papac2000

Initially it was untuned. I now have a flashed ECU, but the mod works just fine with a stock tune.

Installed a PR4 rear tire, ZX10R shock (with OE spring as it suits my weight) and flashed another revision to my ECU tune. (Probably revision 9 or 10)

The fix to the low speed surging due to EPA laws, is to fool the ECU by changing what the O2 sensor reads v/s the ECU reads. There is a very cool unit from a guy in AU who builds these to allow you to run slightly rich all the time. You get better fuel economy too, since it takes less throttle to maintain the same speed/power. (The engine makes more power.) 14.7:1 is great for the EPA, but the bike makes more power at a richer setting, about 13.2:1 from what I remember. I have this, and it solved the problem on the FZ09 and now on the FJ09, smooth power while in parking lots and other low speeds, and at a constant 25 to 35mph as well, it no longer surges at all. Guys name is Kevtex. Look him up. The surging and sputtering at low speeds is definitely fueling, no question. It annoyed me all last season. The O2 controller or an open loop ecu flash will cure this issue.

As far as an ecu flash effecting vibrations, I recently bought the Flashtune cable/software and after the first 100km ride I do notice the engine is noticeably smoother. One thing that was interesting is the "ignition offset" tables. In some areas, there were large differences (as much as 6 degrees) in timing between cylinders. I have noticed this in other bike maps before, but not as dramatic. There are a few reasons for having an offset, but the "unlimited" map that is found on the Flashtune server has this feature zeroed out. Perhaps this combined with a slight enrichment in fueling results in everything running more ideally. I did remove the hand guards and add steel bar ends as well. In any case, the bike has never felt this smooth.

Made a few last power pulls on the dyno after remapping with FlashTune. Baseline pull was 110.2hp/63.x tq (I wanted results from the same day as I find that despite the dyno's correction factor, the number can vary on the day). So far I have seen 113.6hp/65tq. To be clear, the main goal was not power increase. I was after smoother idle and cruise fueling, and to that end my bike now idles about 13.8-14.0:1 instead of 14.7-15.1:1 as before and cruising is quite similar. I disable the speed limiter as well, and made modest changes to the ride-by-wire tables. When the nice weather returns, I look forward to refined driveability. Overall, I could have sent out the ECU to get a flash, but I have access to a dyno at no cost, and it's in my nature to tinker (I tuned cars/bikes for 8+ yrs). On a side note, there have been sections of the engine braking and ETV (ride-by-wire) tables that can no longer be edited....I was told by tech support that they were being misused.

Flashtune on order, hope to have it next week.....

I'm hoping to get Flashtune over the winter. If I do and I learn anything significant, I'll be sure to share. My thoughts lately have been that a reflash for stock exhaust might be the best place to start for those of us with this type of exhaust mod, as fuelling seems pretty spot on. I'm mostly after smoother throttle maps from the flash. If time or funds get short before spring, I may just get a base reflash and re-run the bike on the dyno. Hafta wait and see.

Yes, I expect weight savings is negligible. I just used a wire feed mig with mild wire. Not proper, I know, but after 6200km it's holding up fine. The shell is very thin and as a result it's tricky to weld up without blowing through. Short stitches is the ticket. I did get the sound I was after with this mod and dyno results showed about 5hp while maintaining 13.0 AFR across the board. If you're after weight savings, this isn't for you. If you're after backfire popping or flames, not for you either (nice and mellow deep tone). If you don't have access to a good or at least decent fabricator/welder, then you might reconsider as it's not for an average tinkerer. BUT if you get satisfaction from diy mods instead of laying out $ for blingy pipes (can you tell I can't afford/justify the sexy Akra system?), and can arrange for the needed trade skills....then step up and make your FJ sound tough! Glad I cut into mine way back in January, lol.

What was wrong with what we did, Ty? Still lovin' mine, how about you?

1hr SW of Ottawa.

Just picked up a LaZer Monaco carbon modular.Only 100grams heavier than my carbon full face. Will be riding with it this weekend, hoping it's a winner.

The O2 probe is from innovate. The cross section of it might be 1/2" by 3/4".....the part that gets inserted into the pipe anyway. The fact that it sticks into the muffler a piece may screw the flow up too besides it just reducing the outlet size. As far as fueling, I think the fact that you can order these bikes with dealer installed Akra systems suggests the factory map is a bit over rich at WOT to allow for this. The tip of my exhaust is plenty dark on the inside, she's gettin plenty of fuel.

I had my bike back on the dyno as I was curious to see the fueling without a remap. Other times I had not bothered, but I just wanted to check so I know where things are. With my modded exhaust the fueling is steady at 12.9-13.0 across the board from 4-11000. I put this in this thread because I noticed something when making a backup run without the probe stuffed in the outlet. It made 3hp less with the "wand" in the outlet than with it out. I think this confirms the bigger outlet is worth hp....but again, that was never the point of all of this in the beginning. Just passing along results.

"Just removing the S pipe and adding second outlet from the Cat chamber is all that is really needed imo." From a sound standpoint and return for effort invested, I will agree with you Ty. BUT... I think that the stock outlet diameter will cost hp. Not that that was ever the point to this excercise, but still bears consideration. Here's my logic: The collector of the header is decent in size, as is the cat itself. Where the bottleneck occurs is when it gets choked down to 1 3/8" coming into the rear chamber. Once that is cured, the outlet is the "new" bottleneck. I agree that 2 holes at 1 3/8" through the baffle AND the 2" outlet are overkill, both from a sound and flow standpoint. So...either one 2" pipe through the baffle in place of the smaller original one along with the 2" outlet OR, a small 1" hole beside the original one (like mine) with the 2" outlet would be the ultimate recipe to make best power without being too loud in my opinion. As far as power goes; my prediction, after running hundreds of bikes on the dyno over the years, is the mod with both the extra hole in the baffle AND the 2" outlet will see gains right to the limiter. (Already documented) while the stock outlet version will gain in the midrange and sign off around 9500 as the stock system does. It may make 1 or 2 peak hp gain. Thoughts?