dbeau

Hey friends. I installed handlebar risers a couple years ago and had to rearrange the cables to make it work. Im returning to stock and I'd like to put everything back the way it was but i can't remember where exactly things go.

Would someone be so kind as to take a few photos of the handlebar area and how the cables/wires are routed.

Thank you in advance. 

If you take it to a paint store like Benjamin Moore or PPG they can scan the color and make a matching paint. They also sell a little spray bottle that basically turns your own paint into an spray paint can. 

Automotive stores sell pre-made tough up paint you could try to match it closely and go that route. 

When i removed my forks I got a few small scratches but nothing that bad. I guess you just have to go slow and gently pull the tubes out of the triple. My forks are gold though so maybe it just looks worse on the blue.

17/43 uses same size chain as stock -- 110 links

I put 17/43 sprockets on mine this last time around because my commute is mostly highway 80-90 mph and I wanted to drop cruising rpms. 

The 17t front sprocket barely fits. You definitely have to squeeze it in there and I'm pretty sure afterwards the chain rollers rub against the rubber piece in front of it but I don't think thats a problem. It'll probably just wear it away a little bit and be all good. Also, the rubber/plastic chain guide thing that sits on top of the swing arm gets worn into a little bit but again no big deal. Going on several hundred miles with this setup and no issues.

As for performance, the bike is WAY more tame. It pretty much takes all the hooligan out of the bike but its still fast. You can still bring the front wheel up in first but you have to roll off and hammer back on.

While in theory top speed is increased the bike just doesn't have enough power to go much past 130 even with stock gearing. Probably a lot to do with wind resistance.

Check out 

and you can play with different gearings and see how the RPMs change and stuff. 

Eh, I just leave a little extra slack before tightening the axle. Works for me.

I didn't measure how much but I noticed early on that the chain tightens considerably after torquing the axle nut. So yes, I agree with you 

I don't know if I'll ever get over that the GT came out like 6 months after I got my 2017. Cruise control is the big one that burns me up. Thanks for your thoughts though.👍

On my 2017 TCS 1 allows power wheelies just fine. If you are very smooth with it you can clutch up a wheelie but most often the TCS will knock it down. 

TCS 2, on the other hand, is pretty much zero-tolerance on fun.

I leave it on 1 only because I can't be bothered to turn it off every time I start the bike and like I said, TCS 1 still allows plenty of fun.

There is a tab under the painted plastic piece that it appears you missed not related to the black plastic piece

5 hours ago, Jordan Denmark said:

Great insight. I will report back once I get the new shoes. For reference, when I was looking at the calipers at speed, I was just glancing down the fork through the fairing, not like keeling over the outside of the bike Rossi style to take a look...in case anyone was wondering.

haha well I tried both methods on my way home yesterday to get a good look at the calipers and neither allowed me to decide whether your situation sounds abnormal or not. 

By that I mean my calipers were vibrating to a degree that seems similar to a electric sander but I don't necessarily think that is abnormal. 

Anyone commuting on those 495/95 Express lanes? It's a bit like Nascar so not for the timid but it sure is nice cutting my commute time in half. 

Welcome neighbor

I can't say I've ever looked at the front caliper while going 90mph or at least if I did nothing grabbed my attention. I see cruising speeds of 90mph pretty much every day on the express lanes in Woodbridge going to/from work and the bike is definitely more "buzzy" around 90mph but nothing i would call abnormal. 

I'll have to look down at my caliper this afternoon and see if it looks like it's vibrating. Do you have the original tires? They suck. Mine were cupped so bad before they got replaced that even with upgraded suspension it would make the front end do weird things.

5 hours ago, clint said:

I just replaced the chain and sprockets on my 2015 FJ-09. Sprocket Center had no damped front sprocket in stock, so I went with a JT 16/45 steel combination with DID 525-VX chain. Although super smooth, the undamped front sprocket has a siren sound that has NOT gone away after 700 miles, so I'll be replacing that with an OEM damped sprocket later this week. 

Are you talking about that 4k-ish rpm whistle the bike makes? If so I thought that was the engine.

I just replaced my sprockets/chain too. No dampner Superlite sprockets (17/43) and DID 525vx. I noticed no difference in sound but it's way smoother maybe just because my last chain was shot and had many kinks.

2 hours ago, edgarjessop12 said:

UMMMMMMMMMM........................ unless it is raining why have you got TC2 on ?????  and with that milage you must ride very law 

abiding. As TC makes the bike use more fuel.  I never use it unless it is raining or sometimes TC1 with a pillion on.  

How does Traction Control make the bike use more fuel?

Stock is 16/45 and 110 links. 

Caught a plastic bag on my headers this morning. Not a fan of that smell.

1 hour ago, brewhaha said:

for anyone interested. The Ognibene products from Sprocket Center, both front and back have been on back-order for a very long time. I ordered mine about 2 months ago. Finally had to call them and get them to send the non-dampened ones. They kept saying they will be here "in a week or 2", but realistically I don't think they know when they'll get their next shipment.

They offer a JT front sprocket with rubber dampner. And cheaper too

Get the RAM Quick Grip. It has movable pins so you can position them or omit them if they are hitting buttons on the phone...

I have a Corbin on my 2017 FJ-09. I will say it does, like you say, push you further back from the bars and it's higher than the stock seat so it is going to force you into a more sporty riding position. 

That is my only gripe with it. It is comfortable and looks great but while it makes your butt feel better it makes your back/wrists ache more. I think if you were to put some handlebar risers on the bike it would be a good combination. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get handlebar risers to work because the cables aren't long enough. Others have been successful though.

According to the service manual it is basically pointless to sync the throttle bodies without first checking valve clearance which is just way too much work. It's also weird that they suggest valves checked at 26K miles but want the TB's checked every 4K given that you're supposed to be sure the valves are good before doing the TB's....

However, I'm making the assumption that "Fuel Injection / Adjust Synchronization" is referring to the Throttle bodies. Otherwise there is no specific mention of a service interval for "Syncing Throttle Bodies".

I guess it all really depends on how you translate "Tip" lol. 

Haven't logged on in a while but it's good to see this is still helping people. 

I can't figure out how to edit the original post but I should have noted that the colors on the OBDII pinout picture are not universal. The important part is the pin numbers, not the colors. You still have to figure out what color wire goes to the right pin. However, It looks like @thunderbird figured it out at least for the Corsa Technic one OBDII plug.

I'll add that to the OP if I can figure out how.

On 5/19/2019 at 6:17 AM, Dave76 said:

 

 

Easy lol

Miles and Celsius? What is this madness?

Was looking for new chain/sprockets and came across this snippet....

"The rubber profile applied on both sides guarantees noise reduction, which is at least 2 db more than conventional kits, thereby extending transmission life."

-

Not sure how noise reduction translates into extended transmission life but thought it was interesting nonetheless.

Just got the cable and connectors, code reader coming this week. Figured I would hook up the cables as listed here and at Corsa Technic according to the color codes listed. Both pictures here and at Corsa for the cable I received are not even close to those labeled. A quick test with my multi meter found the proper colors associated with the hook up chart. If you do get this cable you may want to check the port/color chart and test. Just some info.