papac2000

Initially it was untuned. I now have a flashed ECU, but the mod works just fine with a stock tune.

Modded the stock exhaust on my 2016 FJ-09 this weekend following the directions already provided so far in this excellent thread! Highlights: • Removed and re-installed without removing the center stand—key to this is to un-screw the radiator hoses (two screws, takes 2 mins) as pictured below. This frees up the manifold for easier maneuvering.
• Opened chamber and removed the “s-curve” pipe with a 4” cut-off tool
• Added extra hole from the cat chamber into the rear chamber with a 1 ½” hole saw
• Outlet pipe kept stock, ECU stock
• Got a friend to weld it back up
Very happy with the mod, it’s a much deeper tone and overall a little louder, but not too much to make it obnoxious. Feels like it removes some of the jerkiness a little too in A and STD modes. No pop on decel, but does give a nice rumble that wasn’t there before.
Time: 3-4 hours
Cost: If you have the tools and can weld, $0
 
 
Great job @caferacer! After 9000km I still grin and am glad I did mine.

Installed a PR4 rear tire, ZX10R shock (with OE spring as it suits my weight) and flashed another revision to my ECU tune. (Probably revision 9 or 10)

I took it in for the 600 mi check yesterday and mentioned the vibes. The tech said he has ridden the R6 and other cross-plane bikes and said he has felt the same thing.  Then he rode mine and confirmed it was the same vibe as the other models.  He said he would send a complaint to Yamaha on-line tech support and let know what they say. I also mentioned that at a constant speed, the bikes surges like its misfiring.  I thought maybe a TB sync would help.  The tech rode and felt the same thing, especially at lower speeds in any gear.  He suggested it might be lean fueling to meet EPA requirements but would submit the compliant to the Yamaha on-line tech support.
FYI.  Even though the owners manual says a throttle body sync should be done at 600 mi, the dealer's list of required service (as shown on his service dept computer) does NOT include syncing.

 
The fix to the low speed surging due to EPA laws, is to fool the ECU by changing what the O2 sensor reads v/s the ECU reads. There is a very cool unit from a guy in AU who builds these to allow you to run slightly rich all the time. You get better fuel economy too, since it takes less throttle to maintain the same speed/power. (The engine makes more power.) 14.7:1 is great for the EPA, but the bike makes more power at a richer setting, about 13.2:1 from what I remember.
I have this, and it solved the problem on the FZ09 and now on the FJ09, smooth power while in parking lots and other low speeds, and at a constant 25 to 35mph as well, it no longer surges at all. Guys name is Kevtex. Look him up.

 
The surging and sputtering at low speeds is definitely fueling, no question. It annoyed me all last season. The O2 controller or an open loop ecu flash will cure this issue.

As far as an ecu flash effecting vibrations, I recently bought the Flashtune cable/software and after the first 100km ride I do notice the engine is noticeably smoother. One thing that was interesting is the "ignition offset" tables. In some areas, there were large differences (as much as 6 degrees) in timing between cylinders. I have noticed this in other bike maps before, but not as dramatic. There are a few reasons for having an offset, but the "unlimited" map that is found on the Flashtune server has this feature zeroed out. Perhaps this combined with a slight enrichment in fueling results in everything running more ideally. I did remove the hand guards and add steel bar ends as well. In any case, the bike has never felt this smooth.

Made a few last power pulls on the dyno after remapping with FlashTune. Baseline pull was 110.2hp/63.x tq (I wanted results from the same day as I find that despite the dyno's correction factor, the number can vary on the day). So far I have seen 113.6hp/65tq. To be clear, the main goal was not power increase. I was after smoother idle and cruise fueling, and to that end my bike now idles about 13.8-14.0:1 instead of 14.7-15.1:1 as before and cruising is quite similar. I disable the speed limiter as well, and made modest changes to the ride-by-wire tables. When the nice weather returns, I look forward to refined driveability. Overall, I could have sent out the ECU to get a flash, but I have access to a dyno at no cost, and it's in my nature to tinker (I tuned cars/bikes for 8+ yrs). On a side note, there have been sections of the engine braking and ETV (ride-by-wire) tables that can no longer be edited....I was told by tech support that they were being misused.

Papac, I am now running the Graves full exhaust fuel map and find the bike is very smooth now and has oodles of power. It might be a tad rich though. This winter, that may be something for you to play around with using the flashtune software.

Flashtune on order, hope to have it next week.....

I'm hoping to get Flashtune over the winter. If I do and I learn anything significant, I'll be sure to share. My thoughts lately have been that a reflash for stock exhaust might be the best place to start for those of us with this type of exhaust mod, as fuelling seems pretty spot on. I'm mostly after smoother throttle maps from the flash.
If time or funds get short before spring, I may just get a base reflash and re-run the bike on the dyno. Hafta wait and see.

Yes, I expect weight savings is negligible. I just used a wire feed mig with mild wire. Not proper, I know, but after 6200km it's holding up fine. The shell is very thin and as a result it's tricky to weld up without blowing through. Short stitches is the ticket. I did get the sound I was after with this mod and dyno results showed about 5hp while maintaining 13.0 AFR across the board. If you're after weight savings, this isn't for you. If you're after backfire popping or flames, not for you either (nice and mellow deep tone). If you don't have access to a good or at least decent fabricator/welder, then you might reconsider as it's not for an average tinkerer.
BUT if you get satisfaction from diy mods instead of laying out $ for blingy pipes (can you tell I can't afford/justify the sexy Akra system?), and can arrange for the needed trade skills....then step up and make your FJ sound tough! Glad I cut into mine way back in January, lol.

What was wrong with what we did, Ty? Still lovin' mine, how about you?

1hr SW of Ottawa.

Just picked up a LaZer Monaco carbon modular.Only 100grams heavier than my carbon full face. Will be riding with it this weekend, hoping it's a winner.

The O2 probe is from innovate. The cross section of it might be 1/2" by 3/4".....the part that gets inserted into the pipe anyway. The fact that it sticks into the muffler a piece may screw the flow up too besides it just reducing the outlet size.
As far as fueling, I think the fact that you can order these bikes with dealer installed Akra systems suggests the factory map is a bit over rich at WOT to allow for this. The tip of my exhaust is plenty dark on the inside, she's gettin plenty of fuel.

Well, as Lewis noted in one of his posts, he definitely noted a power increase with stock tip. As do I still, even with stock diameter insert. Front wheel still gets awful light where it didn't stock! Top end? Who knows without a dyno. I'm making my insert removable of course... so I can have it both ways. 
I believe the gains are made mostly with the second hole in the cat chamber. ( along with removing the s pipe, of course ) It's designed to have the output of the cat slammed into the rear chamber wall, then have to go sideways and back to get to the rear chamber. As you noted, your dynoed gains came from what you thought was reduced back pressure from the cat chamber. The second hole is right inline with the cat.
 
Fun stuff!
 
Ty
 

 
I had my bike back on the dyno as I was curious to see the fueling without a remap. Other times I had not bothered, but I just wanted to check so I know where things are. With my modded exhaust the fueling is steady at 12.9-13.0 across the board from 4-11000. I put this in this thread because I noticed something when making a backup run without the probe stuffed in the outlet. It made 3hp less with the "wand" in the outlet than with it out. I think this confirms the bigger outlet is worth hp....but again, that was never the point of all of this in the beginning. Just passing along results.

"Just removing the S pipe and adding second outlet from the Cat chamber is all that is really needed imo."
 
From a sound standpoint and return for effort invested, I will agree with you Ty. BUT...
I think that the stock outlet diameter will cost hp. Not that that was ever the point to this excercise, but still bears consideration. Here's my logic:
The collector of the header is decent in size, as is the cat itself. Where the bottleneck occurs is when it gets choked down to 1 3/8" coming into the rear chamber. Once that is cured, the outlet is the "new" bottleneck. I agree that 2 holes at 1 3/8" through the baffle AND the 2" outlet are overkill, both from a sound and flow standpoint. So...either one 2" pipe through the baffle in place of the smaller original one along with the 2" outlet OR, a small 1" hole beside the original one (like mine) with the 2" outlet would be the ultimate recipe to make best power without being too loud in my opinion. As far as power goes; my prediction, after running hundreds of bikes on the dyno over the years, is the mod with both the extra hole in the baffle AND the 2" outlet will see gains right to the limiter. (Already documented) while the stock outlet version will gain in the midrange and sign off around 9500 as the stock system does. It may make 1 or 2 peak hp gain.
Thoughts?

Here's the link.
 
http://fj-09.org/post/2937

I definitely plan to pack it with some sort of sound absorbent material. What I'm thinking is running a perforated tube all the way through after removing whatever 'guts' I can remove, and then packing around it. I think it might even shed some weight.... I've also considered making it into a reverse flow 'turbo' style. Who knows, it's all a big experiment!! I certainly don't want something ridiculously loud.

There is a youtube vid of a guy who did just that on an MT-09. Not sure where he was from, but it sounded like he was speaking Spanish. I linked to it in another exhaust thread on here. It did actually sound really nice and mellow

Good find. It will be nice to have a spare system to work from. Be prepared...if you remove the cat to make a straight through system, it will need some sort of packing or it will be pretty darn loud. The system Ty made already barks and shouts quite nicely on accel and pops some on decel. From my dyno work, I feel the cat and front pipes do not pose a flow restriction, as the gains from the mods I made are very similar to gains claimed by full systems. By all means, it will be cool to see which way you go, but I feel it will be a lot of extra work for modest or negligible gains. Have fun....after all, that's half the point. 

Excellent work Ty! I am curious if the outlet really poses a flow restriction or not. Would love to dyno these back to back to know for sure. It's fun and satisfying stuff when you get such nice results for so little outlay of cash. My kinda mods! Have fun riding guys.

You absolutely must share your review ULEWZ!

Exhaust number 3 going under the knife courtesy of my friend Ty. The same mod he did, but without the 2 inch pipe being added to the tip. I will post up sound when it gets done.

 
Pretty sure you'll love it. I get compliments on mine.

Installed my XGrip RAM mount. Fits my Samsung Note2 pretty nicely. See how it makes out on the road this weekend.
 

Since that's essentially what a DB killer is, I can't see the harm in doing it that way. It may limit power output since the outlet is the bottleneck. My opinion after the two versions so far is that the happy medium would be a 1in hole in the baffle with the 2in outlet.

I don't find mine loud. I assume the extra noise is proportionate to the size of the hole through the baffle. Mine is perhaps half the size yours is.

Sounds really great. Yours has just a little more popping on decel than mine, perhaps because of the larger opening in the baffle. It is a very rewarding mod for those that have the equipment at hand.
 
Cheers,
Chris