carey

I'm a fan of Givi bags. Buy them once and only have to get the correct mounting hardware for each bike.

I bought a set of extender brackets from a member here. I don't know the brand, but they were easy to install. Mine look very similar to these;
 
https://goo.gl/images/TJ3PhY
 
 
 
I've used similar brackets on other bikes. The down side to this type of extender is the passengers foot tends to hit me in the back of the calf. On my bike, I usuaully leave them off and only install when my wife goes for a ride, which isn't very often.

I wonder if the vibrations are rattling the cig adaptors apart mainly the cheap ones?

I've had this problem in the past.    When I use Powerlet/BMW style plugs and sockets, the problem was solved. When I first got my FJ, I used some cheap adapter in the OEM socket to power my GPS. For whatever reason, the fuse kept blowing.   Since installing a Powerlet socket in the OEM position, I haven't had a problem.  

@rockinsv - I somehow missed this when you first posted. Thanks so much for sharing your story... it is both inspiring and heartbreaking at the same time. It sounds like you have known a love that very few will ever experience. Cherish and live in the happy memories.

+1 I don't know how I missed this, but I echo what texscottyd said. 

Today, I changed the fuel in my gas tank. The old gas was a few weeks old, so I decided it was time for a change. First, I had to run the old gas out with a few hundred mile ride in the mountains near my home. On the return trip, I switched to A mode to stay in front of the pending rain clouds

I installed a Sargent Touring seat pad and cover. After an hour, I was squirming. I could last longer on the OEM seat. I did like the foam density of the Sargent seat, but the shape did not work for me, so I decided to modify it.
 
First, I want to state my needs are probably different than most. I have arthritis in my hips that limits my range of motion. Most bucket shaped seats don't work for me. What does work for me is a skinny seat, like a dirt bike where my weight is supported in the narrow area under my private parts, and my hips are allowed to "hang" off to the sides. I have no problem riding a bicycle for hours with a thinly padded seat.
 
Here's the Sargent seat I started with
 
 

 
 
I want to make the seat narrower, so I started with this
 
 

 
and a little more trimming
 
 

 
 
This was a big improvement for me, but I found some pieces of memory foam leftover from other projects and decided to do a major overhaul.
 
I added a strip of medium density foam in the center, and a small piece of firmer foam at the tail.
 
 

 
 
I topped it all off with another layer of light density memory foam
 
 

 
 
I used my wife's electric carving knife and my 4" grinder with 80 grit wheel to blend things together. Final product looks like this
 

 
 
 
 

There was a common problem on the original FJ's (FJ1100/1200) where the rubber vent valves in the gas would malfunction. The malfunction would create a vacuum in the gas tank and not allow gas to flow.

One thing the FJ-09 seems to be missing is a helmet lock. I have always had one right near the lock for the seat, so it is easy to secure my helmet if I'm going into a store or getting something to eat.  
If I'm crazy, and someone knows the secret to lock my helmet to the bike, please let me know. And if not, any ideas on how everyone else locks their helmet would be appreciated.

Some people have successfully used this type of lock https://www.ebay.com/p/gun-lock-9-cable-length-trigger-pistol-shotgun-rifle-childsafe-steel/1929948055
 

I had the opposite problem. I adjusted my rear brake pedal and forgot to check the brake light switch. My brake was on all the time.

I recommend the OES sliders over Shogun brand. OES has a metal insert that doesn't compress when you tighten them up. I bought a set of Shogun for my FZ1 and after some time, I started getting vibration. The engine mount/slider mount bolts were loose because the plastic compressed. I could keep them tight so I removed them.

DIY rim stickers for $6   
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So inquiring minds wonder... where does one get these $6 rim stickers?

I went the hi dollar route and got mine for $20 http://www.ebay.com/itm/280724395768?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 

Could you explain?  I put mine in my toolbox, what is the function of the plug?

Its to prevent an object from unintentionally unlatching the seat...

Thanks, I think I'll take my chances, and keep the block in my tool box. 

I read on another Tracer forum that the really annoying, odd-shaped bit of rubber that hides the front seat latch does have a function after all. If, like me, you took it out and threw it in your toolbox, it is surprisingly easy to remove the front seat without needing to unlock the rear, but the rubber stops that.

Could you explain?  I put mine in my toolbox, what is the function of the plug? 

I now have 7,000 miles on my FJ 09 and a lot more practice with ABS. As an old dirt biker, I do miss the ability to lock rear brake and slide / steer with rear wheel. It took some time to de-program that from my riding reflexes and techniques.  
I started with practice on smooth dirt roads at slow speeds and deliberating locking up front and rear ABS independently until I learned how to feel which wheel is in ABS mode by feeling the hand lever or foot brake vibrate. It is still my opinion that ABS activation extends braking distance. The most effective use of ABS brakes to reduce stopping distance, is to release just enough pressure off the lever to stop ABS modulation, then reapply slight pressure as, or if, needed. This is a far more subtle modulation than the pre-ABS days of "pumping" the brakes. As a result of my practice of braking as hard as possible without activating ABS, my stopping distance has decreased so much that I really have to be careful of who or what is behind me in fear they will not be able to stop as quickly as I can. This is not to say I can out brake a pro racer on a pure sport bike. But I do have a lot more confidence in braking with ABS by NOT activating it, than when I first starting riding with it.

xlxr, I think you nailed it.  There are many charts, graphs, and studies that show ABS is better or worse, but they are usually done by professional riders under controlled conditions.   Everyday joes, like us, can maximize their braking by a little practice with their own bike.
Years ago I took the MSF Advanced course, and a lot of our field work was braking under different situations.  Each new bike I own, and every spring at the beginning of riding season, I practice my braking technique.  I'm no Valentino Rossi, but I feel comfortable that I can use my brakes correctly in a panic situation.
 

thanks joeszup and carey for the replies. I went with the OEM because I did not want wider than handlebars and I thought it was the most invisible mounting hardware when bags are off. But I find that I hardly ever take the bags off. What size are they? I just want to compare with carey's comments to decide on size. I assume a helmet does not fit? Not a deal breaker, just curious. 
Good comment on mounting hardware though. I thought I had to get from the same manufacturer as the panniers.
 
Carey, any pictures you care to share with the bags mounted?

Here's the E21 bags. 31" overall width
 

Here's with the E360 bags.  36" overall width

 

Has any one done any before and after measurements of A/F mixture, engine or header temps, or does the engine run noticeably better after doing this? My FJ09 runs so good after 2WDW reflash, I don't want to mess with anything. I suppose they shut off the AIS system, but I am not sure. My biggest concern is my spark plugs are really clean and look good, and I really would not want to make the A/F mixture any leaner by blocking off AIS system any further. 
If red Locktite is the permanent kind, those screws will never come out again. Non-permanent lock tite is plenty good enough.

A/F measurements with the AIS operational would be meaningless. The air enters the exhaust after the combustion chamber.  It's like trying to heat the inside your car while driving with the windows down.   I've ridden some bikes (not FJ's) after a remap and the AIS was still connected.  The popping on decal was noticeable, and annoying.  I'm not familiar with 2WDW's reflashing, but their work has a good reputation.  If your bike doesn't pop on decal, I'd bet your AIS was disabled.
If your bike runs well, I'd "ride more, worry less"
 

On the FJ1200's the oil level sensor could cause a similar issue, but never seemed to be a problem. It measures oil level and not oil pressure. With a slightly low oil level, the pressure was never a problem. My 1200 burned about 1/2 quart between changes. when my oil light came on, it meant I needed an oil change.
 
I doubt there's a problem with your wife's bike, just a momentary glitch with the level sensor.

Nice write up and pictures. On the FZ1 forum, several members glued a penny, with JB weld to the AIS cover to block them off. I don't see me doing this mod until I replace the spark plugs. For whatever reason, I hate removing the gas tank on my bikes.

Nice! How do you like the Givi panniers? I have, well, had, the OEM panniers but since I need to get new ones, I'm looking at options. May I ask what made you go with those instead of SW-Motech, Touratech, etc.?

Your question was directed to another member, but I will give you my opinion on Givi panniers. I bought my first Givi's back in the 90's, including the hard to get wing rack for my FJ1200. These were the E360 monokey bags.  I still use them today.  They are rainproof and pretty durable.  I had one of my E360's mounted as a top case on my son's Kawi 250 when he crashed.  The top case acted like a frame slider and prevented a lot of body damage.  I had to replace the reflective plastic "ring" and smoothed out a few scrapes on the bag, but it still works fine.   Since then, I have picked up a set of  E21 side bags and a 55 liter top case.   I have all 5 bags keyed alike.  I typically use the E21's for commuting and the 360's for trips.  The 55 liter top box  gets swapped between several bikes. I can fit my laptop, in padded case, and my soft sided briefcase in the E21 bags.
The wing rack was good, but broken mounting brackets was a reported by several FJ1200 owner.  Because of this I bought SW Motech racks for my next four bikes.  The SW Motech racks are robust, but expensive.  I've never had a problem, and when not mounted, the mounting brackets are not very noticeable.
IMO, the Yamaha racks with color matched FJR bags have the best styling, but the racks look noticeable when bags aren't mounted.  Since I already had Givi bags, my only options for the FJ09 were SWMotech quick lock racks or the new Givi rapid release racks. 
I bought the Givi rapid release racks because they looked slightly less noticeable when not mounted compared to SW Motech, and they were $100 cheaper.  I still have the SW Motech racks from my 1050 Tiger, and briefly thought about altering them to fit my FJ 09, but then I realized don't have a welder and can't weld
 

This reminds me of a saying I heard years ago. There are bold riders, and there are old riders, but there are no old bold riders. I used to wheelie when I was younger, nothing special, but now I consider myself an old rider and don't want to risk an accident.

 
I've ridden on a lot of plugged tires and never one failure.

...I haven't experienced a tire puncture... the true test of my chickenness is yet to come.  I've experienced a few flat tires from punctures, and none were catastrophic. The tire lost air gradually. The few occasions I used plugs, for a few hundred or a few thousand miles, I couldn't tell the difference. Having said that, what is the price of peace of mind?  I can't argue with somebody that chooses to replace a tire immediately.
 

Matt can probably add more information, but I'm only aware of remote preload on three shocks, Ohlins, Cogent and Nitron.

Anyone else from the peanut gallery?

OK, I'll bite.   None of the dirt bikes I've owned in the past 50 years had alignment pins. So changing bars didn't matter.  On the many street bikes I've owned and replaced handlebars, I've cut the alignment pins and everything worked OK. On the few times I tried to keep the alignment pins with a bar swap, the control alignment was not to my liking with the new bars, so I ended up cutting the pins anyway.
You can't say keeping the pins will cause a problem, but my experience is cutting the pins hasn't been a problem.
 

***UPDATE*** I was FINALLY able to get the shock installed... whew, what a pain in the A$$. 2.5 hours and a lot of skin removed from my knuckles getting the shock into the top mount.
FWIW, when installing the shock, the ONLY way I could get it to fit was to install the rear bolt first then fiddle with the front. I spent forever initially getting the front mounted, only to find that when it is static, the linkage doesn't raise enough to fit the rear mount bolt, not even close.
I wish I cold meet the engineer who designed this bike and ask why everything fits in a puzzle-like manner, then smack him upside the head.

Congrats.  If you think that was hard, try fitting as ZX6 shock with the reservoir at the upper shock mount.  It's a tight fit, but it goes in. The best part is that you did this yourself

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but after reading through this and inspecting the bike for almost 30 minutes now, I cant understand how to remove one single bolt. I can access the lower dog bone nut, but there is zero clearance to get the bolt out. I cant access either side of the upper mount at all, both sides are obstructed by wiring and hoses that do not budge out of the way. And don't get me started on the lower shock mount, unless you have a 2" long wrench with zero leverage, there is zero access. I'm not even sure how they possibly assembled this bike. On my FZ1 I could remove and replace the shock in about 15 minutes. After wrenching on bikes for over 40 years and doing almost all of my own maintenance, I am thoroughly stumped with this bike.

The lower shock bolt was a pita, but I got mine out using the assortment of wrenches I had. I ended up using a both a box end and an open end. I could only get only get the nit to turn a very small amount, and worked from both the nut side (left) and the bolt head side (right).  Installation went a lot smoother than removal. For the top shock bolt, I came in from the side through the frame as the others, but I had the benefit that my gas tank was removed to install some electrical accessories.