jonno12345

Thanks, it's seems to sound different to what I remember now, like a creak at the bottom of the travel. I'm also wondering if I have the wrong spring rate, the supplied springs had 7.8 printed on them I believe and they seem quite soft (I'm around 78kg). I cant work out if I'm running them on max or minimum preload either, I'm guessing clockwise on the gold hex nuts it's to increase? If so, I think they are maxed..!

Finally got around to fitting my Andreani fork cartridges over the weekend. All went fine (except being unable to remove one retaining bolt from the bottom of the fork but a local garage with an air gun sorted that!). I have yet to ride it, but just tested them by sitting on the bike, full front brake on and pushing down on the front. I'm now getting a lot more swishing/wooshing than I ever did with the stock cartridges, but I don't mind that so much. What I'm a bit more concerned about is that, at the bottom of their travel, I seem to be getting a bit of a knock sound, almost like something hitting plastic? I'm fairly confident its within one of the forks, although I can't isolate which one.

 

I'm using a 2.5w oil in the compression leg and 5w in the rebound, incase that could be related. I also made a 125mm airgap from the top, but I think I may have made a mistake and did it from the top of the silver 'inner' tube, instead of the top of the golden tube, which maybe added another 10+mm or so. Could it be a lack of (or too thin) oil? Or have I put something together wrong? Or is this normal, although I'm not sure it should be?

 

Thanks!

Would suspect the switch before the ECU, a short whilst you're off the throttle could cause it to change mode. Have you had it remapped?

Jonno - What was your last bike? The reason that I ask is the shifting on this bike is a bit "notchy" out of the box. You may want to switch with a buddy, or have someone else who has experience with this CP3 engine to see what they think - and whether it's typical or not.
 
Make sure your are setting clutch lever freeplay with the bike COLD and bars pointed straight ahead. Should be 10-15mm of lever freeplay as measured at the end of the lever.
Or, the width of a US quarter between the lever and the perch (near where the bolt for the mirror is) when it is pulled lightly.
 
Some earlier models have also been known to eat clutch cables prematurely. If yours is stretching on it's way to a failure, then it also would allow the freeplay to change frequently and require adjusting all the time as the cable stretches just before it snaps.
 
-Skip

 
 
Had a FJR1300. Can't remember feeling it was that bad really. You're right, I need to try another to tell, but I haven't really seen many of these bikes around. If I try a later one it will have the assist and slipper clutch so probably not a great test either.
 
I suspect it isn't really a major fault with mine, as said, it runs fine it's just not smooth. I'll double check the clutch cable that way, I'm using the latest revision but will have a go, thanks.

There was also a shifter shaft recall on some of the early models of FJ, MT, etc.... Have you verified that your recall has been completed or that it is outside of the range of affected VINs.

Just took a look, seems to be outside of the range of my VIN. Shame it's not that easy !

hmmm... it may have an issue with the shift assembly internally rather than externally... the shift arm that roates the drum could be broken... clutch plate stack up may be outta spec, notches on the clutch plate basket... 
it sounds like you have done all the things you could do externally by trying different shift speeds, removing foot after each shift, lubing pivot points, etc which leads me to think the problem may be internally...

That's the fear..! I hoped a few people would come back and say 'they are all like that, don't worry' but that's not been quite so forthcoming. Maybe I'll take it to a shop where they have more experience in it and see what they think. It shifts successfully, it's just my concern that somethings damaged (or being damaged) and might shorten the life of something serious.

Give the 7100 a try. I noticed smoother shifts coming from the 5100. What weight are you using? Experiences vary on this subject, but something to try.

Annoyingly there was a deal on the oil when I bought it so I bought enough for the next service too... That said, I might just try a different one to see if it helps. It's 10w40.

...also check that the clutch actuator arm is correctly seated on the splined shaft, i.e. when the clutch is at rest, the dot on the arm is aligned with arrow on clutch cover. One tooth out and you could have disengagement issues.

Checked this one today, the dot is exactly on the arrow, so not that one I don't think. I'll double check the lever free play, but it feels like the clutch engages and disengages correctly.

On centerstand.  
Try adjusting the shifter lever.. a lot of complaints about shifting issues have been solved by adjusting the lever to allow full range of motion of the lever. Many people were unknowingly keeping pressure on the lever between shifts thus not allowing the lever to "reset" between shifts.
 
Usually related to missing shifts but it would be an easy place to start. Along with verifying that the clutch cable has the appropriate slack on both ends.

I'll give it a go, but I'm confident I'm using the lever to max travel. I've tried doing shifts quicker, slower, completely removing my foot from the peg each time, pivoting my foot, pulling it up and stamping down... It's just like it catches something in between the gears.

I find the shifts smoother with the chain set much more loose than the manual calls for.. 1-1.5 inches of free play. 
Many people have described the FJ/MT-09's gearbox as "clunky" doesn't bother me though. I have a '15 as well.

Is that free play on the centre stand or whilst on the bike? I've definitely gone looser than the manual says, that sounds insanely tight at 0.2" to 0.6". 
I guess it's not a serious problem, if it's normal, I just want to be sure mine isn't a sign of an issue. Sometimes I get two clicks in a single gear change (especially between 2-3), almost like it clicks through a 'neutral' there. It always goes in, never jumps out, just doesn't feel very positive at times.

Unfortunately I don't know of anyone else with a mt-09 tracer to establish if this is just my bike, or something everyone has, but I am finding my gear changes a bit notchy at times. I can't quite work out whether it's much different when warmed up, but I'm veering towards slightly worse.
 
Most notably between 2-3, 3-4 and 4-5, both up and down shifts can be an issue. It's almost like halfway between the gear shift, it catches on something. It doesn't grind or anything, but it doesn't smoothly engage, and so many people talk about how smooth they find their shifts. 2015 Tracer 900 (UK, same as the FJ-09). I've tried tightening the chain as much as I'm comfortable with. Using Motul 5000 semi-synthetic oil, the revised clutch cable (fitted myself and I don't think there's much I could have got wrong with this..?).
 
Doesn't seem to matter how quick or pronounced I make my shifts, how long I hold the clutch in, whether I try and give the engine some revs before shifting or not. And it's not every shift, but probably about 10-20% of them.
 
Any ideas? Some adjustment I've missed? A dodgy box? Or just something they do that I can't find anybody talking about?

I've been running 87 Octane E10 since new.  I tried 91 Octane E10 and couldn't detect any change in performance or mileage so I went back to 87 for the price. 
We FINALLY got a station more-or-less in my area (25 miles away) that's stocking non-ethanol 90 Octane gas.  Fairly significant price premium ($3.319 vs $2.849) but I wanted to try it just for giggles.
 
My seat-of-the-pants dynamometer says "Horry Sheet!"
 
Some of this is explained by the fact that I spent the previous hour or two donking around the back roads in "B" mode, gawping at the purdy leaves.  After filling up, I left it in "A" mode.  But, subjectively, even allowing for the mode change, it sure seems like it pulls harder, revs cleaner and has noticeably less "burbling" at idle.
 
Has anyone else done a comparison?

I get that feeling simply from going from B to A mode... When I first read about the differences I thought 'Meh, how different can it really be'... Yeah it's pretty rapid in A..! 
That said, I don't know if the fuel would make that notable a difference or not, in the UK we get a minimum 95 on our 'standard' petrol, and the 'premium' is 97/98. I've never tried premium in it though...

Do the pre-2017 bikes still have this port? I know you have a diag menu on the dash, but is it OBD2 compatible too?

I've gone through all obvious stuff. Even took off the tps it rotates smoothly shows even change in resistance. Throttle cables and tube assembly are fine. When the rpm "stays up" I can click onto neutral and the rpm instantly drops to normal

If you have a bike before 2017 it might be worth checking this if you haven't already, if nothing else just to see the outputs on the diag screen: 
 
https://fj-09.org/thread/5045/accelerator-position-sensor-aps-adjustment

Without a physical throttle cable, I would look into sensors and smooth operation - especially closing - of the throttle plates. 

The FJ/FZ/XSR/MT/Tracer etc. do indeed have throttle cables, they attach to a sensor which opens the throttle bodies.  
If if you are sure there are no air leaks, I would look for something sticking or binding, turn the bars side to side, check that the throttle tube opens and closes fully without sticking. Make sure isn’t dragging on the bar end. 
 
My throttle wasnt sticking but felt sluggish, I removed the throttle tube off the bar and found grey gunk all over the bar. I cleaned the bar and throttle tube and the throttle twists much easier now. 

Why does it do that anyway..? I was expecting to find all the electronics in the grip, but no, cables practically down to the engine... Just so they don't have to make new parts or something?

I have a slightly different issue - mine feels okay mostly, but almost like there's a small 'lag' if I am trying to gently rev up? Like the first few degrees of throttle movement don't really pull, but I can tell that the engine is doing *something* (and I've checked in diag and the numbers increment as normal, and I've done the APS adjustment). Then it'll lurch a little as I open the throttle slightly more. Is this normal? The only thing I can slightly think of is I might have slightly pinched one of the little caps that go on the vacuum ports when I did a throttle body sync, which may be letting some air through... Could it be that, or just a remap would help?

Monkeying with the APS/TPS adjustment could cause this as well.  
Are you in STD mode awhile riding? Stock ecm or flashed? How many miles? Replaced the chain yet? What tension are you running? Any trouble codes? Fuel fresh?
 
-Skip

 
 
STD mode, stock, 7.5k, no, around 1 inch, no faults, fresh fuel. Aps I adjusted (from memory, might be other way around!) to be 12 - 97 in diag 14 and 13 - 97 in 15.

I have a slightly different issue - mine feels okay mostly, but almost like there's a small 'lag' if I am trying to gently rev up? Like the first few degrees of throttle movement don't really pull, but I can tell that the engine is doing *something* (and I've checked in diag and the numbers increment as normal, and I've done the APS adjustment). Then it'll lurch a little as I open the throttle slightly more. Is this normal? The only thing I can slightly think of is I might have slightly pinched one of the little caps that go on the vacuum ports when I did a throttle body sync, which may be letting some air through... Could it be that, or just a remap would help?

Hi 
Picked up  my new Tracer 900 GT last Sunday. Really loving it, but struggling a bit with the seat height. 
 
At 5ft6in I’d ordered the low seat, but it really doesn’t feel much lower than the standard seat. Certainly not the advertised 30mm. 
 
Has anyone else tried the low seat and like me, haven’t noticed much difference from the standard?
 
I’m reluctant to get the lowering kit, as I did this with my previous FZ1S, and it really seemed to affect the handling. 
 
Ta
 
Vic
 

 
 
Silly question perhaps, but are you using it in the lowest position? I assume the new versions still have the ability to choose a height!