nsmiller

CCT= cam chain tensioner

APE is a brand of manual CCT that some choose to use instead of the factory automatic CCT.

I'm not sure its been down on both sides. I think some of what is in the pictures may just be shadows. And I don't see a bunch of damage on the bar ends, etc. But if it does have some scuffs that's just a tool to use to negotiate the price.

The speed limiter is only a problem if you want to go faster than 114 mph. If you want to do that, flash the ECU. Our 2015 Tracer has never, ever had a wobble, so I'd say that its not a big deal from my perspective. If you do experience wobble, make sure your tires are in good condition, your tire pressure is correct, and your stem bearings are properly torqued. Also make sure the suspension is properly setup for your weight. If you do those things I doubt you'll ever have a wobble problem.

 

Check the condition of the clutch cable. They 2015's and '16s are known to fray and break. Yamaha has an updated part number which mostly solves the issue.

Also, at 17K miles, I would be planning on doing a valve check soon. Yamaha says its not needed until 26K, but many have found that the exhaust valves are tight well before the first scheduled check (including myself). Otherwise, it should be a great machine.

Also make sure you leave home with a good (newish) chain. The OEM chain is only good for about 10K. 

Bring a flat repair kit and know how to use it. Practice patching an old tire at home.

Last year we did Kansas City to Alaska (around the state) and back. The FJ-09 left with a fresh set of PR4's and made it home on a single set of tires. Bike was heavily loaded for all 8,700 miles. Didn't do the Dalton. Assuming no punctures on the Dalton, I would anticipate you could do your trip on a single set of tires. If you do change them, do it in Fairbanks AFTER getting back from Prudhoe Bay.

 

Also remember that just because a tire is squared off, doesn't mean its ready to be changed. Highway miles are going to square a tire. It's still safe to ride on.

Sensor is starting to go bad.
 

Sorry for delay I was on the freeway doing 90. Heard a re as really loud bearing failure in the top left side of the head. Dealer says it's from the cam chain tensioner melting. I was able to get to the shoulder as soon as I pulled in the clutch it seized. I actually coasted like a a quarter mile to the next gas station. Dealer wants 1400 labor + parts... I'm thinking it's time to upgrade to the tracer 900gt:)

Still need some details.... what year bike, and how many miles? How long have you owned it? 
Did it have the cam chain recall performed?
 
For the right price, I might be interested in buying your FJ in 'as is' condition. I could do an engine swap pretty easily in my garage this winter. My biggest challenge would be getting it from CA to MO.

My f@#&ing engine just seized. Well so much for yamaha reliability...

Okay, we need more details. 
First, are you okay? Were you riding when it happened?
 
Secondly, what year bike, how many miles, bought new or used?

So the RPM's hang if you pull in the clutch, but go down if you shift into neutral?
 

I'll chime in and say I've never observed this happening on our bike in 19,000 miles.

Throttle body sync has been completed. I have not been able to ride a lot since resetting codes and syncing, but I have been out a little. No issues thus far. I will continue to monitor and update.  
Thank you again to everyone that replied. Hopefully, this will correct the issue.

How far out of sync were the throttle bodies?

Definitely do not use thread locker.
 
Proper torque on the union bolt is 70 N*m or 51 ft*lbs.
 
You are supposed to lubricate the threads on the side which goes into the engine with engine oil prior to installation per the service manual. The longer side goes into the engine. Shorter side goes into the filter.

Get a union bolt from Norm Kern on the FJR forum or facebook groups. I can help you get in touch with him. He will machine off a few thousandths of an inch so off your union bolt so that you can safely run a wide range of aftermarket filters.

I would suggest to you both to see if a TBS fixes your problems, and I would definitely recommend not waiting until the valve job. Yamaha says it should be done every 4K miles. While that is probably a bit excessive, I check by throttle body sync at least every 6-8 K. It only takes 45 minutes while drinking a cold one in your garage. Lots of DIY videos out there on the subject.
 
I had one cylinder considerably out of sync after the break in 600 miles, so if you have never done one that could maybe be causing some sort of misfire on occasion.

For both of you that claim to be experiencing this issue and for the purposes of data collection:
 
Have you checked the gap on your spark plugs?
 
How many miles on the bike?
 
Have you ever done a Throttle Body Sync? How long ago?
 
When did the issue first occur?

Mine has a "slight hesitation" in that range (74% of the time) since new...been told its normal but im going to have it checked out when I bring in for the clutch cable update and valve job. Wish I could be of more help. I will mention the gathered thoughts of what it may be from this here forum when I drop it off.

Has yours been flashed by 2WDW? 

My prime suspect is a bad throttle position sensor. They are known for developing "dead spots" when they go bad.

Proof you can remove both wheels at once if you want to and are reasonably careful.
 
[video src=https://youtu.be/BRZBcZ5ghfc]
 

When I worked many moons ago at Convair, we took advantage of the equipment, tools and material throughout the plants for "government jobs". If anyone asked us what we were working on, the standard response given the highly sensitive and security work we did was "Do you have a need to know". The trick was getting out of the plant when we were done.

I'm in a similar line of work... but I've seen too many people get fired at my plant for doing that kind of stuff. Not worth the risk in today's day and age.

So, are you going to offer a solid plastic socket to forum folks for sale? ...

It was @nsmiller who suggested a possibility of a 3D printed tool. His first prototype didn't hold up, and it doesn't look like he pursued further.

My first print was with 10% fill PLA plastic from a makerbot I had access to during grad school. I got too buys with classes to try to print a 100% fill PLA version, but I don't think it would hold up well enough for me to feel right about selling it for $ to anyone.  
If someone had a better type of 3D printer, there are definitely plastics out there that would be strong enough. Glass filled nylon perhaps? I have access to 3D printers like that at work.... but for work purposes only. 
 
If anyone wants to experiment further I'll send them the Solidworks file for free.

Can you post a pic (preferably at night or sun set) of what the front signals look like with the running lights operating? And maybe another picture of what it looks like with a signal flashing illuminated? Thanks for sharing.

is that on the side stand or the center stand?  Should measure it when its on the side stand. 
 

If you measured your oil level with the bike on the side stand it would be severely over-filled with oil. 
Oil level should be measured with the bike on the CENTER STAND.

Rather than tapping into the OEM harness for things like accessory lights and whatnot, I always prefer using something like a fuzeblock to distribute power where it needs to go. It can live under your seat next to the battery.

Yup, based on that pic it needs just a bit more oil. Not a lot, maybe 200 or 300 mL.
 
I'm a firm believer that if you want something done right, you should do it yourself. Adding a bit of oil is very simple, just go slow and give the oil level time to register in the sight glass. If you want to be by the book, use Yamalube 10W-40.
 
If you need additional help, see my how-to video on YouTube.

I had the same oil light after oil change at 11700km. The dealer said that he wants to clean oil valve or watever it is called. It may has some dirt. Shall i trust him?

Nothing needs cleaned. Just need to add a tiny bit more oil to bring the oil level up to the max mark. As was already said, its an oil level sensor not an oil pressure sensor. It can come on even when the oil level is okay before the oil level reaches full operating temp.