eeetea

I get better Mpg than that, up to 60, with regular plugs. The secret is to fill up in English gallons ( 20 fl oz)

Be aware that Yamaha have got some great things on this budget bike. Be aware that there are ready installed additional power take off points under the front nose fairing.
 
I have my gps plugged in there, freeing up the 12V socket.
 
I did post pictures and commentary, put photobucket no longer allows remote hosting, so everything I've have documented over the years on all sorts of forums has disappeared.
 
If you need it, I'll repost, let me know.
 
This site is great...I need to make a contribution....

Excellent info. thanks for sharing. For those in the UK. Better than, and cheaper than, go to Accu.co.uk  A4 (316) Marine grade Stainless for £1.35 (Mazda is £9.28!!) 
Linky Dinky
 
 

Well it seems I have to order 50.  They do have black A4 Stainless plugs in M14 size...might consider buying 50 and selling them on.   
Anyone interested?

 

I just picked this up at NAPA. It is a replacement part for a Mazda drain plug. Not exactly the same but suppose to work. It is a 10MM x 1.5 pitch with a 45 Tork. Will check it out next time I change oil. It has a rubber "O" Ring gasket, therefore the torque may only be required to be 10-12 lbs. (?)  Will have to check that out. If that is the case and it works, that would put an end to over torqueing the drain plugs and stripping the threads.  $3.62.

Niice !! I'd like to know the part number too !! Hopefully the o'ring can easily be found at Napa too
 
 
And for the torque... same as oem... good and tight and I'll have peace of mind!

Is the Drain plug M10??  I would have thought M14 (looking at pictures).  I don't particularly want to pull mine out until I'm ready to do an oil change and swap plugs 
Can anyone advise the actual size (depth too)?  Thankee Kindly.

Excellent info. thanks for sharing. For those in the UK. Better than, and cheaper than, go to Accu.co.uk  A4 (316) Marine grade Stainless for £1.35 (Mazda is £9.28!!)
 
Linky Dinky
 
 

What are the forum rules on posting a hyperlink to my dropbox account for this? I do not wish to do anything that would compromise this forum . 

I dunno man, that is inhouse yamaha copyrighted material and they could sue you and probably me for posting that.

yes. Quite. But I'll take a look and write a precis

the bikes are shipped from Japan crated and assembled by the dealer. I have the unpacking and assembly instructions at home ( out at work at the moment ). I would suggest that any dealer incapable of sticking a bike together following clear instructions, won't be worthy of your future custom. 
Take it back and tell them till get it sorted.

Would love a copy of those instructions. What are the forum rules on posting a hyperlink to my dropbox account for this? I do not wish to do anything that would compromise this forum . 
 

Time has value.

I wish my employer believed that

Crash, why are your wires behind the handlebar risers? Shouldn't they be in front of them?

What is the correct configuration? Mine came off the showroom floor with the brake side wiring in front of the risers, and the clutch side wiring behind the risers (which makes sense to keep the wiring away from the ignition switch area). I just assumed they were all delivered this way...

the bikes are shipped from Japan crated and assembled by the dealer. I have the unpacking and assembly instructions at home ( out at work at the moment ). I would suggest that any dealer incapable of sticking a bike together following clear instructions, won't be worthy of your future custom.
 
Take it back and tell them till get it sorted.

Inspired by duhs10 orange pinstripes, I dug out some red versions I already had and did the SH36 side cases and the bike. Nice quick job. 

 

 

that looks great. In fact the match to the side panels on the bike is really good. What panniers are they?..
 
Doh. I can see it says SH36 now I look again... long day at work today!

You are missing my point. ABS makes practicing hard braking, right up to the point of locking up the brakes, much easier and safer.   I used ABS to improve my braking skills, if you don't practice at finding the limit, you cannot improve your braking skills.  Locking up rear ABS is easy, NOT locking it up takes a lot more practice.  I consider use of rear brake vital to maximize control and minimizing braking distance.

I guess I worded my last statement incorrectly.  
I'm surprised people use the rear brake at all. I haven't used mine on any of the bikes I've owned.

You should try it, it's not just for slowing you down, applying the rear brake will help settle and stabilise the bike as you go into a corner.
 
Also in rain you want to apply something like 50/50 braking front and rear.
 
Loose surfaces, rear becomes more dominant still, although of course with the abs you can use both to your hearts content

That sir, is a very interesting observation. As it happens I'm off to an advanced motorcycle control ( for road riding) at Cadwell Park race track.
 
I might see if I can start experimenting in that.

I personally feel when the abs is triggered you're only getting maybe 70% braking power. I just don't feel like the technology is better than a human hand, not yet anyway.  But again just my opinion, to each there own.

With all due respect, your opinion on this matter is pretty far from the facts about ABS.  This is about as comprehensive a breakdown as you'll find of ABS functionality on modern motorcycles: <http://www.therideadvice.com/abs-motorcycles-vs-non-abs-motorcycles-need-motorcycle-abs/>
 
I'll admit that the pulsing feel at the rear lever (haven't locked up the front myself yet) is a little... disconcerting... and if you prefer the tactile sensation of fully locking your tires up when you exceed available grip, then go for it, but please be weary of spreading misinformation to other riders here... especially in matters of riding safety.

I would add that I was very anti ABS...back in the day when computers were controlled by wooden cogs. So yes my old KTM with Neanderthal technology used to get regularly switched off - because I could brake quicker.   
 
Frankly the chip speed and the control systems have moved on "slightly" (like a million times faster) and actually, pride dentedly I say, leave the ABS on.

eetea, see the note from cruizin re image hosting

I'll read it eventually.  Rather busy, my Mum passed away a week ago, and funeral arrangements and everything else is keeping me from spending too much time on the forum...but it offers some welcome relief and time away from all the hassle.

2

Yep I liked the City cases too, but A) The price is pure extortion. and B) They aren't available in the UK...perhaps Yamaha realise that no one in the UK is rich enough to afford them. 
 
They are however the same cases (different lids) as the ones I had on my TDM900, and the same as FJR1200 etc. which means you could probably pick a set up off eBay or similar. That said, side loading is a bit rubbish (everything just falls out. Where's the logic in that!) So after having top loading cases for the last few bikes (Hepco and Becker on my KTM). I'm okay with the Givi E21 jobbies - nice and slim for commuting and follow the lines of the bike well...and top loading.

Would it be too much trouble to ask you to post a picture from the rear, similar to the angle fddr has in his photo above? I know you all in the UK take your filtering very seriously, so you've caught my interest by saying they're slim and fit within the lines of the bike.  Now I just have to find them in the US...
 
EDIT: Christ, nevermind. The E21s were replaced with the much uglier and boxier E22 cruiser cases. Le sigh. The struggle continues...

 
Well, I think they're pretty.
 
 

 
that's the best one I have of the rear (Don't tend to take rear view piccys because I then need to disguise number plate to prevent ID theft)
 
 
Well I can't get the photos to work, and they appear to have disappeared from my blog page too.      
 
Tried BB Code, the insert picture function - photos appear in preview mode, then disappear when I save.  I'm going to walk the dog.  humphh.
 
 

I'm At work and out and about at the moment, but there's an 'EeeTeas bike blog' on the forum with photos..or I'll post later when I get a moment.

Yep I liked the City cases too, but A) The price is pure extortion. and B) They aren't available in the UK...perhaps Yamaha realise that no one in the UK is rich enough to afford them.
 
 
They are however the same cases (different lids) as the ones I had on my TDM900, and the same as FJR1200 etc. which means you could probably pick a set up off eBay or similar. That said, side loading is a bit rubbish (everything just falls out. Where's the logic in that!) So after having top loading cases for the last few bikes (Hepco and Becker on my KTM). I'm okay with the Givi E21 jobbies - nice and slim for commuting and follow the lines of the bike well...and top loading.

I concur, javascript:void(0)I was glad to get shot of the Dunlops and Stick the Avon's on.

I can't say I've really noticed fuelling issues since I tweaked the CO levels. Is there a different Yamaha map between USA and UK does anyone know?

Sorry for your loss, long may you remember the good times and those happy moments.

i remember the first time I had a $200 tire that picked up a nail 10 miles in.... sigh, good times  
for years I followed the rule of no plugged tires. Then I got tired of buying new tires. Never had a failure of a plug other than to continue a slow leak.

 
I've ridden on a lot of plugged tires and never one failure.

Me too, but the last one I had was large with a lot of carcass damage, so I plugged, rode the 10 miles home at reduced tyre stresses, and bought a new set.  (The front was already plugged from 3000 miles earlier). 
 
What I wouldn't do is rely on tyre sealant type stuff - and once you spray that in then you will need to replace.  But a proper mushroom plug will ensure the air pressure pushes it home, so there is no chane of failure from deflation, and I would only replace if the carcass is damaged

I agree that does look a nicer shape...but what about the load capacity? Still 10kg? (That's 22lbs in old money), Thus, 10kg / 58l = density of rice husk charcoal...(apparently.  8-) ...

Hmmm, I thought the SH48 had 8kg capacity. Load weight aside (never exceeded it), I found that I ran out of folume on just several occasions (poor planning).... but same could be said about my car.

actually I think you're correct. So something lighter than rice husk charcoal then.

I just went to main dealer and asked for a copy. They uploaded it on a stick and I donated some money to charity.
 
I won't share who that was, as Yam may not like it. But is there any harm in you just asking your dealer?...after all you've just spent over $100 buying a bike from them.

I like the looks of this top case, but doesn't seem to be available to purchase from SHAD's website. 
http://shadusa.com/wp/sh58-cases
 
 
@piotrek I also have the sargent seat... I don't think it looks awkward at all (especially when you are sitting on it). Definite improvement over stock. I have the "grippier" Performance Plus cover on mine.

 
 
I agree that does look a nicer shape...but what about the load capacity? Still 10kg? (That's 22lbs in old money), Thus, 10kg / 58l = density of rice husk charcoal...(apparently.  8-)  )
 
 

Result showed that wood sawdust bulk density was highest (0.36 kg/l) in compare to that of wood sawdust + rice husk (0.29 kg/l) and rice husk charcoal (0.17 kg/l). The bulk density has positively correlated (r = 0.97) with Water Holding Capacity (WHC) and negatively correlated with porosity (r = -0.99). Rooting ability of the shoot cutting in sawdust + rice husk (2/1) was highest (63%) in compare to that in wood sawdust (43%) and positively correlated with porosity (r=0.59). Early root development

I stuck the SH48 on mine for pure practicalities sake.  I've never seen top boxes as items of beauty.
 
The "carbon fibre" trim panel is an exact match for the Tracer panels BTW.