eeetea

Eastern Oregon is my favorite destination for cheese grater roads.  I have so much fun out there that I don't mind the increased wear one bit.

There's a price to be paid for good traction, for sure...just sucks when freeway commute eats the tire down the middle before you get to enjoy the rest of it in the twistys.

I install last week these spark plug CR9EIA-9 stock no. 6289. Start the CP3 engine and overheated pipes red after about one minute. 
Is there somebody who have or know the reason of this problem please.
 
Odometer at 10 600 km after one season.
 
Thanks for your help !

As other have hinted on here, there's nothing on the NGK site that would indicate that plug type has an effect on how hot the engine will run, rather that one has to select the right plug for the right temperature application. They also list some factors that WILL affect the engine run temperature (and thus affect the performance of the plug), and of course timing is one of them. Assuming that the plug itself cannot make the engine run hotter... was the plug swap the only task performed on this bike? No valve/timing work, ECU flash or otherwise? If not, could it be a bad plug and/or bad electrical connection, gaps not set right?

UNDERSTANDING HEAT RANGE 
One of the most misunderstood aspects of spark plugs is its heat range. It is believed by many that the heat range measures spark temperature or intensity. This is incorrect as the heat range is actually a measurement of the plug’s ability to transfer heat away from the tip of the spark plug. One cannot change the temperature of how hot a fuel burns.
 
 
 
A hot spark plug has an insulator design that will be slower to draw heat away from the plug tip (thinner insulator mass), whereas a cold plug has an insulator design that will be faster to draw heat away from the plug tip (thicker insulator mass). For a spark plug to function properly it must have a tip temperature hot enough to invoke self-cleaning, while remaining cool enough to avoid pre-ignition.
 
 
 
For most vehicles, the factory recommended heat range is sufficient; however, on some modified or special-use engines, alternative heat ranges may be necessary. Often hotter heat ranges have been used to attempt to correct an underlying fuel or oil consumption problem; this is merely a cover-up fix and the underlying issues will ultimately have to be addressed.
 
 
 
The image below is a representation of the difference between a hot and cold heat range. NGK spark plugs’ heat range goes from 2 (hottest) to 11 (coldest).

HEAT RANGE SELECTION Let's make this really simple: when you need your engine to run a little cooler, run a colder plug. When you need your engine to run a little hotter, run a hotter spark plug. However, NGK Spark Plugs strongly cautions people that going to a hotter spark plug can sometimes mask a serious symptom of another problem that can lead to engine damage. Be very careful with heat ranges. If you are changing heat ranges, contact NGK Spark Plugs tech support for professional guidance, 877-473-6767 prompt #2.
 
With modified engines (those engines that have increased their compression,) more heat is a by-product of the added power that normally comes with increased compression. In short, select one heat range colder for every 75-100 hp you add, or when you significantly raise compression. Also remember to retard the timing a little and to increase fuel enrichment and octane. These tips are critical when adding forced induction (turbos, superchargers or nitrous kits), and failure to address ALL of these areas will virtually guarantee engine damage.
 
An engine that has poor oil control can sometimes mask the symptom temporarily by running a slightly hotter spark plug. While this is a band-aid approach, it is one of the only examples of when and why one would select a hotter spark plug.

I had those spark plugs installed recently. Probably have gone a 1000 miles on them so far. Nothing different that I have noticed. But its been freezing, and the only thing I can(not!) feel or notice are my frosted fingers.

I install last week these spark plug CR9EIA-9 stock no. 6289. Start the CP3 engine and overheated pipes red after about one minute. 
Is there somebody who have or know the reason of this problem please.
 
Odometer at 10 600 km after one season.
 
Thanks for your help !I

 
My new to me 2015 Red FJ-09 followed me the rest of the way home today. ?

We used to extend dirtbikes throw out arms to do the same thing at the expense of longer travel obviously.. Fwiw that dot should line up with the pointer on the case too when the freeplay is taken up to maximise the leverage effects.

Yes, the dot & arrow should been aligned, but because the Tracer had bad clutch cables, this bike was swapped out with an R1's (higher quality) cable. The R1 cable is significantly longer measured end-to-end and left me with no more adjustment.
R1 cable installed

Clutch adjustment before Bolt's actuator swap
 
 
 
I took this chance to shift the actuator a notch outwards, to gain back a bit of cable adjustment on my clutch lever, that's why the dot aren't aligned. On stock Tracer's clutch cable, it is not necessary.
 
 
 

Shoei X-Spirit, Shoei GT-Air and Arai Tour X4

excellent choice sir.  
I bought an x4 last week to replace my shoei neotec that I bought six months ago to replace my tour-x3, 7 years old. Very pleased with the x4...
 
The shoei I have given to a friend.
 
The x4 is better than the shoei, and an improvement on the x3.

Tongue in cheek English humour I'm afraid

Thing is, I'm of English heritage, and I still didn't get it.  I think the paper bag is mine, eh.

Shoei X-Spirit, Shoei GT-Air and Arai Tour X4

Tongue in cheek English humour I'm afraid

"Never trust a man who, if left alone in a room with a tea-cosy, doesn't put it on his head". [em]W[/em]

Alternatively we could all just learn to ride properly - people seem to have managed for the last 50 years without...well, except the ones that didn't survive, of course.  Natural selection  init.

At some point you could have said the same thing about radial tires, disc brakes, wet clutches, etc.  It's generally called progress.

Yes, this I believe to be true...and why I leave my ABS on.... 
 
But equally many including me, see the dangers when you stop on dirt...that shouldn't be an issue for road riding, but in the UK sometimes it is.

Mind you ABS is becoming so good these days that even on gravel it can far outperform non-ABS. 
I have attended Simon Pavey's Offroad Skills course in Wales on a number of occasions.  The first time was probably about 9 years ago using the relatively new at that time 1200GS.  On the first day they said, "We've disabled the ABS and whatever you do, don't try and switch it back on!".  In those days you had much more control modulating the brakes yourself.
 
Last time I did the course was about 2 years ago with the latest 1200GS with its various riding modes including Enduro mode.  This time they said on the first day "We've put the bikes in Enduro mode with the ABS [b style=text-decoration:underline]ON[/b], and whatever you do, don't try and switch it off!".  I must say it was amazing.  Riding down steep, gravelly inclines with slippery roots in your path and the front brake on and the bike just rolled down the hill in a controlled safe manner.  I was suitably impressed.
 
CS

60 - 0 mph, very few riders can stop a motorcycle faster without, than with ABS. Even given perfect tarmac and a few practice runs, you will typically not outperform ABS. Complicate matters with unknown tarmac, variable coefficient of friction and adrenaline running through your veins....ABS is your friend. And the best part??? It's only there if you need it! If you're a braking GOD and somehow don't lock up the front or rear during an emergency, ABS is perfectly happy leaving you in control!

...I hate abs, I think it's dangerous, and degrading to motorcyclists as a whole lol.

I understand wanting to have a bike in its pure form without having as many of the electronics.. but how does ABS make a bike dangerous?