't decide on a color to go with my bike. Also not sure I'll get the pants as they don't look like they will work for overpants. I can't make up my mind on color, because you need to look good while being safe right?

After more looking I can't seam to find what I want in a waist length jacket,but there are plenty in a 3/4 length jacket. Can anyone give me feedback on how it's like riding on road with a 3/4 jacket on their fj?

Once the axle is tight I don't think it matters. Where it does matter is during tightening and loosening the axle nut. The more clearance there is, the more that flat can rotate and the corner can dig into whatever feature prevents it from rotating. As long as the metal is strong enough it's ok, but over time who knows if it will weaken.

There is still a slightly too much clearance on the lightech too, but the metal the flats bite into is more substantial.

It's by Lightech. It has a very precise scale and the adjusters at the end have detents when you spin them so it's very easy to align the rear tire. It also positively locates the rear axle so you don't have to worry about it moving on you as you tighten the axle nut back up.

One time trying to adjust the chain slack and I was done with that soft aluminum plate. $200 later... life is easier!

I like that blue, wish we got that stateside

Added eBay fender eliminator with ebay LED plate frame. It was only $31 and very well built. I had to slightly enlarge the holes in the tail for it to fit, but not a problem. I didn't like how the narrow LEDs from the fender eliminator didn't light the whole plate so that's why I bought the separate LED plate frame http://m.ebay.com/itm/FJ-09-FJ09-Yamaha-Fender-eliminator-Tail-Tidy-2015-2016-2017-BLACK-NTS-P-L-/271899011302?txnId=1816530605017 http://m.ebay.com/itm/Custom-Horizontal-LED-Light-Motorcycle-License-Plate-Frame-Black-Mount-Holder-/282273092054?txnId=1678981108018 Proton 500 flush mounts...BRIGHT!!!! http://www.hightechspeed.com/products/Proton500/yamaha.html Blaster x tail light with their relay https://www.customled.com/products/2015-2016-2017-yamaha-fj-09-integrated-led-tail-light And one big booty curtousy of the shad sh58x. http://www.twistedthrottle.com/shad-sh58x-expandable-top-case-58-liters-carbon-look?gclid=Cj0KEQjw0v_IBRCEzKHK0KiCrKMBEiQA3--1NkiZOYHZS7suu06amym6xzw4tyWtPAsApDEEH_Hyfw4aAt9E8P8HAQ

I haven't been inside the FJ electronics at all so I'm trying to follow you conceptually. 1. It sounds like you tried to wire up extra lights on the FJ and damaged the ECU? If so, how exactly did you do it? 2. Why do the headlights have their own DC-DC converter? Do they not operate at 12V? Have different current requirements? Mechanical Engineer here so take my electrical advise with a grain of salt, but when I was was probing around with my multi-meter I found the led's run on over 20 volts after the converter. I decided to stay away from taping into the lights after that. I also would suggest adding a separate accessory relay circuit.