bruceintucson

 

> between 220-250 cc's of the 5 wt fork oil ... Replace with the exact amount you removed with 2.5 wt oil. The left leg does absolutely nothing so unless you're changing out the spring I'd leave it alone and not worry about adding more fluid either. And yes you can fish a hose down the fork and use something like a MightyVac brake bleeder to suck fluid out of the fork and then pour the balance back in.

 

 
 

> between 220-250 cc's of the 5 wt fork oil ... Replace with the exact amount you removed with 2.5 wt oil. The left leg does absolutely nothing so unless you're changing out the spring I'd leave it alone and not worry about adding more fluid either. And yes you can fish a hose down the fork and use something like a MightyVac brake bleeder to suck fluid out of the fork and then pour the balance back in.

 

Good possibility but you'll have to compress the fork so you can get access to the oil (which means the front wheel/fender will have to be removed and it will be a tight fit fir the tubing with the spacer & spring in place; might as well just remove the fork). You'll have all that stock 5wt left over removed from the right fork leg so you can use it, though at only 15 cc's per leg don't think it really matters. Really makes a noticeable difference on ride compliance and brake dive.

Bruce, do you think it would be possible to extract the 5wt fork oil out of the right leg using a syringe with plastic tubing extending down into the fork leg? At 175lb, this might be an inexpensive solution for me. 
Also, is the additional 15cc of oil added to both forks 2.5wt?

 

I changed the rear shock ( Penske 8983) I had built for me at Traxxion, it works great, the bike feels nice and planted. Now I was wondering about the front end , it does have a stiff feel to it. Dare I say cheap feel to it. I would love to hear about some front end mods here ,I'm not sure I want to go the AK20 Route.. Maybe some members here have some options I don't know about ...

Discussed this several times and if you weigh under 180 or so this mod costs about $10. Take the right fork leg off (loosen the top nut first...careful of the ABS sensor & ABS disc on the wheel). Unscrew cap and pour out somewhere between 220-250 cc's of the 5 wt fork oil (a Ratio-rite works perfect for this). Replace with the exact amount you removed with 2.5 wt oil. Snug the cap, slide the right fork back into the triples and snug it with the lower triple pinch bolt. This is a great time to raise the forks to put more weight on the front end. 5-6mm is a good compromise; use a business card with a marking on it so you can get both forks the exact height. Loosen the left top triple pinch bolt & spin the cap out til it's free. Add 15cc of fork oil to each fork leg (you can get a small graduated medicine device used for giving medicine to children for free at Walgreens/CVS, etc.)Tighten each fork cap, tighten the upper & lower pinch bolts (19 ft/lb upper, 17 ft/lb lower), slide fender into place but don't tighten bolts yet, install front wheel & torque axle but not pinch bolt, install brake calipers & torque to spec; install ABS sensor & cover. Put weight back on front wheel & bounce the front end up & down a few times using handlebars but DON'T apply the front brake. Tighten axle pinch bolt 17 ft/lb, tighten fender mounting bolts. Add 1-3 clicks of rebound and go ride. The lighter oil reduces the cheap/overly aggressive compression valving and the 15cc of oil added per for leg greatly reduces dive under braking without affecting overall ride quality. There is plenty of rebound, you don't have to worry. You could probably replace all 450+cc's of 5 wt in the right fork with 2.5 wt and still have plenty of rebound.Check your steering head bearing preload while the front wheel's off the ground. It should fall easily to either side with no drag or binding felt. Most appear to be coming from Yamaha over-tightened which drastically effects handling in a negative way! 

Tucson, az

Tucson as well. You have the red FJ my wife has seen may times at Tucson Racquet Club? BTW, it's her bike, I still ride a Bumblebee 2003 FZ-01.  

Mentioned the VW plug several months ago. They also have one (for the Jetta's IIRC) that takes a standard allen, not a torx.

$600 better be a custom CCT they made on the spot by milling out a chunk of 24kt gold bar stock and assembled on the spot with proper parts and whatnot...

...and that was in royal currency too  x_x .

Yamaha pays the Dealer 1.1 hours to do the swap, and as mentioned parts are under $100. So unless the Dealer gets $450+ an hour.......?

Excellent info, I turned off TC on the way home about 30 miles and it rode great, like new. I then pulled to 2 sensors, the front was clean the back was somewhat dirty. Cleaned them both, rode it again and it seemed to be better but it is still lighting up about 30% of the time on take off. And yes, oddly enough, it does happen on turns, and in 2nd gear. 

Are you getting any error codes on the display or any weird readings or flashing of the TC light? Did you have a flash on the ECU? 

does anyone know what the range is for the VIN's that are impacted?

From first post http://imgur.com/qVzEurJ

Well at [em]least[/em] I now know why my timing access bolt started leaking. :-) They probably didn't put a new one on.  Got a new one (not Yamaha OEM, gasp) and changed it myself. 

Bruceintucson is right duhs10, they have to replace it regardless of whether it's failing or not. That dude is playing you for a fool just like many dealers have been doing to other fj owners. I have to wonder how much of peoples time these dipshets have wasted with this bring it in and will listen to it crap. I think you need to call this guy back and have another talk with him, and don't be so polite this time.

NEGATIVE. They do not have to replace unless its noisy! 
That's why this is a Technical Service Bulletin. It's NOT a recall!
 
Skip

Wrong! The TSB from Yamaha says IF the FJ VIN # is in the # range for replacement, it needs to be replaced, period! I've read the TSB. 

My dealer did not treat it as a "recall" at all. Wants me to bring it up there so they can listen to it and verify before putting in the warranty claim. We will see how this goes. If for some reason they decide the noise my cam chain tensioner makes is normal, I will be ordering an APE unit.

You might TELL the asshat Dealer that if your VIN falls in the window, it's supposed to be replaced, period. No "bring it in so we can listen, we'll look at it if it fails, no I'm too lazy to spend 2 minutes on my computer to log-in to Yamaha's Dealer Website......" And Dealers wonder why no one likes or trusts them. Contact Yamaha N. America, turn your Dealer in. 

Does anyone out there who has received the CCT recall and gotten it repaired give me an idea of how long it took for your dealer to get the parts? I think I'm getting the run-around. I first spoke to my dealer about it about a month ago and his story is that the parts are still back-ordered. Anyone else experience this and if so, how long did you have to wait?

About 10-12 days iirc. End of June order, second week in July install. And no I didn't have to take it in so they could hear it. Input of VIN showed the "recall" for the FJ.

I like the look as well.

Speaking of said black spots, and apologies for shifting subjects; I have found that acetone removes them moderately well, but still leaves some trace of the fouling.  Anyone know what the best solvent to remove those spots might be?

WD-40 & a rag, followed by SemiChrome metal polish. 

I was told this week by a Yamaha dealership mechanic that the Yamaha filter does not have a by-pass, or maybe it was the flow-back valve, in it since the valve is now in the motor. Can someone confirm this? 
I've been a fan of the Bosch 3323 on my FJR and was going to use them on the FJ09 but now wonder about having two valves in the system.

This is something I've never been able to figure out. An OEM oil filter runs less $12.00 on-line. A Bosch 3323 (good filter BTW, but I had one failure on a Bosch on my Van) runs about $8.00 now days. If you chance the oil & filter every 4K miles it comes out to about 1 penny per mile to run the OEM filter! Really? You're quibbling over $20 in 20,000 miles? Don't eat at McDonalds 3 times in the next 3 years and you're money ahead. :-) Geez, why even question it? 

Had mine done today. By time I was home oil puking out the adjuster. Back to dealer next week. /(

Nice! Friggin' Dealers. Pay your mechanics enough so you can get someone who knows a box end wrench from a box cutter! Geez.  

Recall was completed on my bike before I bought it, but I've always had the clutch basket rattle - pull in the clutch it quiets down - let clutch out it rattles.. Never worried me too much as I recall a post about it over a year ago saying it's normal and all's well...

Thibk the FJ's noisy, listen to a 1st Gen FZ-1. Noisy as hell, been that way for the last 34K miles....and works fine. 

I just had my CCT replaced! I'd called my dealer, confirmed that my VIN was included, and asked to have the work done. At first the answer was "bring it in and we'll listen for the noise". I told them it was intermittent (which it was when I first called them), and that I was planning a long trip soon. They then said "no problem, we'll change it out". They ordered the part, I brought the bike in and it's done.  
One additional note - I spoke with the mechanic, and he mentioned that as part of the TSB he had also replaced the right side rear head bolt. He wasn't sure why it was required but the new bolt came with the new CCT parts (I needed the Type 1 kit). So now I have one silver looking head bolt.
 
I hadn't heard anyone else mention the bolt replacement so thought I would pass this on.
 
My CCT noise, which had increased to the point that I stopped riding the bike until I could have it replaced, is gone. Everything seems to be working well. It was only about one week between my phone call and the actual CCT replacement.

My understanding is the bolt is of a different design to allow more oil to the CCT; at least that's what I was told by the SM at the Dealership that swapped out my CCT. 

Got these Amazon pegs for Mary's FJ, she loves them. Just went to Ace Hardware & got stainless Button head bolts & locking nuts to use instead of the supplied pins. Looks good & is very secure.

Ohlin's with hydraulic preload adjuster....[strong]Moto Porn[/strong]! :-)

I got my plug today. It is a Dorman 65407 M14-1.50 for VW Beetle, Golf and Jetta. I think it will fit since it looks to be the same as the VW plug.  
BTW, the M14 crush washers seem to fit the plug as well.

Must be the one, fits a bunch of VW's. And yes Yamaha's OEM drain plug washer seems to be a perfect fit. BTW, I torqued down to 18 ft/lbs., seems fine. 

The other day I raised the fork tubes 5mm in the triples (lowering the front). Did a great job of taming some of the 'flightiness' without reducing the quick steering nature of the bike. I'm hoping this will contribute to better stability at highway speeds, especially when loaded. Worked great with my VStrom many years ago...

Yep, 4-6mm seems to be the magic range on the FJ; could probably go up to 8mm without creating oversteer.....IF you adjust your rear shock preload for luggage/passenger or added weight in the rear. Otherwise you get too much rear sag & you're right back where you were before raising the forks. :-) 

I wonder how they get to that bolt on the head cover. I mean, you can see it through a gap in frame without taking anything off, but it doesn't seem like there's enough room to fit an allen wrench in there. I wonder if they drop the radiator and go in from the front or lift the tank, I guess the first is probably way easier.

Don't know, he showed me the bolt but I didn't ask how he got to it. They didn't drop the radiator, know that for sure. Looks like a pretty straight shot taking off the right lower (turn signal) and right middle plastic & using an extension. 

Called the Dealer, they just came in. Appt. is for Thursday morning. Will let the Forum know how it goes.

Got the new CCT installed. Now all I hear is gear whine from the tranny. Didn't think it was really noisy to begin with, but guess it was. They even washed the bike! :-) 

If you've decided to replace the drain plug on your 2015 with a flush mount plug, there a an alternative (better option) to the Mazda plug. The Mazda plug has the O-ring which will eventually wear out/crack & it does seem to distort the Yamaha crush washer. Plus it takes a T45 Torx to R/R.Get a Volkswagen plug, part # N91086801. M14, 1.5 pitch, and takes an 8mm allen head, and there is no built in rubber washer.Think they're $4-5, but sent Mary to get it while I was having the CCT changed, and the guy gave it to her Gratis. :-)